QUOTE(saddient @ Aug 2 2011, 06:00 PM)
thanks zeng cuz answered my q......

why it is uneven ?
and 2 more q.... which engine oil shud i choose for 10 k service... and can i ask the sc mechanic to exchange my rear with back tires?
To explain this would require very indepth explanation.. In short, its cos our brakes are only 2 piston brakes. Therefore among the whole surface area of the brake pads, only 2 points are getting the pressure.. So that 2 points actually wear out faster.. That 2 points tend to be near the centre of the pads and not at the edges. So after sometime the middle part will get higher wear rate than the side whenever u brake to come to a complete stop or hard braking.. Therefore the pads become curved and the edges actually becomes slightly higher than the middle. So whenever u do light braking, the edges comes into contact with the disc first.. Causing resonance in the hollow middle, and producing the high pitch screeching sound. If u were to press the brake a bit more harder, then the middle hollow part will be forced to come into contact with the disc, therefore the sound is eliminated.. Paham sekarang?
For 10k service better to use fully-sync oil.. As the oil doesnt degrade as fast as semi or mineral oil.. My semi 9.3k mileage ady.. hehe.. But can feel the engine very heavy now..
QUOTE(saw2001 @ Aug 2 2011, 07:17 PM)
Hey guys,
Just now when i was back from genting. My temperature went up till red and drop back to normal. What is the problem? The fan has been on 30 minutes and it still on. Any major damage?
My car got langar by a japanese guy yesterday near the door there. Hahaha. WHat a bad dayyy.
Totally not normal at all.. Even with my hardcore revving and fully loaded car going up, the termostat barely increased compared to normal... if the water becomes too hot the water pump may suffer from premature failure.. Not sure what went wrong, but probably due to the fan not spinning or when u went up genting that time the air wasnt cool enough..
QUOTE(xandras @ Aug 2 2011, 07:42 PM)
Lol..mana Ada negative.. I also constantly fixing the noises lah.. But then till I can come up with a solution that can permanently muffle all the noise in the car, I'll just leave it as it is.. Still looking for ways to kill that damn rat that's always making love in my air cond vent lah..
My rat dieded ady.. Till now no more noise.. hehe..
QUOTE(vccy @ Aug 2 2011, 08:21 PM)
Nice

can stick at the back trunk there. How big is it?
Nice one
Muffler use cap ayam more cheaper.
I am using wegow bullet and midbox.
Yours is legendary claim.
Err too red for me.

will be making 2 sizes.. One is as big as the Nissan Crazy sticker and another will be those 4x5" square condo sticker type..
QUOTE(stormaker @ Aug 2 2011, 08:45 PM)
Came back from Proton SC ... here's the summary of me pwned by the mechanic.
-Wheel out of alignment -
Mechanic : Alignment OK boss.
Me : If ok, why when hold straight the steering, it will run to the right ?
Mechanic : Don't confuse by the steering, its the steering senget, its like that one, cant do anything.
Me : How come 2 tire shops say the alignment is way out, have to change chamber nuts to do the alignment ?
Mechanic : They just want to earn ur money.
Me : Speechless.
-1 incident whereby I need to press gas pedal to start the engine, n sometime 2-3 tries to start engine -
Mechanic : Solved, just flushed the petrol.
Me : What do u mean by flush petrol ? How u do that ?
Mechanic : Just take out the wire ... then ... errmmm ... hard to explain to u.
Me : Speechless.
-Car sluggish n feel heavy, with increased FC after 1k service -
Mechanic : All the Persona need 4L engine oil, only Mitsubishi cars need 3.++L.
Me : Why not like that before service ?
Mechanic : U drive 1st gen Persona before ? It's even worst. PE is more powerful already.
Me : Speechless.
The mechanic could have become a lawyer.. He got u speechless in every question. haha..
QUOTE(stormaker @ Aug 2 2011, 09:10 PM)
This is the HQ in Kuching, the rest only "authorized" SC. According to I-Care, only HQ do major repairing. N they don't even have wheel alignment machine.
I dont know which SC is good, cant just take leave to try 1 by 1.
By the way, might just give it another try at other SC. Service/repair at "authorized" SC wouldn't void warranty right ?
Nope.. as long as its authorised then there would be no problems..
QUOTE(Cavino @ Aug 2 2011, 11:13 PM)
Not sure, nvr done that at SC. A good tyre shop is way more pro at handling tyres setting than SC.
Added on August 2, 2011, 11:27 pmSpend quite some times research on Fully Syn and had some discussion with a few in the knows.
Conclusion : It seems all FS, SS and Mineral had the same addictives within the same brand. Meaning although FS would not break down as fast, its addictive will still wear out at the same rate as mineral addictive.
So those that use FS, be advice to still follow the 5K service interval for minimize engine wear. As for SS, it is using Group 2/3 mineral base stock, same wear rate as standard mineral. Don't exceed 5K.
From what I've read, currently only Mobil 1 (Gold), Redline and Motul is using true Group IV synthetic PAO base oil. All others especially the Castrol is using Group 3+ hydrocracked mineral as based stock.
Just read up the spec on my City Idemitsu 5W30 FS. Yeah, its hydrocracked mineral all right, with -36C pour point (true FS -64) and 215C flash point (true FS 250C....darn even mineral also 230C liao)....does not matter on that tho...coz engine will melt if hit that heat.
No wonder my City when switch to FS, totally no problem, just improvement coz its still mineral, just very high quality wan...unlike true FS, man made.....that means still have contaminants...
Either way, I'm servicing FS at 5K....maybe 6-7K max if short of cash. So far at almost 7K mileage, FS still going strong but its best to change it out before addictive disappear coz by then damage might have been done.
Damn cialat, all FS also write 100% Fully Synthetic...what they meant is the small amt of base oil they use is 100% synthetic, the rest of 90%....hydrocracked mineral oil..

Also wondering abt Magnatec. If it can form a layer of oil that STICK to the moving parts (piston)....would it also form a layer that stick to non moving parts....valve, piping,etc that might end up clogging them up when more contaminant are trap in the oil?
Yeah the magnatec i also have been wondering about it for very long.. But i cant find any comparison for it.. Since it sticks and lubricates the engine during cold start, then isnt it technically better than any fully sync? since it gives lesser wear and tear.. THose oil that use the group IV fully man made base tends to be very very expensive.. And very durable too.. But then not worth it lah to buy so expensive oil for a car not meant for performance.. There is a new Group IV base oil, Eneos Sustina, but its too expensive, 4L cost RM350 if im not mistaken.. But it can last around 15k mileage per service change..