not thicker vicosity = harder pump to work = lost of oil pressure ?

pump still works with rotation of the engine purely mechanically. If you put water through the pump, it's just not thick enough to maintain the oil pressure. I'm sorry I don't really know how to put it in words mate.

Oh! like my friend.....

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Added on October 19, 2011, 8:29 pmSame brand of oil.....

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Added on October 19, 2011, 8:32 pmToo thin or no volume, but I think 5w-20 still have the volume, but not sure can stand how hot?

This post has been edited by vr2turbo: Oct 19 2011, 08:32 PM

what about different brand, same viscosity? because i need to get rid of some left over hi-rev semi syn my mom used to use for her car. thats pretty shit compared to torco, but yea the price. i guess its justifiable LOL

from what i know

wether the oil evaporates or not is depending on the base oil used to manufacture them. low quality base oil makes lousy lubricant oil, like those what we call "kancil" oil. The flash point temperature of the oil is low, therefore if put into big/hot engines, they will evaporate quickly, coz the oil breaks down. Branded manufacturer's use good base oil, thus their oil can withstand high temp. U'll need to search for oil specification if u really want to know which oil can last better in high temp.

wether the oil evaporates or not, is hard to tell. Coz if your engine is lousy engine, where piston ring tolerance is large, the thin oil will sip through and burn off in your engine too. thats y ppl recommend 20w-50 for old engines.

low oil pressure is a concern and there is no way i know for sure that its gonna be too low so i referred to sample of uoa reports, judging by what ive seen and ones posted here it should not be a problem.

ive poured in torco 5w20, the viscosity index, hths and tbn number on it is convincing so the oil should be stable. only need to test it and see, its a calculated risk

people told me not to think too much and be dare to try but sometimes they tend to do the same by raising up concerns..thats ironic and confusing :-)

This post has been edited by upontheriversky: Oct 20 2011, 11:22 AM

y torco? not redline or others.
i still doesnt believe in torco though, it is only popular in msia same like chemlube.
if we were to search in bitog, there is very little info on them.

This post has been edited by ulet: Oct 20 2011, 11:22 AM

oh torco is easily found here, only way i know how to get redline oil is thru mail order from jb. ive poured in engine flush before i plan to use redline so cant afford to wait

i would like to try redline mtl gear oil though. ive seen one of the uoa, mtl was used in turbocharged engine plus several racing use and it was drained at more than 20k yet the result looks good

This post has been edited by upontheriversky: Oct 20 2011, 11:33 AM

What car? For my old car actually I do mix. Some time needs some top up, so see what is available....

just found out something useful about oil pressure vs. flow. apparently good lubrication can be dependant mainly on oil flow, not on the pressure.

lower oil pressure gives more rapid flow rate which is better at minimizing wear especially at high engine speed

further info is here:
http://lubricants.s5.com/oil_pressure.htm

4+ year old nissan sentra, ok to mix? lol

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Added on October 21, 2011, 1:20 pm
so anyone can provide a definitive answer to if we can mix oils of different brands/different viscosity regardless of car model/year?

if yes, why?

if no, why?

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Oct 21 2011, 01:20 PM

If high pressure means block also......

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Added on October 21, 2011, 8:22 pmTo me is Yes. No chemical reaction and have use many times like that, even FS mix with SS oil.....hahahhaha

This post has been edited by vr2turbo: Oct 21 2011, 08:22 PM

huh..?

hmm mine are all semi syn, so i guess no harm trying it out on my old iswara. maybe can leave the Sentra out lol

If oil pressure becomes too high, oil channels may be blocked......

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Added on October 21, 2011, 9:01 pmHave been using for years, especially when change brands, and viscosity. Then get balance here and there, so mix and use loh...

This post has been edited by vr2turbo: Oct 23 2011, 02:24 PM

ive no time to read that link yet.. but, cant be too thcik cant be too thin.

too thick, cant flow through the channels and lubricate the main and conrod bearings. Yes, these are full float bearings.

Exact viscosity gives you good pressure and flow, but if it's too thin... hailat.

Best is still to follow car manufacturer recommendation in car manual...
If modify a bit may be okay but not too much.

new honda semi syn is 5w30
dont know y dont ask me

oh ok now i understand yes, it is true


anyway i think when choosing and comparing oil, best for reliability and performance would be oil that has all these common features:

-lowest v@100 and v@40 for minimum friction and wear during startup and in driving, giving best FC and engine performance. Pressure is lowered but the trade off is higher oil flow gain, fast flowing oil is what keeps 2 metals apart, pressure keeps the oil being pumped up against gravity easier for the cams, i think
-highest viscosity index for oil film thickness stability across different temp for bearings and cam, this contributes to tappet noise reduction too
-highest TBN number for fuel dilution resistance to reduce acid build up rate in oil giving a longer drain interval, giving less maintenance to worry about
-lowest NOACK volatility for minimum oil weight reduction from evaporation, so oil will have higher resistance to thickening throughout usage, also for long drain interval thus less maintenance
-highest HTHS for minimum oil breakdown from shearing at high temp condition such as 3 hours traffic jam during bersih or long haul high speed highway cruising

i dont think have to worry about cam and bearing wear from oil being too thin if the viscosity is really low but having a really high VI, some amsoil and redline has these combo.

if like to cut slack on oil change interval, then pay attention to highest TBN and lowest NOACK oil, amsoil has these combo.

if always change oil at 5-6k interval no matter what, can afford to get low TBN and NOACK and trade it off for lowest viscosity and high VI for best FC and performance. redline is ester based, it is cleaner on the engine than pao based while having high VI and low v100 so its good for FC and performance, although its not good at fuel dilution so have to change more often.

i concluded all the above by comparing among synthetics only regardless of the pricing, so not sure for semi or mineral.

and also on the side note, some racing oils are not advisable to use on the street or is "not street legal" because of U.S tight emission regulation, not because it has less or no protective agent that it is not safe to use on street engine, the excessive amount of protective agent in racing oils contribute to poisonous emission. But since we have no emission test in malaysia, we can use "not street legal" racing oil

correct me if im wrong

This post has been edited by upontheriversky: Oct 23 2011, 07:02 PM

Not sure, but racing oil do not have additives for prolong use or something....my 2 sens....