Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

Outline · [ Standard ] · Linear+

 Using lower-viscosity engine-oil in old engine, How to prevent white/blue smoke issue?

views
     
Zot
post Feb 26 2016, 10:41 AM

Look at all my stars!!
*******
Senior Member
7,592 posts

Joined: Mar 2014
QUOTE(junfu1988 @ Feb 6 2015, 05:12 PM)
im having engine rod knocking noise and foreman say use thicker engine oil will solve that... is that true?
*
I concur with francor. There are few causes of knocking

http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonation/detonation.html
TOMEI-R
post Feb 26 2016, 10:50 AM

Extraordinaire
*********
All Stars
23,591 posts

Joined: Mar 2007
From: Kuala Lumpur


QUOTE(frankor @ Feb 26 2016, 10:31 AM)
May I know what car you are driving?

If use Petron Blaze Ron 95 it will reduce knocking tremendously.

On the other hand if your car is using old Japanese engine (80s to 90s JDM type) than you may wish to give a try to Caltex Techron Ron 95.

If either Petron Blaze Ron 95 and Caltex Techron Ron 95 cannot solve your knocking problem then you may need to use Ron 97 petrol.

I believe (maybe I am wrong) it has nothing to do with thinner or thicker engine oil.

I owned 2 modded cars one is Satria with Mivec engine and the other Accord with H22A engine which both are high compression engine and it was suppose to  to use higher Ron petrol eg Ron 97.

My Satria is currently filled with  Caltex Techron Ron 95 and the engine oil is Hi-Rev 15W-50 (Semi Synthetic) so far so good no knocking but it need to change engine oil at 4,000 km interval.

As for the Honda is currently filled with Petron Blaze Ron 95 and the engine oil is Qmax 5W-50 (Fully Synthetic) so far there is no knocking and the engine oil will never dry-up or evaporate therefore I only change the  oil at 8,000 km interval.

Pls see file attachment of the pics of the engine oils that I am using for my Satria and Honda.
thumbup.gif
*
I concur to that. We have to admit it, for high compression engines like the honda B, H, F and K series, you would definately feel the difference on using 97 Ron engines. Lesser so for non performance cars. The feel would be different in terms of knocking (as discussed), a more smooter and quieter engine and better performance. My friends on the K series type R engines swear by Caltex Ron95. They said that the Caltex 95 is the best alternative when there is no Ron97. I am a ardent supporter of Shell fuel but whenever I pumped Shell Fuelsave 95 on my SSS, the engine knocks. So after recommendation of my friends, I tried fuelling up with Caltex 95 and it does make a lot of difference. There is still knocking, but much much lesser compared to Shell 95. Only issue is there are not many Caltex stations to begin with. I have not tried Petron yet. Maybe I should try once and see if there is any difference.
frankor
post Feb 26 2016, 02:47 PM

New Member
*
Junior Member
38 posts

Joined: Oct 2010


QUOTE(TOMEI-R @ Feb 26 2016, 10:50 AM)
I concur to that. We have to admit it, for high compression engines like the honda B, H, F and K series, you would definately feel the difference on using 97 Ron engines. Lesser so for non performance cars. The feel would be different in terms of knocking (as discussed), a more smooter and quieter engine and better performance. My friends on the K series type R engines swear by Caltex Ron95. They said that the Caltex 95 is the best alternative when there is no Ron97. I am a ardent supporter of Shell fuel but whenever I pumped Shell Fuelsave 95 on my SSS, the engine knocks. So after recommendation of my friends, I tried fuelling up with Caltex 95 and it does make a lot of difference. There is still knocking, but much much lesser compared to Shell 95. Only issue is there are not many Caltex stations to begin with. I have not tried Petron yet. Maybe I should try once and see if there is any difference.
*
If you wish to pump Caltex Ron 95 (by using credit card) pls avoid Caltex (LDP) heading to Sungai Buloh/Kepong after the toll because there is a word "ofline" appeared in the receipt of the credit card transaction.

I wonder whether the points earned via Caltex Journey card will be recorded or accounted.

The problem with Caltex Journey card it will not shows the total points you earned after each pump.

If any of the forumer here is attached to Caltex pls bring this issue up to the Management.

icon_question.gif
junfu1988
post Feb 26 2016, 05:17 PM

Casual
***
Junior Member
366 posts

Joined: Dec 2007
QUOTE(frankor @ Feb 26 2016, 10:31 AM)
May I know what car you are driving?

If use Petron Blaze Ron 95 it will reduce knocking tremendously.

On the other hand if your car is using old Japanese engine (80s to 90s JDM type) than you may wish to give a try to Caltex Techron Ron 95.

If either Petron Blaze Ron 95 and Caltex Techron Ron 95 cannot solve your knocking problem then you may need to use Ron 97 petrol.

I believe (maybe I am wrong) it has nothing to do with thinner or thicker engine oil.

I owned 2 modded cars one is Satria with Mivec engine and the other Accord with H22A engine which both are high compression engine and it was suppose to  to use higher Ron petrol eg Ron 97.

My Satria is currently filled with  Caltex Techron Ron 95 and the engine oil is Hi-Rev 15W-50 (Semi Synthetic) so far so good no knocking but it need to change engine oil at 4,000 km interval.

As for the Honda is currently filled with Petron Blaze Ron 95 and the engine oil is Qmax 5W-50 (Fully Synthetic) so far there is no knocking and the engine oil will never dry-up or evaporate therefore I only change the  oil at 8,000 km interval.

Pls see file attachment of the pics of the engine oils that I am using for my Satria and Honda.
thumbup.gif
*
Im driving an old toyota altis 06. the knocking is more like low pitch dek,dek,dek,dek that the the ratio increase due to heavier pedal. i assume it call engine whining sound.
TOMEI-R
post Feb 26 2016, 07:01 PM

Extraordinaire
*********
All Stars
23,591 posts

Joined: Mar 2007
From: Kuala Lumpur


QUOTE(junfu1988 @ Feb 26 2016, 05:17 PM)
Im driving an old toyota altis 06. the knocking is more like low pitch dek,dek,dek,dek that the the ratio increase due to heavier pedal. i assume it call engine whining sound.
*
Its called engine knocking or engine pinking. nod.gif
TOMEI-R
post Feb 26 2016, 07:02 PM

Extraordinaire
*********
All Stars
23,591 posts

Joined: Mar 2007
From: Kuala Lumpur


QUOTE(frankor @ Feb 26 2016, 02:47 PM)
If you wish to pump Caltex Ron 95 (by using credit card) pls avoid Caltex (LDP) heading to Sungai Buloh/Kepong after the toll because there is a word "ofline" appeared in the receipt of the credit card transaction.

I wonder whether the points earned via Caltex Journey card will be recorded or accounted.

The problem with Caltex Journey card it will not shows the total points you earned after each pump.

If any of the forumer here is attached to Caltex pls bring this issue up to the Management.

icon_question.gif
*
QUOTE(junfu1988 @ Feb 26 2016, 05:17 PM)
Im driving an old toyota altis 06. the knocking is more like low pitch dek,dek,dek,dek that the the ratio increase due to heavier pedal. i assume it call engine whining sound.
*
Im more worried about the fuel quality as different stations have different fuel qualities. You know what Im trying to say. whistling.gif
frankor
post Feb 27 2016, 12:35 PM

New Member
*
Junior Member
38 posts

Joined: Oct 2010


QUOTE(junfu1988 @ Feb 26 2016, 05:17 PM)
Im driving an old toyota altis 06. the knocking is more like low pitch dek,dek,dek,dek that the the ratio increase due to heavier pedal. i assume it call engine whining sound.
*
I may be wrong and it look like the sound is not engine knocking or pinging but is either the ignition coil is mal-functioning or you are using the wrong spark plugs.

thumbup.gif

khairilyazit
post Feb 27 2016, 06:00 PM

Casual
***
Junior Member
405 posts

Joined: Sep 2010
From: Papar, Sabah


QUOTE(kEITh_22b @ Feb 2 2012, 04:13 AM)
I'm not sure, but all of this is really quite confusing to me...

But generally, I always noticed that 20W - 50 is always the (cheaper) "mineral" based engine-oil that is always mentioned to be (too thick) and highly-recommended to be used in older car engines... hmm.gif

0W - 50 on the other hand is always the (more expensive) "fully-synthetic" engine-oil that is only recommended to be used in brand-new car engines... (because it is too thin to be used in older car engines...)

How true is that?

In addition, I have also never ever came across a 20W - 50 engine-oil that is "fully-synthetic" before... (Why isn't there any out there?)
And I have also never ever came across a 0W - 50 " engine-oil that is "mineral" based before... (Why is that so?)

I really don't know, but going for a lower second number such as the xW - 30 (like you said) will mean that my engine will have lesser protection at higher-temperatures..., as well as the engine-oil will also "break-down" faster and hence; need to be replaced faster (because of lower endurance/resilience to heat)... (Isn't it?)

But based on your information/theory; the 0W - 50 grade will be one heck of a super "thick" engine-oil isn't it? (I thought that the racing industry already no longer uses thick/super-thick engine-oils for their race vehicle's engines anymore... hmm.gif ) - I was informed that now a days all racing vehicles are using much thinner fully-synthetic based engine-oils (for a higher-performance), such as the 0W - 50/0W - 60 grade, that comes with the same high resistance/endurance to heat & sheer at high temperatures...
For example;

According to my understanding, an engine-oil with a grade of 0W -50 means that this particular oil is thin (super-thin), it flows very easily, but yet it also has the incredibly high resistance to heat & sheer at higher-temperatures; it will not break down easily, and is very ideal to be used in brand new high-performance racing engines...

This is what I understand, though I am still looking forward to the correct answer/information (if mine is really incorrect). I'm also definitely in to learn more. icon_rolleyes.gif
*
The Petronas Syntium 1000 is a Fully Synthetic 15w50 engine oil.
frankor
post Mar 1 2016, 05:00 PM

New Member
*
Junior Member
38 posts

Joined: Oct 2010


QUOTE(khairilyazit @ Feb 27 2016, 06:00 PM)
The Petronas Syntium 1000 is a Fully Synthetic 15w50 engine oil.
*
I wish to share about Petronas Syntium 1000 Fully-Synthetic (15W-50) and Petronas newer engine oil Syntium 300 Cool Tech (5W-40).

I have a Suprima (apart from Satria and Accord) and every morning I will warm up the engine until the temprature reaches 3 levels/bars in the speedometer before I drive the car.

Surprisingly when I used Syntium 1000 (15W-50) the car will reached 3 bars quicker as compared to Syntium 3000 (5W-40).

In short, my view (maybe I am wrong) that Syntium 3000 can take better heat than Syntium 1000.


cool2.gif

khairilyazit
post Mar 1 2016, 05:20 PM

Casual
***
Junior Member
405 posts

Joined: Sep 2010
From: Papar, Sabah


QUOTE(frankor @ Mar 1 2016, 05:00 PM)
I wish to share about Petronas Syntium 1000 Fully-Synthetic (15W-50) and  Petronas newer engine oil Syntium 300 Cool Tech (5W-40).

I have a Suprima (apart from Satria and Accord) and every morning I will warm up the engine until the temprature reaches 3 levels/bars in the speedometer before I drive the car.

Surprisingly when I used Syntium 1000 (15W-50) the car will  reached 3 bars quicker as compared to Syntium 3000 (5W-40).

In short, my view (maybe I am wrong) that Syntium 3000 can take better heat than Syntium 1000.
cool2.gif
*
Welcome to the club man..
Suprima owner here too..

Never bothered to warmup the engine...
Only drove slowly until it warms up on its own, then only i gun it..

The Syntium 1000 is more viscous/pekat at the same temp..

This post has been edited by khairilyazit: Mar 1 2016, 05:20 PM
chemistry
post Mar 1 2016, 08:59 PM

Look at all my stars!!
*******
Senior Member
3,042 posts

Joined: Mar 2009
From: N.Sembilan


QUOTE(frankor @ Mar 1 2016, 05:00 PM)
I wish to share about Petronas Syntium 1000 Fully-Synthetic (15W-50) and  Petronas newer engine oil Syntium 300 Cool Tech (5W-40).

I have a Suprima (apart from Satria and Accord) and every morning I will warm up the engine until the temprature reaches 3 levels/bars in the speedometer before I drive the car.

Surprisingly when I used Syntium 1000 (15W-50) the car will  reached 3 bars quicker as compared to Syntium 3000 (5W-40).

In short, my view (maybe I am wrong) that Syntium 3000 can take better heat than Syntium 1000.
cool2.gif
*
15W50 eo impose more drag compared to less viscous 5w40 eo, hence temperature rise faster.
wanna be hi-tech
post Sep 26 2018, 10:49 PM

Any self respecting GEEK, certainly owns more than a single rig
******
Senior Member
1,598 posts

Joined: Jan 2010


QUOTE(kEITh_22b @ Feb 1 2012, 03:09 AM)
Hi guys,
An engine-oil change will be due for my 20 year old car engine soon;

Currently, this old engine is using the Shell 15W - 40 Mineral engine-oil - (without having any white/blue smoke problems at all).

But for this coming engine-oil change, I am planning to go for the Shell 10W - 40 Semi-Synthetic engine-oil; which has a lower-viscosity - (it will be a thinner engine-oil grade for this old engine).

I would like to put a lower-viscosity (thinner-grade) engine-oil into this old engine to improve it's fuel-efficiency & horsepower. (Correct me if I'm wrong.)

However, I do not want to see any white/blue smoke issues pouring out from this engine after filling it with the lower-viscosity engine-oil...

So the thing is, what (the name of the components/parts) can I tell the mechanic to check/change inside this old engine - (that will minimize or eliminate the possibility of the white/blue smoke issue from happening?)
Your information/advice will be highly appreciated.
*
So, did 10/40 work for your car ?

3 Pages < 1 2 3Top
 

Change to:
| Lo-Fi Version
0.0180sec    0.17    6 queries    GZIP Disabled
Time is now: 29th March 2024 - 11:39 PM