Many ways to do this.

MEPS - pay through your ATM card.

Split your share to different banks hence you can withdraw from more than one bank.

You can adjust the limit of withdrawal per day at ATM, not sure what's the maximum.

Cash withdrawal from bank at the counter.

Withdraw first portion or all and keep it. Next bring to the shop.

Online fund transfer.

... and many more.

C'mon dude, work it out with the shop. Talk and discuss. I have seen people purchasing 10x D7000 Kit and pay all in cash of one lump sum.

Since you mentioned that this is a sutpid question, it's me being stupid as the only one to answer at this moment.

You ask those sales girls izzit? Forgive them la... they're part-timers I suppose?

It's weekend... KLPF at Mid Valley but I'll be stuck in the office until tomorrow. Project deadline

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Added on October 8, 2011, 2:28 pmThis shouldn't be true isn't? But... SB-900 indeed dropped price dramatically within these few months

http://nikonrumors.com/2011/10/07/nikon-sb...d-of-life.aspx/

This post has been edited by vearn27: Oct 8 2011, 02:28 PM

Yeah... use D700 and claim 24-70 is heavy...

Haha... what filter you snap on your 17-55 or you go on naked?

Well, you feel that probably because the hood of 17-55 is large enough. Anyway, wait till you try Nano series lens from Nikon, the 24-70?

Hoya HD UV or B+W XS-Pro UV. You wouldn't go wrong with either one of it

Have you got your flashgun yet? Shooting in a dim area or indoor, 17-55 also can't give you much help

Just go with you newly acquired lens and shoot. Gain the experience. It's not like everyday got free models to pose for you for shooting

I suggest or recommend only, far from advise. celciuz would probably recommending the same.

Given you bought such an expensive lens, you want to put cheapo filter in the front element to degrade the quality? You make the calculation

D7000 on 50 f/1.4? What settings you used for that shot?

You can push way up to 3200. I would say, better worry about getting sharp photos first before the noise level. Noise can be minimized with post-processing.

Really? Got review or feedback on the B+W Nano version already?

When I'm viewing it at larger size, it looks more like handshake to me and I couldn't be sure for this, but Nikon's 50mm f/1.4 opening at wide is not exactly producing much of sharp image. I used the lens before but I felt more comfortable shooting at f/1.8 and f/2 after reviewing on screen that most of my f/1.4 shots are soft even though I did not focus & recompose.

I hope you did not hit the shutter while recomposing

One more thing you might want to take note, try minimize focus and recompose technique as much as possible. We have debated this many times in this thread altogether with sources of links for readings. There is a tendency of shifting the focal plane when you are doing the focus and recompose method, especially at wide aperture where the DOF is thin.

It's much advisable that you use the cursor to move the focus point to the spot you wanted to focus. It's not on the spot, somewhere near where you still get accurate focusing. I'm not sure for you, but in my case it increase my sharp shots by a lot

Perhaps you could start with telling us what you have and the budget if you are to beef up your gears?

Winter? Upgrade to D7000 and above

Still considering whether to visit KLPF or not. Got work in the office. Anything interesting up there beside Nikon1?

Proton Inspira and Mitsubishi Lancer both having the same engine capacity at 2,000cc with same chassis, look & feel (arguably). Why Proton Inspira is so much cheaper?

Whichever you...

• Can afford
• Think worth the money you're paying
• Are comfortable buying
• Prefer more
• ... hence so so bla bla bla

Well, all these are common sense if you're asking me. Yet, they are still people that buy Inspira and Lancer

SanDisk is pretty well-known in its quality for memory stuff but at a price.

I never own any of the filter myself except the Hoya Pro1D Digital 67mm and B+W XS-Pro UV 77mm. Both the Hoya HD and HMC are not "effect" type of filter, hence you will not notice any different snapping them. If to ask why one is priced higher than another, I'm pretty sure the description in the pages provided are pretty explainable by themselves. There is even video links in there

Speaking of glares. I had experienced once glares appear on my photo when I shot with the B+W XS-Pro UV filter. Next I snap on the hood and it disappears.

UV filter doesn't remove glares, but absorbing/filtering ultraviolet rays. Hood does remove glares, but not absorbing/filtering ultraviolet rays. Nikon's Nano-coat does reduce glares as well.

Here's some description for UV filter: http://www.hoyafilter.com/products/hoya/pro1d-03.html

You're welcome

Just sharing what I experienced and learned

Then I would suggest you to buy Hoya Pro1D Digital Protector. Cheap cheap jek

The price is above average chapalang filter, but it's still about 40%~50% cheaper than those expensive range filter such as Hoya HD and B+W XS-Pro. I'm not sure of the current price as many carry it with different price tag, but for 77mm should be more or less around RM160 ~ RM150. Robust filter and that should be sufficient if you're looking for something to protect the front element without degrading the photo quality

Why not? Otherwise why would they bother to manufacture those products?