Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

8 Pages « < 5 6 7 8 >Bottom

Outline · [ Standard ] · Linear+

 water heater, price and quality

views
     
SUSceo684
post Oct 11 2022, 09:44 PM

Component Burner
********
All Stars
11,667 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Klang/Subang




QUOTE(HiT-AbLe @ Oct 11 2022, 07:23 PM)
How does this model compare with Toshiba DSK38ES3MB-RS? Both are around the same price range and Toshiba model does come with rain shower, which I prefer more. Safety wise which one is better?
*
This one can last 10-15 years.

whereas the other one.. you slowly read https://www.facebook.com/groups/kakirepair/...64569476956630/ but do note its only below 3 yrs whistling.gif

Rain shower gimmick if not sized appropriately (heating capacity and pump pressure) coz by the time it drip down it already cool off, or not strong.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Oct 11 2022, 09:46 PM
SUSceo684
post Nov 18 2022, 08:34 AM

Component Burner
********
All Stars
11,667 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Klang/Subang




QUOTE(UnknownH @ Nov 17 2022, 12:31 PM)
Is it possible to do a straight swap mcb(water heater) to rcbo? 10mA sensitive of course.
Mom's house. With elcb somewhere in DB.
*
Definitely possible.But need to trace back the neutral line from the WH circuit at the DB box.
Will require a dedicated neutral, cannot share with other circuit, account balance sheet not tally
SUSceo684
post Feb 27 2023, 11:14 PM

Component Burner
********
All Stars
11,667 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Klang/Subang




QUOTE(ZeneticX @ Feb 27 2023, 11:06 PM)
My house just VPed recently and it comes with built in water heater by the developer (storage type)

After playing around with the distribution box, determined the 2 corner breakers (green colour) are for the water heaters. Is it correct and appropriate? What else I should check to ensure the water heater is installed correctly?

user posted image
*
OK those are Tamco RCBOs, 10mA, correct.


WH hose should not be metallic hose.
SUSceo684
post Feb 27 2023, 11:52 PM

Component Burner
********
All Stars
11,667 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Klang/Subang




QUOTE(ZeneticX @ Feb 27 2023, 11:38 PM)
user posted image

Sorry this is the clearest pic i can get. The hose (black colour) doesn't seem like metal hose to me. But the valve is metal, is this ok?
*
should be fine. the plastic pipe will act as isolation barrier
SUSceo684
post Mar 7 2023, 10:52 PM

Component Burner
********
All Stars
11,667 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Klang/Subang




QUOTE(lowyat101 @ Mar 7 2023, 12:30 PM)
mine is like this, may i know is there any differences between that one and this one?

thanks

[attachmentid=11434570]
*
OK.
SUSceo684
post Mar 29 2023, 07:24 PM

Component Burner
********
All Stars
11,667 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Klang/Subang




QUOTE(lowyat101 @ Mar 27 2023, 06:10 PM)
wanna ask about the built-in safety device. i see some models is using those electrnic type (like EELS by Joven) where you press a button to reset. some is using those mechanical ELCB (panasonic and some Joven models) where you need to push up the level to reset.

would like to know, which technology is better in term of safety? since both are rated at 10mA. personally i would prefer the mechanical type as it's similar to those used in the main DB, but would like to hear if the electronic type is better now due to the recent tech etc.

thanks
*
ELCB is dinosaur
Only 10mA RCD can save you
SUSceo684
post Mar 30 2023, 10:22 PM

Component Burner
********
All Stars
11,667 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Klang/Subang




QUOTE(lowyat101 @ Mar 30 2023, 08:39 AM)
ya actually i already got the 10mA RCD at the DB

but since the water heater itself comes with extra protection, just wanna see which one is better
*
No difference between Trex or Tyranosaurus.
It just an old defunct feature that detect got earth=enable the heater.
SUSceo684
post Apr 2 2023, 10:00 PM

Component Burner
********
All Stars
11,667 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Klang/Subang




QUOTE(lankorn @ Apr 1 2023, 07:31 PM)
Which connector is good and reliable?
user posted image
*
All also can work, but ultimately its a matter of time vs money [convenience], the centon one come ready to use, no need to strip two ends (just one end enough), but you can always procure 1M loose cut 4mm Fajar cable
SUSceo684
post Apr 24 2023, 12:08 PM

Component Burner
********
All Stars
11,667 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Klang/Subang




QUOTE(j88j @ Apr 23 2023, 05:47 PM)
hmm.gif modifying piping always is the one i try to avoid.
electrical should be fine.

others brand dont have higher power of heating elements?  doh.gif
preferably Panasonic & Joven.

Centon this brand reliable?
*
Got, Pana and Hitachi 4800W commonly referred to as highlands model
SUSceo684
post May 11 2023, 10:44 PM

Component Burner
********
All Stars
11,667 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Klang/Subang




QUOTE(lankorn @ May 11 2023, 02:02 PM)
Does anyone using DEKA water heater?Is DEKA reliable?
user posted image
*
U need to ensure proper wiring spec of 4mmsq all the way for a 4500W machine. https://www.st.gov.my/en/contents/publicati...r%20Systems.pdf

Their ceiling fans are known for blade patah issue laugh.gif

SUSceo684
post Jun 29 2023, 01:15 PM

Component Burner
********
All Stars
11,667 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Klang/Subang




QUOTE(jetzxp @ Jun 28 2023, 09:46 AM)
hi guys, every time i switch on my water heater (not wall mount type, with a tank above ceiling), short circuit will happen. May i know what is the cause of this issue? And tenant or owner should bear the repair cost? Thanks
*
Usually due to corrosion (old age) of the heating element.
Whoever own the house should repair it.
SUSceo684
post Aug 14 2023, 08:29 PM

Component Burner
********
All Stars
11,667 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Klang/Subang




QUOTE(kelvin_ck1 @ Aug 14 2023, 11:27 AM)
Bought several Cornell water heater without pump around RM190 5 years back and now few of them fails to heat the water.  sad.gif
Luckily, there is 7 years of warranty for heating element. Now, going to gauge how is the performance for their support services to look into this matter.
Sticking back with the more stable Panasonic which had served me most of the time more than 10 years.  notworthy.gif
*
Pana basic push start model is the best. Aka the DH3MS1
Only RM280-290 or so

Don’t buy fancy plastic N series. 🍋 model

This post has been edited by ceo684: Aug 14 2023, 08:29 PM
SUSceo684
post Aug 23 2023, 06:03 PM

Component Burner
********
All Stars
11,667 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Klang/Subang




QUOTE(loonsave @ Aug 22 2023, 12:59 PM)
Why you said that N series is 🍋 model? I am looking for reliable water heater with rain shower though.
*
You search back this thread and related thread of new or newish WH leaking from the heater core (metal tong) whistling.gif
SUSceo684
post Sep 15 2023, 02:34 PM

Component Burner
********
All Stars
11,667 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Klang/Subang




QUOTE(langstrasse @ Sep 14 2023, 10:21 PM)
Hi all,

Since water heaters definitely need electrical work - can anyone recommend reliable electricians near OKR/PJ area that are qualified/certified?

I've seen several posts recommending to find a good electrician but when searching online many seem like those "self taught" types. While I'm sure some may be good, I have doubts on whether they're actually up to date on the code requirements or all just learnt via trial and error. Electrical work isn't really one where you want to learn this way as a customer.  sweat.gif

Also, how do you tell if an electrician is "qualifed/certified"?
*
By right, qualified electricians will have at minimum a PW1/PW3 certification.
You might try getting one from FB group "Chargeman & Wireman Msia" https://www.facebook.com/groups/wireman/

However, ignoring that, the major thing that a non-technical user must know to be safe for WH installation - the key is in your DB box:

STEP 1. Identify BIG blocks with TEST button (that trips off the power).

1(a) three phase
Attached Image

1(b) single phase
Attached Image

STEP 2. WHAT they trip off is important.

If you have MORE THAN ONE block with TEST, and there is one that only trips off the power to each WH (Water Heater) then you are OK. This will have 10mA or 0.01A rating on it.
Attached Image

If you have only ONE block with TEST button (that trips off the ENTIRE house) i.e. there is NO OTHER block with TEST = You have NO protection.
MUST get the electrician to install 10mA RCD. This is dangerous (potentially fatal) if uncorrected.
Shopee links within https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...ost&p=108113821
Attached Image

Either ABB or Hager 10mA RCDs are the best protection you can get in West Msia market easily.
SUSceo684
post Sep 20 2023, 10:00 AM

Component Burner
********
All Stars
11,667 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Klang/Subang




QUOTE(mushigen @ Sep 20 2023, 09:45 AM)
My upstairs DB doesn't have slot for MCB + RCCB, so I got the electrician to install RCBO for my storage heater. As the existing heater circuit wiring is 2.5mm², I had to insist on a *20A* 10mA RCBO. Unfortunately ABB/Hager doesn't have such RCBO so I chose Schneider 20A 10mA.

Should I upgrade the DB and replace the Schneider rcbo with MCB + ABB RCCB?

Apart from the brand thing, the layman in me thinks the compact 2-in-1 rcbo is not as reliable as a dedicated RCCD that by itself occupies 2 slots in DB. Am I overthinking?
*
TBH, since its not the main DB & if its plastic box, it's not really that expensive to replace to a bigger DB box. laugh.gif

The only nitpicking part is whether said RCBO's Residual current tripping technology is VI (voltage independent) or VD (voltage dependent) type
SUSceo684
post Feb 6 2024, 10:53 PM

Component Burner
********
All Stars
11,667 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Klang/Subang




QUOTE(UnknownH @ Feb 3 2024, 09:52 PM)
Greetings, peeps. Need to replace this ancient stuff(20 years already) tongue.gif
Any recommendations? Actually this old-timer still kicking well, heating power is sufficient 3.3kW(not living in highland), it just lacks booster pump. Need to replace it with a new one with same/superior durability and excellent pump. Don't really mind if it's AC (noisy) or DC(silent) as long as the big boss enjoy her shower time. Please help icon_question.gif

user posted image
user posted image
*
I have the same model. Just replace with brand new ori Pana hose and Pana shower head. Limescale built up and reduced water flow to annoying level.

QUOTE(Pain4UrsinZ @ Feb 6 2024, 10:41 PM)
bought electrolux water heater, it is annoying as the pump always on and no option to turn it off. i wonder is it the same for other brands also ?
*
Most w/pump model don't have a separate button specifically for pump on-off.
SUSceo684
post Mar 11 2024, 12:57 PM

Component Burner
********
All Stars
11,667 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Klang/Subang




QUOTE(kinwah123 @ Mar 9 2024, 02:00 PM)
Hi. Anyone can recommend a heavy duty ladder? 7 to 9 steps. For residential use only. Double sided. Must be solid and long lasting
*
Everlas single sided ok liao. If want solid then 4-section foldable Everlas. That 4-section got certification for heavy duty.

QUOTE(GamersFamilia @ Mar 9 2024, 07:47 PM)
for water heater , what is the best brand in the market nowdays ? plan to buy and install at my new apartment
*
Panasonic with push start model. DH-3MT1 easy to install.
SUSceo684
post Jun 22 2025, 02:14 AM

Component Burner
********
All Stars
11,667 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Klang/Subang




QUOTE(Hastebreak @ Mar 25 2025, 11:29 PM)
If you ask me, and chiefly speaking about root-analysis, to anyone who is wondering, water heater / hot water system don't really matter much from one brand to another.

This is because the technology that is designed to generate the pressure and heat has been centuries old ---- since the law of its very own physics founding itself until now, which is really a mature and stable technology. Primarily, the pressurization aspect, and likely the heating contraption also.

It hasn't changed, because, it's proven ---- cost-wise, and logically functional and explainable. And moreover, it's fruitless to spin the wheel and reinventing the exit.

Mechanical engineers would know that brands don't matter much. Better yet, they already know a cheap China-made pump works well enough for them.

What you need to know however, is the material usage behind the water heater or hot water system, and any patent for the unique selling point of the product you're eying on-----usually to protect the electrical component to keep it from destruction, while the material usage is what helps water heater pump resist against thermal radiation / expansion / contraction / wear and tear / thermodynamics.

These days, individual household products are well-fitted with micro pump technology and you see this in car jet washing, to fish tanks, drinking filter, etc, and you get the same physics application but in different sizes. Because there is more money to be made fitting into micro segments. biggrin.gif

Hope it helps. smile.gif
*
In concept, any newly manufactured and legally registered cars will be able to take you from point A to point B.

In reality, however, there are really bodo designed water heater.

Lesser known brand #1, out of the box the filter cannot REPEAT cannot be affixed/tightened properly on the inlet pipe of the WH without added modification. Metallic/chromed shower hose and shower head was supplied. rclxub.gif

Lesser known brand #2, has a terminal block for show i.e. not following the usual convention of having a drip loop to prevent water ingress, instead L & N terminals are SUPPOSED to loop downwards straight away after entering the WH unit and are SUPPOSED to be connected directly to ELCB. Any competent engineer will not split the wires into complete 180 degrees direction sharply; and it freaking negates the whole point of having a cable clamp to fasten the incoming cable since you have to literally strip A LOT of outer jacket insulation away in order to have the wires in 180 direction. Plus, in no other water heater that I have installed, you need to connect the L & N to the ELCB instead of the proper mounting point i.e. the terminal block for all LNE wires.

Lesser known brands #1 & #2 both CANNOT be centered horizontally over the water point pipe, because they so cleverly put the one and only "sole" TOP mounting screw smack in the center. So the client needed to pick a side (left of OR right of) away from the center pipe of water point for the WH mounting.

The WH is a decadent old device, but even simple things like cable routing and mounting holes cannot even get it right laugh.gif

TLDR, just get the cheapest Pana push start model is the best, clean installation, everything is plug and play, unit can be centered right above the water point tap without punching holes in the water piping.

Don't fall for the scam of fancy plastic cover exteriors yet horrible design, or undersized diameter chromed metallic shower head/hose which tbh, I think my pee has stronger water pressure whistling.gif
SUSceo684
post Jun 23 2025, 12:49 AM

Component Burner
********
All Stars
11,667 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Klang/Subang




QUOTE(Hastebreak @ Jun 22 2025, 04:49 PM)
This is why we have ISO standard, ANSI, and IEC for a reason... These no-name apparatuses get scrutinized by world-regulated bodies...

I just summarized your observation problem in one sentence.  biggrin.gif
*
standards are one thing but they're not all encompassing if they can get away with it.. and lack of "best practices" coz of extreme cost cutting too
SUSceo684
post Jun 27 2025, 08:03 PM

Component Burner
********
All Stars
11,667 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Klang/Subang




QUOTE(Skylinestar @ Jun 27 2025, 01:12 PM)
Recently I bought a Panasonic water heater-shower. The model is DH-3UP1MW. I upgrade from decades old National water heater. I think the water is totally not hot enough. Normally, with the temperature knob at the middle position (on any other heater that I have tried), it is hot enough for cold morning. Now, with this new water heater, even with the temperature knob set to max, it barely gets warm enough, and I have to restrict the water flow rate to even achieve that, which also defeats the purpose of buying this new model with water pump. After using for 2 weeks, I went back to the shop and asked about it. They said it's normal. They sent worker to my house to check and said it's normal for this model.

What do you guys think?
*
Your decades old National WH from the 90's already have limescale/formations inside the shower hose, shower head holes, heater internal pipes etc. So it is technically restricted flow even at normal water pressure.

With a NEW unit of WH, said restriction don't exist as there's no limescale build up. Flow rate +1
Plus, NEW unit has a PUMP. Flow rate +1 again.

As "power = heat / time" so with these +2 upgrades to flow rate you've already reduced the time available for the water to heat up. Of course end result it won't be as hot as the old unit. If you want to try you can plug back the old shower hose + old shower head - that one should have enough restriction in water flow allowing more time for the same volume of water to heat up.

8 Pages « < 5 6 7 8 >Top
 

Change to:
| Lo-Fi Version
0.0830sec    0.24    7 queries    GZIP Disabled
Time is now: 2nd December 2025 - 03:44 AM