Ic.. I guess m gonna try out 5w30 for my sagalmst.. or would 0w20 fits better? Need advice..lol

I took it out after a week. Cannot stand the noise. Even for 5w-40 some amount will vaporize, so 30 will be worst....but I do take it up to high revs.

My friend who tried 5w-20 of course in newer NA car, did have some oil consumed if he takes it up to high revs. If drive normal it is okay, but I think he change back to 30 already.....

IINM saga specs are said to use xw40

so imho xw30 is as low as you can get, if no significant oil consumption, can continue, else stick back xw40

=edit=
oops edit to add in "no significant"

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Dec 15 2011, 10:13 AM

LMST is recommended to use 10w-40 if not mistaken.....

I'm currently using 10W-30 for daily drive & town use...
No problems also, mind you, this is mineral oil.

Of course, if you worried about oil evaporation due to always high revving, change more often lah. And don't use this oil for track use, duh...

10w-30 for LMST is okay, but if go to track better use at least SS 10w-40.....

thanks for d info... huhu

wats if not mineral oil? evaporate more?

d standard saga lmst is 10w40

thanks for the positive feedback! w20 oil on my nxt service

To me oil don't evaporate. Oil consumption is due more to the car and driving style.
Lighter viscosity is said to slip through worn pistons and rings and get burnt off.
I do drive fast and using lighter viscosity oil in my worn engine, I have to add more in, between my OCI.....

oo....in dat sense ,i guess it wont harm anythin if i use thinner oil... will d burnt oil bcome like 'sludge'? u noe. like burnt oil.. leave bhind some black marks...lol.

If the oil get through to the combustion chamber it will be burnt off, meaning gone. That is why your oil gets less....
Sludge is formed when oil is used too long and not changed.....

5W-30 is ok la, not much different compared to 10W-30 in actual real life application. Only thing is better cold start protection.

The ability of the oil to protect the engine does not lies in the VISCOSITY rating (assuming the thin oil don't evaporate to nothing!), it lies in the shear strength of the oil. Synthetic oils have higher shear strength compared to mineral.

This post has been edited by GEFORCEXTREME: Dec 16 2011, 01:54 PM

Hydro Cracked FS as good as POA and Esther base? I don't think so.....

What are you talking?

There are different grades of oil, from mineral to Full Synthetic (FS).
Even in FS, have 3 types.
Hydrocracked Crude oil (Mineral Base) - Group 3
PAO - pure synthetic hydrocarbon (SHC) - Group 4
Esters - fully synthesised from a reaction between acids and alcohols - Group 5

Read more here.....
http://www.balancemotorsport.co.uk/images/...ICS%20v%202.pdf

it can be hard to compare same grade of oil from different brands coz all of them may have the same level of certification but they may perform in totally different manners

so for ease of comparison, the spec at the back of the oil is categorized the same for all oils such as viscosity at 40 and viscosity at 100. u will never see oil spec of viscosity at 200 or 65 degree to avoid confusion.

so here are some guides of what i think most crucial when comparing different brand of oils to see which is best suited for ur application:

1) viscosity at 40 and 100 - the lower the number, the thinner the oil, the better the lubrication. from here, we may sometimes see 0w30 can be much thinner than 10w30.

2) Viscosity index - oil ability to behave at rated viscosity at wide range of temperatures. Higher number means higher viscosity stability. important for high heat engine - turbos and high rev NA. lower number means, the viscosity will change a lot from what stated at the back of bottle at different oil temperature than 40 and 100 celcius so it is not good.

3) NOACK volatility - oil weight loss due to evaporation, the number is in percentage. the lower the better. important for turbos coz even branded oil may have high NOACK number which contributes to oil evaporation even in no-leak engines. As oil evaporates, the lighter weight will give up first, leaving the heavier oil so oil becomes thicker and less performance.

4) High temp/high shear viscosity - oil ability to sustain the mentioned condition, the higher the better. most important for turbos and racing engines.

5) Total Base Number - this is the most important feature for all average users like me to see whether the oil can actually be used for long time or not. this is the reserved alkalinity to resist fuel dilution of engine oil from combustion. Fuel dilution makes the oil acidic and therefore oxidized faster. The higher the better. Higher TBN also usually means the oil has lots of detergent which is good for engine cleanliness. Amsoil has the highest as far as i know. So there is no need for rigid classification of fully syn has to be changed at 10k, semi at 7k and so on, look at the TBN and do ur own comparison. Whatever close to 10 is good, higher is best and lower is so-so only. minimum would be 7-8 as dictated by SAE if im not mistaken

To sum up, 0w20 oil may be very thin but if the Viscosity Index and NOACK is really good, u wont experience as much oil loss or bad engine wear as compared to 10w30 having really bad NOACK and Viscosity Index. The specs are there, we just need to learn how to interpret so that we can all stop beating the bush when it comes to what oil is suitable for our application.

For enthusiast/speed chaser:
- pay attention to all specs mentioned above

For average daily drive and normal maintenance:
- pay particular attention to Total Base Number

If the brand of oil you are comparing does not provide any of the info above, it can simply means that the oil did not pass the test or the test result is not impressive that they hide it so people would still buy. We wont be able to say its bad until we see bad test numbers, so hide it and call it good stuff, people will still buy and call it good. Its all about sales in the end

for example, try see castrol oil spec whether they have half of the specs i mentioned above and see amsoil, redline and torco specs on the web, these branded oil have nothing to hide

This post has been edited by upontheriversky: Dec 22 2011, 02:18 AM

thanks for the info!

another thing though, hiding specs is one thing, what about unethical oil companies (unknown brand for example) posting fake numbers/specs?

They are unknown so what is stopping them to print those numbers. I think the fake oil scam is worse...

i 2nd ur opinion bro, nothing is worse than paying for a fake oil in our engine

but is fake oil as in using recycled oil still an issue these days here? i heard of it long time ago (fake mobil 1 and castrol) but rarely these days. what are the brands that are still being imitated?

I think still have...

Tesco today got sales on....
Tesco promo this long weekend (ends 26 Dec 2011):

4L Castrol Magnetec 10W-40 - RM 89.88
4L Mobil 1 5W-50 - RM 149.88

These oil Made in the EU...