Aug 3 2011, 01:31 PM
Added on August 3, 2011, 1:35 pm
QUOTE(Cavino @ Aug 3 2011, 01:28 PM)
Who say fully syn no good. Fully syn very good ler but might be overkill. It also has gunpowder wan....can blow big holes in your pocket. Thats why some say no good, no value for money, pay big money for much less benefit than your car can use but overall still better than mineral or semi anytime.
The usual Group 3+ fully syn is still the the best hydrocracked minerals that have better stability and stable molecular structure although its still has its limits like contaminants in its oil. Its performance is near fully syn albeit minus several unique properties such as true FS having can hold contaminant better, etc and true FS has lesser amt of VI thus more synthetic oil instead of addictives instead. Normal fully syn still contain way less contaminant than normal mineral besides having better natural VII that had smaller margin of viscosity change (better).
If you can afford it, always go for fully syn if possible, although if you service your car on schedule at every 5K, our usual semi-syn is more than sufficient with oil filter change.
Don't follow like Zen unless you want you sell your car within a couple of years....coz I can imagine the gradual sludge buildup in his almost 10K mileage semi. When car feel draggy and weighted down, the addictives is probably gone and oil truly contaminated no matter how "golden" the oil still looks. Some more no oil filter change. In short term ok, give few years down the road...maybe damage something inside liao..
Ideally you should change lube BEFORE car start feeling draggy, in other words change while addictives is still working thus minimal engine wear out issue in its later life.
The usual Group 3+ fully syn is still the the best hydrocracked minerals that have better stability and stable molecular structure although its still has its limits like contaminants in its oil. Its performance is near fully syn albeit minus several unique properties such as true FS having can hold contaminant better, etc and true FS has lesser amt of VI thus more synthetic oil instead of addictives instead. Normal fully syn still contain way less contaminant than normal mineral besides having better natural VII that had smaller margin of viscosity change (better).
If you can afford it, always go for fully syn if possible, although if you service your car on schedule at every 5K, our usual semi-syn is more than sufficient with oil filter change.
Don't follow like Zen unless you want you sell your car within a couple of years....coz I can imagine the gradual sludge buildup in his almost 10K mileage semi. When car feel draggy and weighted down, the addictives is probably gone and oil truly contaminated no matter how "golden" the oil still looks. Some more no oil filter change. In short term ok, give few years down the road...maybe damage something inside liao..
Ideally you should change lube BEFORE car start feeling draggy, in other words change while addictives is still working thus minimal engine wear out issue in its later life.
Yeah not recommended to follow my kind of service schedule.. Unless u are pro in self servicing and diagnostics.. Tmr after service will post my findings on how much of contaminant buildup has occured in the oil filter and whether the safety bypass has activated, and also will try to see if the engine oil has started sludging up..As per highlighted, I guess if they were using Shell then they would have to change engine oil very much earlier.. Personal experience with Helix HX7, after 3k km the engine felt really draggy, I thought it was cos its a Proton and the engine ady gone case..
This post has been edited by ZenGTMM: Aug 3 2011, 01:40 PM
Quote
Yea.. Buy 1 PE free 1 family tikus..
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guys new problem found, my PE making a sound like electric motor running while move slowly fwd or rwd from stop position, don't know what si the caus any one having the same problem pls help. 
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