I feel that nowadays cold weather I'm maxing out the 3kw instant water heater to take bath at cold nights. Strong, not really, typical condo pressure only.

1. if the pump is after the tangki (i.e. PUMP INPUT = tangki, PUMP OUTPUT = WH or whole house all) then its already pressurised so no point getting WH with pump. waste money and or may damage the WH built in pump.

2. WH rain shower if you want hotel feel then centralised storage heater + water pump is the best.
Normal 3kW class instant WH is only good enough for its own default shower head.
2.1 There are 4.8kW class WH (hitachi, panasonic for-highlands model) which provide more heat output which will be needed as the water (once with water pump) will have less exposure time to be heated due to fast moving water volume.
2.2 For 4.8kW class WH u need to upgrade wiring to DB box as standard wiring CANNOT handle their running amps (21A load).
Standard 2.5mm cable is rated for up to 21A max load so not recommended to push it redline.
Minimum 4mm (max load 4mm), better 6mm (for long cable runs between WH and DB due to voltage drop consideration) - use mega kabel/caramay cable.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Jan 17 2021, 09:16 PM

M series better built than newer N series due to cost cutting.
TBH all WH also same function internally. Its just an electric heater. Beyond the push start feature in M series DH3-MP1 / MP2 (with pump) you're not really getting anything extra.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Feb 7 2021, 12:02 PM

In theory its just a basic appliance, nothing special. U can consider M series DH3-MP1 / MP2 (with pump), diff is the colour (pay more for black) only between these two. Comes with supposedly low noise pump but anyhow sure got some sound (won't be totally silent) which will be covered by the water drops noise.

This one no push start button (useful when the shampoo gets in the eyes)
Earliermentioned DH3-MP1 / MP2 got push start and DC pump

Can look at centon or joven storage models.

Storage heater is good as there will be sufficient heated water to cope with high flow rate.
Your rain shower will still have the good cold water pressure and flow rate from the existing pump.
This cold water is mixed with hot water from the storage tank using a mixer valve (just like hotel u can adjust the % between hot and cold), the mixer valve output = what will come out from the rain shower.

One thing about pressurised water pipes, better to use screw fittings than just the elcheapo chloroform joint fittings and ensure usable access to pipe joints in the ceilings, don't bury everything under concrete coz you are "high risk" to get leaks from higher pressure water.

Newer models from Pana prone to cost cutting.
You can try to get the N series, but if I were paying good money, I will just get the M series (previous tried and true model), price wise its cheaper than N series.
No point wasting too much money on a basic appliance. Unless of course, money no object.

Only Pana and Hitachi offer push start feature.
The cheaper models with no push start.. no difference with other brands' products.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Feb 11 2021, 07:10 PM

For apartment are you sure you need pump model for (1)?
Coz usually high rise they pressurise the water feed to unit already.

For the non rain shower..
I stay in rumawip and the water pressure is actually strong enough (I set the main water valve at 50% to reduce pipe leaks that some of my neighbours faced)
In actual fact I'm maxing out the heat (90-100%) to have a warm shower even with non-pump 3600W model hence the question do you really need a pump for high rise (especially new project)



Pana got push start button and very easy to get minor parts online (like new hose/new shower head after maybe 10 years it gets clogged with limescale inside, change the hose and head made the National WH pressure strong again in my parents' place)
Toshiba slightly hotter at 3800W heater (Pana is 3600W).
For me I prioritise the push start button for convenience when the shampoo gets in the eyes..just feel for the WH box.. press push start..ta-dah rather than trying to find the valve to open it.

For the rain shower one..
The pressure concern also (if high pressure), then you don't need a pump WH, but should be looking at 4800W highlands model (need upgraded wiring) to ensure water is still hot enough for rain shower (as creating the ultimate rain shower a la hotel style, requires strong water pressure + storage heater type of water heater).

If you're certain the base water pressure isn't strong, then the DSK38ES3MB-RS Toshiba should be better i.e. warm enough (3800W) even after boosted by its pump, for its bundled rain shower kit.
The 3800W Toshiba is slightly more powerful than the first Rubine 3600W.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Feb 22 2021, 09:32 PM

No prob
Without pump the equivalent (push start) one will be DH-3MS1 / DH-3MT1

MS1 is white
https://www.lazada.com.my/products/panasoni...1689248923.html

MT1 is black
https://www.lazada.com.my/products/panasoni...1997712230.html

Functionally the same, just the colour choice (black costs more)

On Toshiba service.. http://toshiba.com.my/service-centres/
Aside from the Glenmarie HQ - most of the other regions are serviced by their local dealers nowadays, the HQ still exists even after midea took over, don't worry.

Haven't interacted with Toshiba appliances' SC for warranty claim actually; but for other business unit (laptop service) was OK (got a motherboard replaced in warranty).

aircon died after 15+ years so didn't deal with them;
fridge uneconomical repair - died in 6 years;
washing machine still working.

Probably design flaw (N series has been known to be a lemon due to extreme cost cutting) hence I always recommend getting the previous M series WH.
Assuming you're fed up already can try Hitachi HES-36WPY https://www.lazada.com.my/products/hitachi-...s441981970.html

This has push start and a DC pump. 488 only. No rain shower.

*Only Pana and Hitachi got the push start feature.

Aside from the look of the WH (cosmetics), but for me doing that twist valve thing to on off kinda feels like not much difference (besides the cosmetic look and the price) from the entry level series WH
Seems like another option for 3800W heaters.
For that price range they should be doing push start as standard.. as all our older National ABJ elephant/Pana (square box older series) and (DH3-MS1) were around 300-400 bucks nominal price range already have it.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Feb 26 2021, 12:17 AM

10mA RCD at the DB box will protect the whole WH circuit well. Ideally all controls (switches, RCD) should be outside of wet area in case of accidental splashing/water ingress.

Lightning is very brief overvoltage but when voltage big, current becomes very small. Usually in this scenario the main RCD (sensitive one like 30mA) or failing which (the 10mA) will have tripped off due to current imbalance (input>output current or vice versa as it measures the delta) anyway.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Feb 26 2021, 01:06 PM

White, 4800W, DC Pump / DH4HP1M
The 4800W pump ones list at above 600

Depending on the condo some is like 4bar from syabas incoming to underground feed tank. Then from this common UG tank it is pumpednto roof tank. Roof down to unit usually pressurised enough for rain shower, but one can experiment in 1 min how many liters of water can you fill up.

For mine (even if its just a rumaweep) the pressure is good enough (even setting 50% at the main valve for my unit) to max out the heater power at 90 100%

This post has been edited by ceo684: Feb 27 2021, 12:09 AM

Landed prop usually weak pressure so pump is better. Nowadays newer condo and the older ones with renewed water piping pressure is awesome.

The elephant one is national era ABJ series..
Yes this old clunker still operating.


This post has been edited by ceo684: Feb 27 2021, 12:20 AM

If the flow rate is slow it becomes a drizzle shower rather than rain shower then maybe need a pump WH

If pressure so strong u cannot shut the (tap max open) water from hose by pressing the end of the hose then its generally ok
If easily can use a thumb to shut off water from hose when (tap max open) your pressure not good

True, built in pump at WH is milder and lesser things after pump (pressurised portion) to go wrong. Standalone pump stronger but your piping should be easily accessible in case of leak sonewhere at the joints, also should use uprated class7 pvc instead of class0 pvc pipe. Few bucks diff only. Also screw fittings cost few bucks more but are more user serviceable than the chloroform ones.

This post has been edited by ceo684: Feb 27 2021, 04:30 PM

To add on, it is a good suggestion to have better heat at high pressure site, but will require a new cable run as the default wiring spec from developer is usually only 2.5mm.
>4800W need to upgrade the cable to min 4mm (or better, 6mm) to support the amps accordingly;
5400W still can be protected with 25A 10mA RCD

but then the quality of the unit will drop if price <600

Same model priced at 589 will drop quality compared to same model at 610