I think you want to use the plastic side of your pedal on kick pad, the felt beater will "eat" into the kick pad as time passed

Hehe thanks total damage was 9.2k not including transport, time and hardship 9k for the drums, 200 for the rug (from Ikea) which is advertised to dampen sounds, it's thick.




Thanks for the tip! I plan to also attach a piece of thin cloth to the drum pad itself. At least can tahan a bit longer then.

welcome

happy drumming, btw any idea that how much do the TD-30k cost?

so...tempting...but...no money to buy one

-Accidentally double posted-

This post has been edited by boiboi95: Mar 1 2013, 08:29 PM

TD30-K not sure, but I THINK the KV is 22-25k. Didn't even check those out, heh...

Still using the stock kits, haven't messed around with any settings yet. They sound pretty good but it'll take some tweaking to make them sound even more realistic.

BTW, does anyone have the drumless version of Eric Johnson - Manhattan?

any of you know where to get snare strips?

Hey all!

I've been talking to Kyre Drums about some custom work

Probably going to spring for a Maple 13 x 6 snare with wood hoops. I'm looking for something punchy which I can tune up high and dry, while retaining maximal sensitivity. Thoughts or suggestions?

What sizes do you guys use, and why?

Hello, drummers of LYN!

I'd just like to post on this thread to introduce to you my drummer, my brother, Paul. I had him write the essay below like it was him actually posting. He's currently in Ningbo, China and works as an English teacher.

Once he gets his drum mics and mixer, we'll start recording split screen videos and upload to YouTube. (I play guitar, by the way.)

Anyway, thanks and I hope you enjoy his post.

***

This is my drum kit.

Just a quick background: I have been drumming since I was 6, and got serious about it when Mum and Dad bought me a cheap drumkit when I was in 2nd year high. Never stopped since.

In all the times that I would drum, I would drum the "traditional" way, meaning I would cross my right hand over to the hi-hat. I would also lead all drum fills with my right hand, from left to right, like most typical people do.

It was three years ago when I thought to myself that I was not getting anywhere with my drumming. The fills, the creative process that went into playing the drums felt so stale. I was just "a drummer with a few tricks up his sleeve".

It was then that I got acquainted with Travis Orbin. I met him via a forum, and we have been keeping in touch online. I also purchased his lessons and have subscribed to his concepts and techniques exclusively.

The kit setup is called the "quasi-open stance kit". Being influenced by the great Mike Mangini, the kit is quite symmetrical, with territorial rights: split the kit into two halves, and you have a righty kit, and a lefty kit.

The cymbals on the left side are low pitched cymbals. The ones on the right are high pitched cymbals. This makes for a very musical playing environment. For example, the guitarist might churn out a "chugga chugga chugga" heavy guitar sound. I can opt to choose the left side cymbals to complement the low sound that the guitars make, OR use the right side to counterpoint what he's doing.

Being that the kit is two kits in one, I am still currently utilizing BOTH my sides of the body to lead. I play open stance, and I am able to lead with either side of the body, or any permutation that is available:

Left hand left hi-hat, right foot bass drum, right hand snare
Left hand left hi-hat, left foot bass drum, right hand snare
Right hand left hi-hat, right foot bass drum, left hand snare (traditional)
Right hand left hi-hat, left foot bass drum, left hand snare
Right hand right hi-hat, left foot bass drum, left hand snare
Right hand right hi-hat, right foot bass drum, left hand snare
Left hand right hi-hat, left foot bass drum, right hand snare (lefty traditional)
Left hand right hi-hat, right foot bass drum, right hand snare

In essence, I am training to be ambidextrous. I am naturally a right-handed person.

The toms on the sides allow me to be more creative with fills, and breaks the monotony of the "left side to right side" tom fills.

KIT SPECS:

CYMBALS: from left to right

PULSE ASIA BRILLIANT Heavy Ride 20"
PULSE DEVOTEE EXTRA Medium Crash 18"
PULSE DEVOTEE EXTRA Heavy Hi-hats 14"
16" STAGG DH China under a PAISTE 101 B8 Hi-hat top Stack Cymbal
CHANG DEVOTEE EXTRA Splash 8"
PULSE ASIA BRILLIANT Heavy Hi-hats 14"
PULSE ASIA BRILLIANT Heavy Crash 18"
CHANG TRADITIONAL CHINA 20"

DRUMS:

PDP Mainstage in Piano Black.
14x5 wooden snare
12x6 high tom
16x14 floor tom

HARDWARE:

<Pic to follow>

Pearl Eliminator Demon Drives (longboard setting, spring tension 3/4ths tight, light and power settings engaged)

Pearl DHC-300 Drop Clutches x 2
Mapex AC-90 Hi-hat Clutch
Pearl Boom Arm Holder
PEACE Universal Clamp

STICKS:

Vic Firth Ralph Hardimon SRH2 "HAMMER" Marching Sticks

SHOES:

60 Yuan walking shoes

Depends on what kind of wooden hoops.

Thick ply hoops only change the body of the drum sound (i.e. striking the centre of the head with no rim involvement) by virtue of the change in mass they bring to the party. The reason being, is they bring so little resonance of their own into the mix. Ply single flange wooden hoops with claws however are a bit different, but I assume we're talking about Yamaha style chunky hoops here? Those thick ply hoops will offer a different rimshot & cross stick sound though, although typically, quite dead.

Solid segmented or solid steambent 1 or 2 ply hoops are a different animal. Especially if made from the same wood as the shell, they add a considerable degree of voice to the sound. Essentially, they reinforce the shell fundamental. The reason being is they resonate far more readily, they're much easier to excite, despite their bulk.

Tight and Punchy? Sounds like a head and tuning thing

Since your gonna do some custom work, why not try out other woods such as Bubinga, Oak, Ash, Walnut, Purpleheart? Unless of course you like the sound of a maple one.

Remember that you should buy the drum because of the sound alone, not because it's "custom" and you'll feel all giddy about owning something with a custom label thrown onto it.

Seriously Isaac, you should check out some Guru Snares since your into the custom route. They're top notch. Watch the recording, as it's a honest audio captures - no EQ. Two overheads & kick, compared to close mic's.

HAHA. Yes, the thick wooden hoops. I actually like the sound of the wooden rim shots and cross stick tones, having used DWs with wooden hoops previously. I'm getting rounder, 60 degree bearing edges for my batter side, and sharp 45 degree cuts for my snare side, for a more focused tone.

As for the tight and punchy one, it is a head and tuning thing, but of course, the shell does make a difference. But speaking of that, I'm probably going to go for an Evans Black Chrome top over a Hazy 300. I love that combination. A 13 x 6 is deep enough for versatility, while still being able to provide a nice pop at the top.

I've considered Oak, as I was really close to buying a Mushashi, and I've used it several times before. (: But I'm looking for a slightly brighter fundamental tone. Ash would be too bright. I've considered Bubinga, but I won't get the chance to play the snare first, and I've never played a pure Bubinga snare before. The closest I've come is the Starclassic Bubinga/Birch, which sounds good.

Honestly, I'm buying a custom snare for the sound and the looks. I'll get to customize it how I want (: the design and the tone.

I am considering a couple of alternatives if it doesn't go through though, like the Ludwig Supraphonic for general all around goodness, or an acrylic Spaun, for kicks. The one I'll most likely get if I don't go for the Kyre is probably a DW Maple or a Mapex Black Panther Maple/Walnut. . HAHA.

I was actually talking more about what size of snares you guys like, and why? (:

Currently using a 14 x 5 DW birch snare. But very interested in Gavin Harrisons' Protean 12" snare drum, has a nice crack to it and playing a 12" would give a totally different feel.

How much is the Kyre snare gonna set you back?

This post has been edited by Subber: Mar 7 2013, 10:54 AM

Nice nice, that's a working man's kit!
I'll always get a 14x6.5" because I started with this size so I want to keep at least one variable constant. Too many variables to play with. I also like the "big" sound for a drum of this size, for lack of a better word to describe it. It's not only the sound, the feel when you play it too. I have no idea why it feels bigger, maybe because my eyes tell me it's bigger haha.

Punchy, high and dry... first thing on my mind is Stewart Copeland. He uses a metal snare drum but I think stave shells can do that just as well but with more meat. Wood shells sound more meaty to my ears.

What's the pricing like on the Kyre drums? More value for money than assembling it from pre-cut (bearing edge included) shells and hardware?

How is the DW? (: I love smaller snares, but I've used a lot of piccolos, and now I'm looking for something that Is be able to use for recording more, cause the engineers ive worked with don't really like the piccolos I've used, and I have to agree with them regarding the tone, especially while recording. HAHA. Live tones are amazing though. Been using a brass Yamaha and a Steel Pearl. So, I'm going for something a bit more all rounded now.

HAHA. I see. I like the Stewart Copeland Yamaha. (: precisely. I've used mostly metal snares prior to this, but I've recently acquired a taste for warmer snares.

I'm still not sure, we've been talking about specifications, but no exact figure has been mentioned yet. HAHA. I'd do it, if I could find someone to help me with the woodwork, and the designing. HAHA.

This post has been edited by isaacmiranda7: Mar 7 2013, 11:45 AM

The DW is a really versatile snare, heavy and solid and responsive. I have it tuned tight so that it gives a sharp crack and since birch has a higher pitch than maple, it really does cut thru the music.

Black Chrome? Haven't tried it yet...

Oak and Ash? Custom mah.

Yeah The BP is good, really dig the sound. Can make it to a Phat sound too.

Since you're gonna be recording...Ludwig Supraphonic will fit the bill nicely.

That's nice. I've played a Yamaha Birch Custom kit before, and I like the tone of birch, especially for the toms. HAHA. How sensitive is it? In terms of ghost notes, etc.

HAHA. Again, my budget isn't exactly unlimited, so yeah. I'm waiting for a possible sale of my drums this weekend. If it goes through, I'll get it. (:

I like the Supraphonic, but I looking for something a bit more unique.

It's really sensitive, i even use it for jazz (caveat: Not really a jazz cat) . And ghost notes sound...well...ghostly...haha. Really nice and responsive.

How much did it set you back? (:
Do you guys notice differences in sensitivity in different depths of drums?