Generally WH does wear out over time.. but most importantly is that you can use a cheap heater but
MUST have 10mA RCD fitted + proper installation.Typically WH can last a decade or more.. some even since 1997

after 15 years tank health will be affected by corrosion and your old hose/shower head also clogged with limescale. One new push start WH only costs from 280-400 so its only like 28-40 bucks a year if you divide by 10 years.
Without that 10mA RCD.. every year or two people sayonara
https://www.st.gov.my/en/contents/presentat...er%20Heater.pdfthose cases in the ST PDF don't have 10mA (0.01A) WH-specific circuit RCD installed.As the whole house one is likely fitted with 100mA (0.1A).. or 300mA (0.3A) (higher mA leakage tolerance = close more eyes), effectively in practice not many older homes have a sensitive (and "safe for school use") 30mA (0.03A) whole house RCD in the DB box, so those 100/300mA whole house RCD is the only safety (which is technically useless like an airbag that deploy 3 mins after accident).
I have retrofitted 10mA (0.01A) WH-specific circuit RCD to be safe for my old 1997 heater, but it may require pulling a new dedicated LNE power line from DB box as that 10mA is super sensitive and cannot operate on shared neutral.
Yes, for Pana (and Hitachi) push start models, [the water flow + heater activation] is controlled together by the big push switch.
Shutting off the water only at the inlet valve / built-into-the-wall valve will also turn it off (in a
CRUDE method similar to the factory production line big red button) as the flow sensor (to avoid dry burn like what Selene mentioned) will trip off the heater
but it is not the proper way lah. Proper way, use the push on/off big push switch.
WH is exposed and easy to fix or change new one.
The built-into-the-wall stuff should be used as minimal as possible, if the valve wear out then you might need to hack to replace it.