Bumped into an ad selling below item. Thought about it, even tried opening the original part in LMST but then realized where to put the window switch



Proton Saga Iswara LMST Armrest Console Box
P/S: As for the headlamp, switched L/R bulb just to see the same thing; L side is brighter than R side. Even before changing to Osram NB+ I noticed one side is brighter so now it's even more obvious.

Thought of that too but does that mean we have to DIY cut it since our window switch is more to oval shaped?

Anyone know how to remove the rear wiper??

There is a nut?? onkay,thanks bro 

do all these CAI really noticeable performance? m untill now still sceptical ab CAI...lol..didnt pasang yet dats y..

I can verify its true... its 39.90 I think... Stretchable up to 2m easily... It's Turbo hose stated on the box, but i guess can use also?

It even comes with two coloured rings and two tightener, no need buy separately.

Or if you want stock CAI like VERY VERY old proton saga one can get from here:
AME AUTO PARTS (PJ) SDN. BHD.
25, Jalan 21/11A SEA Park
Petaling Jaya 46300
Selangor.

It's a proton parts stockist. The CAI hose is not in production anymore and even the Proton parts shoppe in Glenmarie also habis stock since 2007... When I bought at RM60 (VERY expensive, if glenmarie only selling at RM51 in 2007), it doesn't even come with a fastener... Got the fasterner at another RM4... I just bought it last month...

The boss say still have "some" stocks for this... But I dunno now still have or not as I had posted the place at
Practical mods/add ons for saga iswara

Well,this explanation is for those switching to open pod style,but for stock its better to add one or two CAI as the stock intake opening is just above the extractor and it sucks in hot air which means less oxygen for combustion. By adding a CAI u are introducing more oxygen into your air intake which results in better responds as well as better FC and also power 
no offence ya  

You mean the intake there the hole? It's round I thought?
Well, i'm not sure of what the engineers thought of during design of LMST Air intake, cause it's without the stock hose connected to suck air from the fender part... But old sagas like 1990's all has the hose... That's the reason I got it... My first thought is the stock hose is removed to make it RM25k / RM27k 

But still, no doubt that our ori air intake without the hose is kinda placed in the best position already... I just thought that maybe when air passes through the radiator part the air might be slight hotter... And when idling on jams where hot air is still inside the engine bay...

For the difference before and after add... Maybe i'll try to remove it next week and see how...

The stock CAI I mentioned is on your second pic...
Rm25? Thats quite worth the money, brothers selling at 40 but longer though...
Dyno? Itu perlu tengok tengok lo...

Sorry I didn't make myself clear before...

This is the CAI hose from stock proton sagas/iswaras before LMST design... Not sure whether LMSS has it though. Rare item now... Fits perfectly at the fender rectangular hole... I covered up the another circular hole with some double layer insulflex so the engine bay hot air won't mix with fender cold air... The position of this 1990 saga's CAI is quite good as it is protected from dust and water. (Unless you took your car for a dive) And the design at that time is by japan engineers... Personally I trust their design more...

Fuel saving/improvement all those I didn't even bother to give them a second look. Unless it's so called proven in terms of  going dyno in your way... There's even those vacuum turbine thingy or CPU fan to be installed on air intake or something... Mostly are marketing gimicks only. Placebo effect is highly possble case over here. Nevetheless, some might work out of the blue though...

I will rather invest on Tufoil engine treatment or those manual/auto transmission treatment... But got snake oil problem, sudden stop using treatment then engine kong faster la...
Bought X1-R engine treatment from Proton Parts Centre till now also din use, pricing enough for me to get a better gauge 

3. If lowerarm Rm200 include installation and is heavy duty worth? Satay brush Rm5 per one cheap?

i faced that sometimes too, but thats mainly due to shitty tires and cheapo kyb oil abs. and by tires, i mean one thats made in 2008 wk20 while the other in 2009, really ticking time bombs waiting to change 

ah yes well between 60-100 ish la give/take 

well my front tires are a pair of new yokohama a drive, so yea, front grip is far and beyond better than my rears.

if rear is more important than front, why shops still recommend that people put the new tires in front? because of higher tread wear or what?

Hi people, can I have some suggestion of reasonable places to service my >10 yr old iswara around kl? Thanks ahead for any of your input

going to change oil today..yesterday sapu magnatec 10-40 8x per bottle LOL

remove the themo? is that even a good idea?