yea just found out that too, apparently there are less or no detergent like calcium, boron and magnesium

They only want the oil for lubrication and one race only, then change already.....

just an update to the trial, clocking 3k now with no oil loss yet. blotter spot test on oil showed good result but got smell of gasoline a bit indicated fuel dilution

will cut open filter after oil change soon to see if any visible metal present.

Changing at 5k km??

probably at 7-8k. torco has low tbn number so the oil gets acidic quicker as compared to amsoil and redline, and it doesn have much detergent packed in so i guess thats why its popular in racing use but not for longer term purposes, same goes for redline but it lasts longer than torco for sure

Through the years of using engine oil, I now prefer to use cheaper oil and change more often because you will take away all the dirt, soot etc., and the engine gets new oil.......
Oh! that is for my turbo that is. Runs very hot. I use to do 10k km or 6 months on FS, but not shorten to 3 months only.


This post has been edited by vr2turbo: Dec 4 2011, 09:49 AM

yes i think that would be more practical, use cheaper oil and change it more often before it starts to oxidize and get acidic, leaving residues and sludge

also i think it wont be much good if using good oil that sustains longer but the normal filter still built to last way shorter

what i do is i just put a mindset and get used to "rm40 per liter oil is standard", at least for now haha

may i know what is the difference between 5w20 and 0w20?

possible to use any of these (fully synthetic) on perodua viva 1.0?
daily driven, spirited drive once in a while..
easily traveled 100+km perday

considering between redline 5w20 / torco 0w20 or 5w20

This post has been edited by noblesse: Dec 4 2011, 05:08 PM

Yup, exactly. I want to remove the dirt if not sludge since still early. If kept longer may just turn to sludge....
I am using even cheaper then that at RM22 per L. Just got some at warehouse sales at RM70 per 4L....

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Added on December 4, 2011, 8:51 pmthe w denotes winter, therefore 0w is even lighter then 5w, but both are not use in Malaysia weather as we never have winter here, therefore even if you have 10w-20, not much difference....

This post has been edited by vr2turbo: Dec 4 2011, 08:51 PM

thanks for the clarification bro. how bout the viscosity? suitable to use 20 for daily drive?

Firstly, what is the recommended viscosity written in your car manual. Should follow that.
Other that that, basically if you want to follow the chart by oil manufacturer, they recommend by ambient temperature and from what I see they will recommend at least 30 weight oil for our weather.
But oil technology have come a long way and I do see a few distributor bring in 20 weight oil nowadays, therefore I am not too sure who to follow. Therefore, I still stick to my car manufacturer recommendation.
My take, is 30 weight for smaller engines and 40 weight for larger capacity, 50 weight for hot running and/or worn engines. I had a friend on a kenari and he mixed 5w-20 with 5w-30........maybe he dare not use 20 so get 25.....

This post has been edited by vr2turbo: Dec 5 2011, 07:47 AM

i would gladly try 0w-20 on both my kelisa and swift if someone is willing to sponsor

Fuyoh! Torco is not cheap woh........

haha, what is the big difference between 20 and 30 btw?
could they probably recommend 30 due to the fact of taking cost and availability of the oil into account? since 20 is more exp and not widely available by all brands..

seriously thinking of trying.. torco sr1 0w20.. or sr5 0w20

20 ans 30 weight difference is only the viscosity thickness, cost of making don't know...

that is exactly my point of why oem recommends 10w30, it is cheaper and widely available to accomodate all range of users. i bet they would recommend 0w30 or 5w30 if everyone can get it off the petrol stations. i think prius is using 0w20 and its not a small engine, toyota recommended it to score Corporate Average Fuel Economy (CAFE) rating if im not mistaken since fuel economy is its main selling point

just pour in sr-1 5w20, im using it now for more than 3k with no oil loss and i think its going to stay that way. power and smoothness gain is highly noticeable compared to last royal purple 5w30

0w20 is in fact thinner than 5w20 if we closely compare the viscosities at 100 celcius. redline 0w20 - 8.2, redline 5w20 - 9.1, redline 10w30 - 10.7, redline 10w40 - 14.6, torco sr1 HPS 5w20 - 7.37 (thinnest i found so far)

from these figures, u can see the big difference between 10w30 and 5w20 and all w30 oil to 10w40 oil

i suggest redline for max engine cleanliness and performance, torco for high revving and long haul drive, amsoil for longer term oil drain. ive studied the spec and compound of these 3 oils hence the conclusion, other brands yet to be known

best combo i personally suggest would be amsoil with torco mpz - longer term drain from amsoil with insanely lots of moly from torco mpz

This post has been edited by upontheriversky: Dec 15 2011, 02:26 AM

thanks for the effort/studies, i guess i know what oil to pour to my future new car

(sticking to semi liqui moly for my current proton iswara lol)

come to think back, engine oil is always a matter of preference no matter what others say, kudos for sticking to good quality oil

This post has been edited by upontheriversky: Dec 15 2011, 02:31 AM

Could the 0w-20 be meant for colder Japan Climate?
I tried using 5w-30 for my turbo, but once heated up, the engine became very noisy, so had to switch back to usual 5w-40....

Did your 30 oil vaporize fast too in your turbo?