just curious, for 1.3 MT saga iswara aeroback, completely stock, what's the usual mileage ah?......from full tank to the fuel indicator light up I'm getting around 400-450....speed is like 80-100 km/h, normal acceleration, RPM also paling paling 3 like that.

oh really?...that's good then...I thought it was bad >_<..what's the fuel tank capacity btw?, 45litre?

But for auto, especially auto on old cars like ours its expected to have lower mileage right?

Hmm..just pumped just now (40L)...tracked 429KM until indicator light up....actually even for me the mileage is very good considering on Monday I went on a road trip with a lot of mountain driving (about 250KM~)...maybe due to the fact I changed my compressor and just serviced my car 2 weeks ago haha.

So assuming I used 40 Litres for 429KM that would be about ~11KM/L

I used to use fuel enhancers from Cosway and they generally give me 40-70KM more mileage on a full tank, but some of my friends say maybe not good so I stopped using it...are any of you here using similar products?

If we're talking about accurate measurement, then no. What I did was, full tank, drive till indicator lights up, refuel. I normally check against the distance I've gone through until the indicator lights up, which normally does when there is ~6 litres or less fuel in the tank.

I also made sure to drive normally, no sudden jimat2 attitude when I use the enhancers, because I do realise there might be the possibility of a placebo effect. End result, I did notice a difference of 40-70KM using fuel enhancers.

Btw, fuelly.com, my car engine option is "Model Engine"?

the odometer reading is based on an averaged out algorithm/calculation over a longer period (or more accurately, fillings) of time. (which is why there is an option for "non full tank fillings"

so if you really want a more accurate reading, it's still best to get a full "1 tank's worth of fuel". granted, that is practically impossible and the hassle of an empty tank is less than desirable. That, and there is a risk/long term damage towards the fuel pump (i probably should have mentioned this in my earlier post, my bad on missing this out)

however with a few liters (our car has 45liters dont forget) left in the tank, that should be no problem at all

hmm not sure if its just placebo or maybe the few times i did partial fuel ups waaaay back then throw the calculations way off, or a combination of both. since then having a empty to full 41-43 liters fuel up i tend to get more averaged out readings (which should be accurate in that sense)

but yea from their site, they mainly stresses on having a full tank filled as you said

hi all, i have a faulty odometer... the rest of the meter is ok... jus the odometer not moving... is there a way for me jus change the odometer? but if dont have how much does the whole piece cost?

i did get a performance boost
but none of the those brighter lights or colder air cond lor
hahaha..

since i do not have any measurement tools
i just put my foot to the pedal  till the medal
main thing i felt was when ipress slightyly ..i can feel power rush .
sorry for exaggerating
boh leh ..its been 2 years since i sintalled it
10yrs old iswara, dont expect much

next project is to find a  way to remove the carbon sludge in the engine
any dieas ?

100% agree.

however do take note:
i can confirm that we have no ECU (carbie mah, only your foot and some cables and vroom vroom lol) in our iswara lol
nor do we have any voltage stabilizing components/capacitors/transistors

oh and:

LOL'd

they also got contacted by Ricky Willems, a senior electrical engineering and product design major at Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, a member of SAE and IEEE.
and yeap, good insights overall

REGARDLESS. my personal take on VS and grounding cables:
VS
as the name implies, its a stabilizer, it doesn't magically add voltage to your car (again, no free energy, remember?)
if you dont have heavy load such as a 4channel 1.5k watt amp whacking 12" subwoofer and 6.5" mid basses, i personally think you probably don't need it. our engine have no ECU anyways to warrant a stable energy.
at most you'll get cooler AC (highly subjective) and brighter headlamps (if your not speeding like mad to need the longer/more stable throw, also no need right? also subjective based on ricky's insights )

here's the deal for me:
- i speed, so having brighter/longer light throws are always welcome to minimize my chances of getting into trouble
- colder air cond (which seems the case on previous/current experience on using VS) is definitely appreciated in long afternoon jams *coughserembanhighwaycough*
- i have ICE, entry level, but a complete/decent setup no less
that said, i personally however do not believe in performance increase, which MAKES SENSE as i don't even have an ECU in my car.

Grounding cables
simply put, our car's original grounding cables are actually sufficient
the problem comes throughout years of corrosion/oxidization, which reduces the effectiveness of your stock grounding

this is actually a very straightforward thing in the sense that, it either works, or it doesn't, binary result. when you have your grounding system in proper, electrical systems in your car just works, simple as that.

so by having additional (again, all cars already have stock grounding) grounding cables, you're merely RESTORING your car's grounding capabilities. you do not increase performance or anything, it is merely restoring it to what it once was when you bought a new car (so take note, if your car's fairly new, you probably don't need this at all, and yes even on ANY proton cars)

one thing to note though:
for the love of god don't spend money buying imitation/bad grounding cables. typically aluminum based, and does NOTHING for your car.

if you're skeptical, ask the seller if they have voltmeter to PROOF that their grounding cable works.

now for my case personally, some interesting info from eric's grounding cables:
- previously my car has HKS imitation (thank god it was free, rofl!), when 1 of it lol broke, and i get to see the inside of the cable, i realized immediately how bad it is. thinned as hell, and lol aluminum core

what i did not realized, is how bad it is: it does nothing!
it has ZERO amperes of electrical load!

- stock grounding is taking up ~10-12 amperes of electrical load

- eric's cables take up between 10-20

- upon installing his cables, as it already take up majority of the load, the stock grounding drops between 0-2 ampere load. LOL!

so yes, get a voltmeter, PROOF that the cables are not just sitting in your engine looking pretty