it has a stronger heater than the typical 3kW class. so if water pressure strong then this will be nice to use.

however as it takes 18.3A as per the rated power,
your wiring need to be up to code to support. using ciplak or fake wire will not have sufficient current carrying capacity to support well (undersized cable will heat up). Good quality 2.5mm² cable no problem.

any WH is just a fancy electric kettle. the most important life insurance is a properly fitted 10mA RCD at your DB box. one time payment saja no annual renewal premium.

4200/230V, three phase means 3 lanes road (not triple speed limit).
The DB box component may be able to handle 415V as well but your residential power supply is 230V by default, and if this is the heater series https://www.centon.my/product/serene-series/ it also use 230V.

This is approx 18.2A but that is close to redlining your 2.5mm² cable safe limit of 21A..and this is assuming proper cable (not substandard cable) was installee based on enclosed in conduit method B1 in https://www.electrical-installation.org/enw...a_of_conductors

Theoretically can use the existing cabling. But just note that ST guideline specify 4mm² cable lah.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Sep 20 2021, 02:55 AM

Pana DH-3MP1/DH-3MP2 (with pump & push start)

M series is tried and true workhorse. N series leh..my advise better buy M series, cheaper n more reliable due to lesser cost cutting.

Its the internal organs' reliability that matter.

I use the non pump DH-3MS1 for few years and works like a charm. LCD screen got the same old lifespan issue after 8-10 years (I'm sure u have seen digital watch, old monitors, calculator screens they turn purple or black "bruises" and then you need to fuss with fixing it via the polarizer film or the reflective backing film to get it working -- too much hassle)..

Hi
They're both M series, no problem.
Diff between them just plastic colour.

Prefer pana coz the rest dont have push start button.
When eyes all stinging from hair shampoo..then u will appreciate the push start button

4.8kW one cannot use with typical default 2.5mm² cable (redline 21A) . Really running redline of the cable because rated load current already 20.87A .and that 21A redline is based on quality cables. Running at redline for prolonged period is dangerous.

If you want to use this model you need to make sure whole wiring setup is 4mm² good quality cable all the way from DB box to the water heater (stuff from mega kabel, caramay, tonn, fajar cable) which typically won't be installed by developer.. you need at least 4mm² cables which have higher redline of 32A.

Generally we used many Pana series but as you can see above..

How to tell M or N
https://www.panasonic.com/my/consumer/home-...ome-shower.html
The rose gold stuff is N series
The black and white workhorse model is M series

Not a bro sis here.
Without LCD lesser long term problem. Generally Pana WH no problem but (see above case by our forumer) was from N series.. hence i still would recommend the more boring M series type, this one many friends n neighbour using all OK.

The copper tank there wrote for DH-3N something..see the pic.. mean N series

Can buy online. Warranty still covered by Pana MY, can either send in to pana SC (faster) or via their authorised panel, https://www.panasonic.com/my/support/service-center.html

Generally a little bit of legwork needed, check the online seller is actually operated by good old physical authorised dealer can edi.

https://www.panasonic.com/my/consumer/panashop.html

After barang arrived, reg e warranty
https://www.panasonic.com/my/consumer/ewarranty.html

This post has been edited by ceo684: Sep 29 2021, 07:58 PM

Yes that is the one.
DH-3M, m series
S standard non pump (P is with pump)

After that is colour choice.

Basically u just need to decide
with or without pump,
Maybe colour also.

The water heater is just a fancy electric kettle.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Sep 29 2021, 08:14 PM

Generally this is sign of good pressure, means no need pump.


There's a filter on the input side, after some time need cleaning.

If machine >10 years also could mean the output side [shower hose + shower head] clogged up. I retrofitted my old 1997 National bubble jet with new Pana hose + Ag shower head, solved low pressure at WH

Ya all include filter.. its hidden behind the valve handle in the product images. You can try cleaning the filter out for existing unit 1st and see if it improves?

Sorry, I had a good look at mine, originally didn't come with filter if it says Water Volume on it.

I think I must have retrofitted one with filter e.g. https://s.lazada.com.my/s.Wk8uE on it when I retrofitted new hose and new shower head.. technically only the heater unit is old national

Ok lah your case justified to replace new heater liao if wanna experiment its not the hose and shower head clogged just disconnect and let it run..if no output hose attached (will spray water everywhere) also doesnt want to enable heater, time to change

Thank you

Is it this part?
https://s.lazada.com.my/s.Wk9ie
https://s.lazada.com.my/s.WkPBG

Remember to match compatible model P/N with ur heater.
I remember buying my spareparts from this seller modernmission. Apa pun got.

Sand/mud debris during construction phase could have went into the water pipes. Then it travel following water flow and (jam up the filter), which is good as it wont damage ur heater.

Coz the bangla won't be shrink wrapping all the pipe ends to keep em all in pristine condition..they might unload and place everywhere on unfinished surface coz piping is done BEFORE the tiles go up.

Generally WH does wear out over time.. but most importantly is that you can use a cheap heater but MUST have 10mA RCD fitted + proper installation.

Typically WH can last a decade or more.. some even since 1997 after 15 years tank health will be affected by corrosion and your old hose/shower head also clogged with limescale. One new push start WH only costs from 280-400 so its only like 28-40 bucks a year if you divide by 10 years.

Without that 10mA RCD.. every year or two people sayonara https://www.st.gov.my/en/contents/presentat...er%20Heater.pdf
those cases in the ST PDF don't have 10mA (0.01A) WH-specific circuit RCD installed.

As the whole house one is likely fitted with 100mA (0.1A).. or 300mA (0.3A) (higher mA leakage tolerance = close more eyes), effectively in practice not many older homes have a sensitive (and "safe for school use") 30mA (0.03A) whole house RCD in the DB box, so those 100/300mA whole house RCD is the only safety (which is technically useless like an airbag that deploy 3 mins after accident).

I have retrofitted 10mA (0.01A) WH-specific circuit RCD to be safe for my old 1997 heater, but it may require pulling a new dedicated LNE power line from DB box as that 10mA is super sensitive and cannot operate on shared neutral.

Yes, for Pana (and Hitachi) push start models, [the water flow + heater activation] is controlled together by the big push switch.
Shutting off the water only at the inlet valve / built-into-the-wall valve will also turn it off (in a CRUDE method similar to the factory production line big red button) as the flow sensor (to avoid dry burn like what Selene mentioned) will trip off the heaterbut it is not the proper way lah. Proper way, use the push on/off big push switch.

WH is exposed and easy to fix or change new one. The built-into-the-wall stuff should be used as minimal as possible, if the valve wear out then you might need to hack to replace it.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Oct 5 2021, 07:35 PM

Easy way, in the DB box there will be more than one big block wirh the Test button if you have WH specific 10mA RCD.

There will always be minimum one big block wirh test button (whole house RCD). Additional ones with test button will likely be for WH RCD (will write there 10mA/0.01A).

The 20A one without test button is MCB, for overcurrent protection "overload trip".
RCD is for leakage trip.
Two function in one (RCD+MCB) also exist and is called RCBO, usually used to save space.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Oct 7 2021, 03:05 AM

Did you put the washer in for the shower hose (WH output)?

I only use the push start button. The valve seldom touch unless taking late night bath where water pressure is too strong and unable to heat up in time..so reduce water flow to let it warm up

Its good to off the heater using the push start and cut the power at the switch when not in use. Under proper use (not abused) that push button easily last 10 years.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Oct 30 2021, 03:35 AM

Buy the 1st one DH3MP1.
Yes it will help esp if water pressure low coz suck from tangki case. Last one not worth..no push start.

Safety cut off device (which is not included in WH) before u GG at 50mA leakage. 10mA tingling but wont shock ur heart.

Online also can..Pana DHxMPx M series is gooding. N series ..got lemon issue as reported by forumer

This post has been edited by ceo684: Dec 12 2021, 12:15 PM

Sis here. Pretty simple but need to trace back the specific neutral from common neutral bar at DB box if u havent fitted one.

If no space at DB, remove one MCB and add a 10mA RCBO in its place. Schneider mall in pee pee got sell.