I am renovating my house and changing all inlet water pipings.

Initial thought was all using poly pipe. My contractor now HIGHLY recommend to use ABS (blue). I have open a topic yesterday and just found this.

According to him, termites will attack poly pipe, that happended to his house (he sounded very real) but not ABS. Any comment? This is my first time hearing this "fact"

I asked a sample blue pipe from him and found that it is not of BBB nor PALING, thinking a way to turn down his "suggestion"...

Ya, termites attack poly pipe, asked a few friends and no one heard of it. Anyhow, this will not be the draw back to choose poly material.

I prefer poly pipe simply because it is flexible (than rigid abs), bend-able (to certain extend) and most importantly it does not rely on gum to seal but thread. I think above reasons make me feel more comfortable to conceal it in the wall, since wall/ground does "move a little bit" from time to time. Is my "theory" correct? Should i "hold tight" on these points and insist using poly pipe for my house?

On the other hands, i hope to copy ozak's way in doing backup supply for kitchen, i.e. bypassing from tank to tank's inlet. But can someone tell me how is the piping size like should be for the whole house?

@Ozak: You did mentioned "the check valve and the rest of the pipe are 1 1/2". This means ALL FOR THE BYPASS SYSTEM, is it? And the check valve near meter should be 3/4" (follow main)?

So far after reading from page 1, what i could understand is: The main (meter-tank) should be 3/4", then tank to kitchen and baths should be 1/2". If higher flow is desired for bath, then tank to kitchen use 1/2" but use 3/4" or 1" for bath. Someone please advise if I got the info correct.

thank you for the drawings.

1. According to my plumber, my house reno but never involve front portion of the house, i.e. living hall. Therefore, i have to lay main straight to tank. Correct?

2. He will use poly 1" pipe. for above.

3. From main (on the roof, before tank), branch out to kitchen and bathrooms (ya, all 3 bathrooms). He will install a check valve here so that when no water from main, water from tank flow to kitchen and bath. Correct? Should add a check valve at main after meter/outdoor filter to protect it from back flow?

4. He proposed to use blue ABS 1" though my initial plan was using poly 1/2". I like to have that 1" pipe for all kitchen and bathroom cause i hope to get higher water flow. But material wise...

@ozak: from your reply, can see you prefer pvc over abs. any particular reason? To me they are just the same. Both rely on glue for sealing, rigid etc. For household use, i seriously do not think there will be a need to prevent acid or chemical attacks. So till now, my question is unanswered.

5. Now i re-think, during water cut only we will use tank water. This means water that we use that time is "not fresh". So we treat it as "back up/emergency use for kitchen only"?

too much questions but still hope you guys would advise

@ozak: i yet to show my plumber my sketch (= your drawings with minor modifications ).

In your drawings, there are 3 independent outlets from tank to bathrooms. what if i need to install a pump after tank to bathrooms? Can i straight tap out 1" pipe from tank to pump then, pump outlet 1" branch to 3 nos 3/4" or 1/2" till bathrooms? means, 3 bathrooms having common inlet pipe, is this ok?

@ozak: just saw your post in another thread, you are installing a pump into your current installation.
Actually for my case, I yet to move into my new house, not sure if the water pressure is low or not. After moved in, if cannot accept the water pressure only will add on pump. How should i lay my piping after tank, to "prepare for future pump installation"? From tank branch out 3 pipes to bathrooms now? Or, from tank branch out 1no 1" pipe then only split to 3 nos 3/4" pipe for 3 bathrooms? Mean, before install pump, all bathrooms sharing common inlet. If so, my bathrooms' water pressure without pump will sure low!??

So, don't "prepare for pump" now, isit? When need pump only ask installer to modify piping on the roof?

yes, i was told by my plumber. He discourage i use poly pipe for whole house piping... no one heard of it before though.

by using these rule, i "design" my poly pipes this way:

(on the roof) branch 1" pipe for about 2 ft (long enough?) c/w 2nos. stop cock, as spare/preparation for future pump installation.
Then, branch to 3 nos. 1". Reduce to 1/2" once "turn down" to bathrooms.

( conceal in bathrooms) all 1/2"

Will you guys be so kind to comment?

Something wrong with existing pipelines. Open tap but no water, plumber said "masuk angin". So, can't know how good the pressure is now.
Then i opt to re-do pipelines, using poly pipe. Since modify pipeline in future when installing a pump cost $$ as need to engage plumber again, i hope to reduce that cost and hassle...

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Added on April 24, 2012, 9:04 amSomething wrong with existing pipelines. Open tap but no water, plumber said "masuk angin". So, can't know how good the pressure is now.
Then i opt to re-do pipelines, using poly pipe. Since modify pipeline in future when installing a pump cost $$ as need to engage plumber again, i hope to reduce that cost and hassle...

This post has been edited by solame: Apr 24 2012, 09:04 AM

Thanks a lot. This is simple. I am yet to make up my mind if to install a pump.

Feasibility study:
double storey c/w 3baths. Will frequently use 1st floor's bath only. GF's toilet will be for visitor. So, will temporary install 1no water heater (with pump) for the house.
Price difference for water heater with and without pump is around RM 250.
To buy and install a Grundfos pump now RM 1.5k.
=>Not feasible to install pump.

But if i "gamble", combine tomjason and ozak's piping map, MAY BE i do not need to install a pump at all.
may be... still 15 16...

yes, same. but yours c/w check valve & by pass line
still, what is the "at least" height for tank-1st flr?

good one bro
just checked, beam-beam height is about 10 ft. 0.07 bar difference with yours. Should be bearable. Still, decision on my hand now
if install pump 3 or 5 years later, that time piping connections may be "aged" and lagi cannot tahan pressure surges? depends on workmanship today, is it?

@ozak: what kind of check valve you using? Brass swing check valve? Checked with hardware shop, 1" approx. RM20+ per pc. not expensive. "i” brand. can't find other brand. any recommendations?

bought YORK, itap's. cannot see any other choice