celciuz what monopod you got last time? Im thinking to get one. Can give me some of your thoughts?

^ I only owned 35mm , 50mm 
Thanks

i look at the price between 680 and 681 , not much diff lol

shashinki sold 680b RM199 , 681 RM198 (as reference) , 681 able to load more weight and higher than 680b how come cheaper than 680b?

How much you bought at outside?

First time I see a four legged subject photographed by you. 
Using manual power at 1/8 or /14 indeed saves power but I use it when I want fill light only. That would mean that under low light, I would probably use f/2.8 at a little higher ISO for main exposure and the flash will only lift shadows on the subject. The flash function in this case would not be used as the main source of light.
If the OP shot in RAW, recovery would be better if the picture was overexposed. You can still get back overblown details and not bring up undesired noise if you were in underexposed in the first place. I think with LR and shooting JPGs, this is also preferred method.
Don't know if you have tried this... I use manual exposure on the camera body and let the flash be in TTL-BL or TTL if you're in spot metering.

First, I meter the dimly lit background by using spot meter on the camera in aperture or shutter priority (whichever suites you). Even easier now since you have a f/2.8 lens. Note what aperture and shutter values. I notice that I get about 1/30s, f/2.8 @ISO1600 for a typically dim wedding dinner environment. Perhaps you can tone down and put a little underexposure in the background by half a stop or so and arrive at ISO 1000 perhaps or stay at ISO 1600 and stop down aperture to f/3.2 or f/3.5. Fire away and the flash in TTL mode should take care bring the picture (including background) up to correct exposure.

In a wide angle setting, your main subjects should all be in focus at f/2.8 with the exception of the background. But then again, that should be ok since you only want to expose the background to see what's going without wanting the background to be tact sharp.

Why not; As I said, there're pro wedding photographers using it, I think kytz also mention one pro photographer using it. Anyway, it's not that bad until it's not usable, just that you need to learn how to utilize your tools; Better tools, surely helps, save time, trouble, hassle and the disappointment (e.g. getting out of focus shots due to inaccuracy, not able to capture the moment).

As for 16-85 and 18-70, as I reply to isepunye posting, for people looking for f/2.8 equivalent, they would not have look here. Anyway, nobody is saying the 3rd party is superior, just an option/alternative.
I think the debate is in "proper discussion" manner, it good for information sharing and clearing any misunderstanding. In non-malaysian forum, it's very normal especially long replies. Honestly, I start internet from those forums, so I'm already use to it; just try not to make it into personal issue which tends to happen in forums. I would see this is positive and constructive.

Anyway, actually, for 3rd party, if you read reviews around, there're few 3rd party that were highly recommended.
1. Sigma 50mm f/1.4
2. Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 (You can read most reviews will give high recommendation on this)
3. Tamron SP90 f/2.8 (Tough, the price against the Nikkor, is MUCH LESS difference compared to 17-50 Tamron VS 17-55 Nikkor)
The Tamron in this case, extends during focusing, it's MUCH SLOWER; To be honest, it's a much worst recommendation comparing Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 and Nikkor 17-55mm f/2.8;
* and some others

So, you see, recommending the 3rd party is VERY COMMON; If you have to know, go read others and see how others debate over it. Honestly, I just give a small suggestion/alternative based on the "SCENARIO" provided and what the person is use for, in other forums, you'll read even more "strong" debate.

Anyway, I've made it clear, and I'm just "simply" suggesting a 3rd party, it's not a crime. If it makes anyone unhappy, I'm truly sorry for that. I did not say Nikkor version is not good or anything, just stating my personal opinion on the price and altervatives, it's purely personal opinion, anyone may disagree, but hope anyone don't get "unpleasant" over it.

True, but for wedding or job (especially paid ones), I would highly recommend use the better tools, no doubt; But then, even with better tools, it doesn't mean the anyone can get the best results; In the end, it still boils down to the person's technique/skill.

Hi all, I am planning to get a D5100 but i dont know whether should i go for the 18-55mm kit lens package or just get the Body + AFS 50mm F1.8 or 35mm

Most of the time i am using to take food, portrait and scene...

Guise, Nikon 16-35mm F4 as walkaround lens? what say you?

Atm im using nikon 24-85mm F2.8-4 as my walkaround, thinking of upgrading (or downgrading kot )

or maybe just go for 24-120mm F4? im on D90 btw

Yup, it depends on how the person weight the weakness and make compromises. For weddings, events, the speed and accuracy is important which meant getting higher hit accurate hit rate and capturing the moment; thus if one is paid, there's no excuse to go cheap solution, people are paying a big amount for their big day.

As for the macro lens, I believe many don't just use it for macro purpose; It can be a great portrait lens as well, thus, the accuracy and speed is useful; As for macro, the "extension" for Tamron SP90 is, pretty long, and it's also kind of noisy and slow. It may not be an issue if all macro lens are the same, but once use the Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G, it's so much different... it's about 2X more, but you're getting a whole lots of difference, including image quality. As another plus, it serves as a great portrait lens, with VRII, accurate and fast focusing. This is purely my personal take, you may find others supporting the Tamron SP90, just like many others supporting the Tamron 17-50mm (although, technically I'm not supporting Tamron 17-50 over the Nikkors 17-55)

Oh btw I was poisoned by Ted Adnan's D3 + 24-70

nikon rumors said there will be 2 bodies coming up very very soon...
ani idea wat will it be...?
btw...
ordered my drybox but it jz got delayed...

Hi bro lighter, does it mean that my D90's ok? how i should test whether it my body prob or wat?
pls advice. thanks

Which mode(s) you guys usually use when shooting an event?

I still use Aperture Priority mode for most of my shooting. However, seniors I know recommending me to shoot with Programmed Auto mode to save time on adjusting settings and to ensure all shots are sharp.

When I'm using Programmed Auto mode, the aperture will be set at 7.1 the most. Shooting just a few shots will ended up my SB-900 overheated on i-TTL BL mode

How would you guys set your DSLR and flashgun when shooting an event?

You have sufficient time to set your Manual settings or one exposure setting for the entire event?

How about using the flash for fill-flash, TTL and TTL-BL as well? Did you ever face SB-900 reaching its overheat limits in your event shooting experience?

My SB-900 already get overheated after multiple exposures at f/5 ~ f/7.1 and I'm getting worry if I continuously reaching its limit will cause the unit to be faulty

It's about whether "rajin" or not, but rather "sempat tak?" in a event where movements change swiftly and required to capture the moments at best possible.
When I shoot 6~7 shots in a short period of time on group photo or quick movement of the event @ f/5 ~ f/7.1 ISO800 (inside house), my SB-900 will reach its max heat on TTL or TTL-BL

Well, the aperture value automatically goes to f/5 ~ f/7.1 when I use Programmed Auto mode.

What's the expectation? Would we be seeing D700's replacement sooner or probably D3 and D300s replacement as within expectation following their trend?

>>> Nikon's Announcement @ August 24th <<<

ok, its not exactly a tiny sensor.


but if it helps to reduce camera size, then its good.
and this should still give decent images up to iso1600.

well, the canon s90 sensor is 1/1.7 and at iso800 its still ok, so im expecting the nikon one to do decent at iso1600.

Hi all:

Would like your opinion on the following.  Am considering my first DSLR - toying between D5100 vs D7000.  I was doing the math, and couldn't decide which is a better option. 

Firstly, we all know that D7000 has many more features (e.g. more solid body, better AF system, more direct controls, etc).  Most importantly, D5100 does not have an in-body AF motor, which means that you gotta buy the AFS lenses, which seems more expensive compared to the AF lenses.

So, if you add up the cost of the body and the lenses that you will probably buy over the next few years, you will find that the D5100 isn't necessarily cheaper compared to the D7000.  I have provided a rough estimation below (note that the prices are rough -- obtained from various online sites):

D5100 option = RM4,100
D5100 with 18-55 kit  RM2300
AFS 50mm f/1.8  RM800
AFS DX 55-300 f/4.5-5.6 RM1000

D7000 option = RM 4,200
D7000 with 18-55 kit  RM3,300
AF 50mm f/1.8  RM350
AF 70-300 f/4-5.6  RM550

So, based on the above, isn't the D7000 option a no-brainer?  Or, am I missing out some thing here!  I am making the assumption that the AFS lenses are similar in image quality and are more expensive primarily because of the SWM motor in the lens.  Is this assumption correct?  Or, are the AFS lenses indeed superior in quality (hence they are more expensive)?

Would appreciate your thoughts on this.

Plus the advantages of having a motor in body

Some old AF-D lens still pretty good what

135mm F2 DC!

The only one i can think of

Does that mean that you will pay the additional ~RM450 for the AFS 50mm f/1.8 instead of taking the AFD version?

Secondly, any thoughts on AFS DX 55-300 f/4.5-5.6 (RM1000) vs AF 70-300 f/4-5.6 (RM550)?

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Added on July 27, 2011, 7:11 pm

Just wanted to add that I would be using the camera mainly to take family/kids and vacation photos.

85mm 1.8D not yet replaced

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Added on July 27, 2011, 7:16 pm

go 55-300.
if on a budget, 55-200.
anything but the 70-300, unless ur willing to spend for the VR version.