yes half inch stop valve, but I dont use that, its only just in case if I need to work on the water heater to stop the incoming water. The water heater itself had a on/off valve, which its used daily. The vale is firm, no movements.

My area, during the day the pressure is lesser, hence with ramp up the pressure using the pump controller and at night the pressure is high and my parents doesn't like high pressure, iso its helpful to control the water pressure, when needed.

i tot u use the 1/2 inch valve for on off incoming water ,if i install water heater far away it will have some distance to use the heater on off valve..
do u see any valve can fix at wall with pull up pull down to open off ?
similar but only need 1 in 1 out
https://my.shp.ee/XNWyzB4





thanks ...


Attached thumbnail(s)

hii all sifu,
today i just installed Toshiba DSK38ES3MB
when i pump up temp to 39 40
the temp blinking and the water seem not heat up d.
why ah?
not enough current or problem units?

Most likely because your water flow is too strong for the water heater to handle.

Your instant water heater's output water temperature is affected by:
1. Inlet water temperature | The lower the original water source's temperature, the lower the output water temperature.
2. Power rating | The higher it is, the hotter the output water temperature (but higher electrical components' specs required).
3. Water flow | The higher it is, the lower the output water temperature.

If I am not mistaken, your Toshiba model (and most, if not all Toshiba instant water heaters) are only 3.8kW. In comparison, other brands like CENTON, DEKA, RUBINE, etc. are higher, in the 4.xkW range.

And if your water flow is high, your Toshiba water heater will not be able to achieve the temperature that u want, even at maximum capacity. Hence, the blinking is to notify u that it is already at this maximum capacity and cannot achieve the temperature that u want.

If u want to achieve higher output water temperature, try lower the water flow and the output water temperature should increase slightly.

guys ..


for instant water heater installation ..
better install a valve from incoming water b4 go to water heater inlet?
the valve may use angle valve or ball valve better for water flow higher flow rate?

will it dry burn if switch on power b4 open supply to water heater ?

thanks ...

Whichever valves u use to control the incoming water, make sure to also install the stop valve that comes with the instant water heater, as it usually have a filter mesh to prevent dirt and particles from entering the instant water heater and causing damages internally.


Dry burn will only occur if u didn't let water run thru the instant water heater before switching it on for the first time when the heating element tank does not have any water inside, hence the heating element is heating up air, causing dry burn. Once u let water run thru the instant water heater for the first time, there will always be water remains in the heating element tank as long as u do not dismantle the water heater (eg. for servicing, and the water inside the heating element tank is poured out), and the heating element will not be heating up air since there's always water inside (unless the heating element tank is leaking due to defects), hence dry burn will most likely not happened.

yes ..will install the heater valve that come together with the heater at heater inlet

the extra stop valve is for incoming water b4 go to inlet valve ...

1st time must let the water flow in water heater and let it flow out from shower head b4 switch on the heater power rite ?

next use can switch on heater power although not use on the spot ....use later time also will not dry burnt...since water already traap inside the heater element ....


thanks ....

hi all,

im staying in a 15y/o 2.5 story house with 5 bathroom.

lately i've been researching into water pumps to increase water pressure in my home.

here's some of my pics





I've approached 2 person for advise.

Person A: mention that my tangki doesn't have stopcock, installing pump will be risky, recommending a 0.5hp is enough, and to avoid leaking in future

Person B: since it's a 5 bathroom, recommend 1hp, doesn't mention about leaking at all

im so confused whereby each person has it's own thoughts.

If I dont install pump, and change instant water heater to the best pump? (not sure if there's any out there?), will it be better? currently using AC pump
appreciate if can recommend some instant water heater as well budget 500-600

This post has been edited by lansi_raju: May 26 2025, 03:39 PM

wow!
thanks for your answer,
i just don't understand why it sometime sometime...
if left overnight without off switch then it ok sometime,
now i know not voltage issue.
thanks senpai !!

anyone here with experience with midea storage water heater. currently I'm using Joven and their is a minor leak. Thought of changing it to other brand.

But I notice that the power of the midea storage water heater is only 1500w while Joven is 3000w. The difference is only the heating time? (Midea longer to reach temperature)

*Midea is like half the price of Joven during sales.

Currently there are 2 types of storage water heater tank technology in Malaysia,

a. Enamel-coated technology - newer technology, better leak resistance, and cheaper. Brands such as CENTON, ALPHA, and MIDEA are using this technology. CENTON and ALPHA has higher power rating (3kW), while MIDEA is half of that, which means MIDEA's heating speed is much slower compared to CENTON and ALPHA.

b. Stainless-steel technology - old technology, more prone to leaking, and more expensive. Brands such as JOVEN, ELTON, and THETA are using this technology.


No doubt MIDEA's price might be cheap (Shopee link here), but requiring to wait double the time for it to heat up might be a bit of an inconvenience.

My suggestion is to go for CENTON, cheaper than other Malaysian brands; and also a quick scan on Shopee shows that this model is the highest selling storage water heaters and the most 5-star product reviews on Shopee (Shopee link here).

In concept, any newly manufactured and legally registered cars will be able to take you from point A to point B.

In reality, however, there are really bodo designed water heater.

Lesser known brand #1, out of the box the filter cannot REPEAT cannot be affixed/tightened properly on the inlet pipe of the WH without added modification. Metallic/chromed shower hose and shower head was supplied.

Lesser known brand #2, has a terminal block for show i.e. not following the usual convention of having a drip loop to prevent water ingress, instead L & N terminals are SUPPOSED to loop downwards straight away after entering the WH unit and are SUPPOSED to be connected directly to ELCB. Any competent engineer will not split the wires into complete 180 degrees direction sharply; and it freaking negates the whole point of having a cable clamp to fasten the incoming cable since you have to literally strip A LOT of outer jacket insulation away in order to have the wires in 180 direction. Plus, in no other water heater that I have installed, you need to connect the L & N to the ELCB instead of the proper mounting point i.e. the terminal block for all LNE wires.

Lesser known brands #1 & #2 both CANNOT be centered horizontally over the water point pipe, because they so cleverly put the one and only "sole" TOP mounting screw smack in the center. So the client needed to pick a side (left of OR right of) away from the center pipe of water point for the WH mounting.

The WH is a decadent old device, but even simple things like cable routing and mounting holes cannot even get it right

TLDR, just get the cheapest Pana push start model is the best, clean installation, everything is plug and play, unit can be centered right above the water point tap without punching holes in the water piping.

Don't fall for the scam of fancy plastic cover exteriors yet horrible design, or undersized diameter chromed metallic shower head/hose which tbh, I think my pee has stronger water pressure

This is why we have ISO standard, ANSI, and IEC for a reason... These no-name apparatuses get scrutinized by world-regulated bodies...

I just summarized your observation problem in one sentence.

standards are one thing but they're not all encompassing if they can get away with it.. and lack of "best practices" coz of extreme cost cutting too

Recently I bought a Panasonic water heater-shower. The model is DH-3UP1MW. I upgrade from decades old National water heater. I think the water is totally not hot enough. Normally, with the temperature knob at the middle position (on any other heater that I have tried), it is hot enough for cold morning. Now, with this new water heater, even with the temperature knob set to max, it barely gets warm enough, and I have to restrict the water flow rate to even achieve that, which also defeats the purpose of buying this new model with water pump. After using for 2 weeks, I went back to the shop and asked about it. They said it's normal. They sent worker to my house to check and said it's normal for this model.

What do you guys think?

Your decades old National WH from the 90's already have limescale/formations inside the shower hose, shower head holes, heater internal pipes etc. So it is technically restricted flow even at normal water pressure.

With a NEW unit of WH, said restriction don't exist as there's no limescale build up. Flow rate +1
Plus, NEW unit has a PUMP. Flow rate +1 again.

As "power = heat / time" so with these +2 upgrades to flow rate you've already reduced the time available for the water to heat up. Of course end result it won't be as hot as the old unit. If you want to try you can plug back the old shower hose + old shower head - that one should have enough restriction in water flow allowing more time for the same volume of water to heat up.

old unit has more flow and still hotter than new unit.

New unit the head very big surface area to mimic JAV mist "soft soft shower".

An instant water heater's output water temperature is affected by:

1. Inlet water temperature | The lower the original water source's temperature, the lower the output water temperature.
2. Water flow rate | The higher it is, the lower the output water temperature.
3. Power rating | The higher it is, the hotter the output water temperature (but higher electrical components' specs required).


I am assuming:
1. Your inlet water temperature should be the same since you are replacing your NATIONAL instant water heater with a new PANASONIC one in the same bathroom (hence possibly same water supply and piping connection).
2. Water pressure into the water heater is close to the same (since its the same water supply).

Hence, the remaining possible explanation is that your PANASONIC instant water heater's power rating (should be 3.6kW) is lesser compared to your old NATIONAL one. If that is also not the case (eg. if your NATIONAL instant water heater's power rating is equal or lesser than your new PANASONIC one), then I have to agree with ceo684's hypothesis, that your new PANASONIC instant water heater is giving you higher water flow compared to your NATIONAL one, what's more the new PANASONIC one comes with a built-in pump as well, which help boost the water flow rate.


So how to solve the issue you are facing? - Get an instant water heater with a much higher power rating.

PANASONIC instant water heaters' power ratings are usually only 3.6kW, one of the lowest in the market, and their their heating performance is compensated by also having one of the lowest water flow rate shower handset in the market (with very small nozzles that drastically reduce water flow rate, but with the downside of having sometimes painful sharp needle spray if the water pressure is high).

If u want something hotter, u can try:
a. one of the hottest instant water heaters in the market, CENTON Serene Highland with a 5.4kW power rating (usually meant for highlands like Genting or Cameron), Shopee link here, or
b. something in between, DEKA Miizu / Aquas with a 4.5kW power rating, Shopee link here / here.

This post has been edited by Selene Yeo: Jun 29 2025, 12:52 PM

I have a 3.6kW Joven in the house. it is a lot hotter than this Panasonic.