Probably someone can stickied similar things like this in front page so that many new comers can get some information on choosing a bike.

Here we go.

Question to ask yourself before plunging the sport of Mountain Biking

1. What kinda activity I want to join?
Choices
a) Ride around my taman
b) Ride to school and buy groceries
c) Join friends and go biking in some cross country tracks. e.g. offroad road for cars. e.g. Kelapa Sawit plantation area (where usually cars can come in but need to slow down)
d) Offroad with a bit of climbing, and downhill, narrow paths (cars can't come in), a bit of drop or uneven trail
e) Fast, furious downhill with jumps and extreme cornering

After choosing 1 from the above, then the next thing you need to consider...

a) Budget
b) Budget
c) Budget

Ha! Ha! Ha!

For Question 1)
If you choose a) b) or even c)
A bike ranging from RM1500 and below is acceptable. Even bike RM700 and below will still be acceptable.

For d)
Try to fork out at least RM2k and above. Preferably RM4k.
Anything less, you most probably will end up hating yourself for making harsh decision or you will change your bike/accessories the next round.

For e)
You need RM5k minimum or preferably RM20k to start. Ha! Ha!
And you need bigger balls.

Of all the above
You will still need around RM100 minimum to buy helmet, gloves, water battle or hydration bag.
Preferably spend RM300 minimum to get some quality goods.
For info, a branded helmet will cost RM200+, a branded gloves will cost RM70 and up, a branded hydration bag wll cost around RM150 and above... usually RM200 above.

If wanna join us for weekend rides or some night rides, just let us know. We will be more than glad to assist. After you get your bike and helmet that is!

If u have not been riding MTBs before this... you won't know what u will like. Seriously!
What you see and read in the internet are just professionals doing it. We might be frighten by AM/Freeride or DH videos in youtube but heck... you'd wish you can do that.

In Malaysia... this is the explanation of the term

XC - Cross Country
Recommended Location --> FRIM, around your house.
Type - Cycle up, cycle down, cycle up, cycle down. Trail condition - double track, smooth to small bumps dirt road, gravel or tarmac.
Obstacles - Human, small humps.

AM - All Mountain
Recomendation Location --> Kiara, PCP
Type - More technical Cycle up, cycle down, push up, push down. Turn here turn there, drop less than 1 foot hill. Trail condition - Single track, double track, muddy, switchbacks, rocky, slightly bigger bumps.
Obstacles - tree branches, roots, rocks, switchbacks.

FR - Freeride
No Malaysian doing this currently.

DH - DownHill
Recommendation Location --> Kiara, Bukit Cermin, PCP
Type - Push bike up. Come downhill as fast as your balls can take. Not for pussies. TRail condition - Rocky, bigger gap jumps, muddy.
Obstacles - Your balls

Adding on...

What bike to choose ...

XC Bikes - can climb better but due to headtub angle design, fork length, you will have less confidence in going downhill.
AM bikes - It is in between XC and DH. So, climbing not as good as XC but better downhill confidence. So, you are always not the best in any discipline but you will enjoy almost every trails you come across.
DH bikes - You usually push the bike uphill as it is very heavy and headtube angle very big. Although, some DHer can cycle up steep hills better than us. But when downhill, you are quite save and confident, so, in return, u can ride faster.

What's the diff in these bikes?
XC - Light. AM, Medium weight. DH - Heavy.
Durability - Usually XC and AM bike can take most of the abuse from normal bikers in Kiara or PCP or FRIM. Unless you are riding DHer style, then probably your bike's life span will reduce. Other than that, it should be ok. After all, most forumers here change their bike frame or components every few months. Ha! Ha! Ha! Only one exceptional case, every few weeks!
No chance to see the component or frame fail.

For new comers.

Question - I want to start mountain biking but I donno what bike to buy. Please advise.

Answer -

First to consider. Budget!

Budget below RM1000.00
Answer - No need ask. Just get one you think the color suits you. Heck. They are all the same.
Choose these: Nexus, Exitway, Rockbike, Lerun and even to the extend Polygon <-- these are not really mountain bikes. Ha! Ha! Ha! icon_rolleyes.gif
Budget below RM2000.00

At this price range, there are many "branded" bikes to choose from hence making us more confusing.
Common brands in Klang Valley. Merida, Fuji, Marin, Raleigh, Norco, BH, Polygon, Giant, Scott, and probably a few more.

What are the important things to look for?

1. Fork
2. rear cassette
3. breaks

1. Fork from lowest to better fork
- SR Suntour (SRS) XCT, SRS XCM, SRS XCR, Rockshox Tora, SRS Epicon.
2. Rear cassette
At this price range, it doesn't really matter but for mountain bike, ask how many "teeth" the biggest cassette has. Preferably 34T or 32T. This is very important especially for beginner.
Having 8 cassette, 7 or 9 cassette doesn't really matter as long as your biggest is biggest! He! He! He!
3. Breaks
Wihout doubt, hydraulic brakes will be better than mechanical disc breaks and better than V breaks. Just that at lower range product, they all perform almost the same.

What is not important?

1. Frame design - At this price, all frames probably made by 2 factories. Giant and Merida. Ha! Ha! And it doesn't matter.
2. Crank - Many shops will use this as a way of telling you their products better. But at this price range, it really doesn't matter
3. Handlebar - You look and you like... get it. Doesn't matter at all.
4. Seatpost - Same
5. wheelset - No difference one.
6. Tires - Preferably branded ones like Maxxis, Tioga, Nevegal, Schwabe, Panaracer. Any other brands - Same.
7. Rear Derailluer, Front Derailuer - Again, some use branded gimmick to lure u but it doesn't matter at all.

Most important is the front fork. This is the one that determine whether you ride happily or cursing home.
Invest in this.
If your budget more than 2k, use back the same as above... and look for what you want. If I were to choose, I'll make sure I get the bike with the best fork first before looking at others.

.......Low Speed Compression

Setting the low speed compression is the next step and it’s a good idea to start at full soft (about 4 clicks in) before adding clicks until you’re satisfied that the front of the bike doesn’t dive excessively when pedaling or hitting the brakes hard.

High Speed Compression

Finding the right high speed compression setting will take a bit of time riding as you need to get the speed of the fork up. The best way to check your settings is to take a drop or a square edged corner to get the shock reacting quickly. Again, I like start at about 4 clicks in and I keep adding damping until I have a controlled fork compression without the fork eating up all its travel and bottoming out (stopping abruptly in its internal bump stop). You will know you have too much high speed compression when you feel your wrists compress and an uncomfortable amount of force travels through your body on impact. .......

Got it here..