why do need to hit 7?
4-5 is more than enough

if not wrong...is the throttle no response
can't speed anymore...
once its cooled down thn ok already
how fast are u doing 1st?

This post has been edited by MR_alien: Nov 14 2011, 10:03 PM

ATF yes need to change every 20k..becuz there is many gear inside
CVT oil last longer becuz inside is all virtual gear...all using computers
which is why the GB is so smooth..so it last longer

if u still insist of changing the CVT oil
thn u MUST go to proton SC to change it since they got the machine to do it
and since this car is still consider new..and the SC still still servicing the BLM and FL
and since this model is still new and not a handful of FLX change their CVT oil yet
when u change ask them to change the oil..u have to stand beside your car
and be4 they poured it in or something...grab the bottle and read carefully if it says anything CVT...if it says ATF or SPIII
u have to inform them...else if they mistakenly poured the wrong oil....you're done...your car is done as well
am saying this cuz proton is still new in CVT and most importantly their mech are new...they always have new amateur mech coming to work in proton SC
so they dn't know a whole lot...all they know is open drain and pour
so u have to be caution of it...else your car GB will end up like honda's case

got chassis number mean that car is yours already when u sign it
not reserve...it it literally yours
if when u get the car...the chassis number submitted doesn't match the ones that you're getting...u can refuse to accept it
cuz it might not be a new car...might be a test drive model/showroom car

not yet
and mine is the front...i changed my brake pad BTW
not yet cuz when it was cold..no sound..need to drive it abit of distance...stop...thn drive again only have that sound

if not wrong...it works
but if u say normal daily usage...no
highway high speed drive...yes

or be4 u buy...drop 1-2 moth balls into your petrol tanks
see how it feels

This post has been edited by MR_alien: Nov 16 2011, 02:29 PM

lol @ the 3E booster
but the Qmax part....is the oil can try...the oil is not bad

nope...my case is when press lightly like slowing down...got sound
but if press harder...no sound
my car almost 4 year already..previously no sound..only change pad have sound..so need them to check what problem
probably installation prob

it's normal
the most expensive part in the whole car is the engine and gearbox
both of those priced 2gather is more than half the price of the car

kinda regretted using wet battery
anyone know how much to change the plate below the battery?

CVT has no permanent gear ratios
it has infinite
all calculate by the computers
it's not like conventional 4AT have permanent ones

just now finally got checked my previous 2 problem
1. brake grinding
they checked and told me the disc wasn't nice anymore which is why got grinding sound...but that grinding sound comes very late....
and they showed me the line on the disc...some not even already
they told me have to "grind" till it even...i dn't know what its call...but basically make it even...is it safe to do so?...some thread say not good doing so
their charges are RM120 BTW...both side...so that mean 4 side...each side got 2 side

2. the kruk kruk sound when turning the steering
they said its normal when changing absorber / spring...every car also have this sound
they said they can minimize the sound if i want by putting tubes on the spring, on the absorber...reoil everything

i just change brake pad BTW...this why its grinding
skim it is....she quote me RM120..for both disc...mean 4 sides
might consider if the pad continue to grind very loudly

just change my brake pad actually....not even 1 month
so if skimming...i think can use back...it's brand new brake pad
actually u dn't need to skim the disc everytime u change pad....i was too late changing my brake pad actually(almost 4 years)
if u change it every 2 years or so..u saved yourself from skimming the disc
my previous proton brake pad still quiet thick actually
so it doesn't mean need to wait until brake pad finish only change
change it even still have alot of thread to avoid lines on the disc...to keep the disc nice

so here to advice...change it even still got alot of thread....dn't say still have alot of thread thn say no need change
my dad's rear disc brake also not nice already
but that is rear disc so nvm

what oil u using?
petronas syntium really suck for me as well

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Added on November 18, 2011, 9:01 pmjust go to those cushion shop and ask them to make 1 for u
the kind of skin also u can choose

This post has been edited by MR_alien: Nov 18 2011, 09:01 PM

not much difference
as long as the car's CC is still below 3000CC
thn the roadtax shouldn't be a burden
but 1.3 and 1.6 not much difference...just focus on buying a better car
considering FLX?...just get the 1.6L FLX

RM70?
not RM32?

i thought its the same
only those over 2000CC only have difference

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Added on November 18, 2011, 10:13 pminsurance depends on the car price
source say below 50k for 1.6L FLX
should be around 1.5k per year

This post has been edited by MR_alien: Nov 18 2011, 10:13 PM

where did u get that "precise number"?
2575RPM?
if not wrong..from paultan video...120KM/H is 2.5K RPM