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 Renovation Extreme Work In Progress, Sharing my house renovation journey.

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TSphoenix69
post Aug 15 2011, 06:55 PM

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Renovation Update

The ground floor front wall is totally taken down, Waiting for new windows, similar to the master bedroom.
The North wind is blowing straight in liao... tongue.gif

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The new RC roof structure is up "again"- with the correct "longkang" cool2.gif

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New Doors and Window frames installation.

user posted imageuser posted image
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13 Amp Power Point Installation

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TSphoenix69
post Aug 15 2011, 09:41 PM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Aug 15 2011, 09:33 PM)
Hi phoenix69,

A bit curious on what did you do as replacement when you removed the 2 RC columns in your living room?
Did you construct any alternative supports?
*
Going to construct 2 additional corner RC column at the extreme edge.
Then will join them across via a RC beam joining the single column you see in the middle.


TSphoenix69
post Aug 16 2011, 11:52 AM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Aug 15 2011, 09:51 PM)
Hope you you don't mind me saying this.
I suggest that you quickly get your contractor to temporary prop up the bottom of the beams (at the 2 columns location)
Did you get any qualified person to look at the structures where you have removed the 2 columns.
Don't mean to frighten you... Better to be safe then sorry.
*
Hmmm... thanks. hmm.gif
Will talk to the contractor later about this..... nod.gif


Added on August 16, 2011, 11:45 pmI am currently getting the place all wired up.

This leads to the questions - where do I want my light and fan to be. blink.gif

I plan to put plaster ceiling. With cove light (from L-Box) in the living room and a fan with the down lights located under the L-Box.

Worried about Strobing (fan blades causing lights to flash) and Insufficient Light source/brightness due to down light location. rclxub.gif

There is the issue of low ceiling height 9.5' and multiple zig zagging overhead beams 1" (height) X 6"(width). doh.gif

Any pointers ?? sweat.gif sweat.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Aug 16 2011, 11:45 PM
TSphoenix69
post Aug 26 2011, 10:07 PM

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Updates

Finally get my new roof up rclxms.gif

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The Back extension is nearly there...

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My Laundry area.

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My Security Doors arrived flex.gif

Front + Back (the back door is overly grand ) sweat.gif

user posted imageuser posted image
TSphoenix69
post Aug 27 2011, 04:21 PM

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QUOTE(eclipse-space @ Aug 26 2011, 11:27 PM)
hey the see thru roof, how much does it cost you?
*
My contractor says it is termed as transparent zinc (cheapo item) made of a type of plastic (dunno what)
Price per piece 1' X 8' = RM 60-70/pc. smile.gif
TSphoenix69
post Aug 29 2011, 09:42 AM

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QUOTE(Jo_da48 @ Aug 29 2011, 12:03 AM)
Is your design still follow the Approvel diagram by MP?
*
Yup. Follow up to at least 90% so far .
In fact the re-done car porch roof is the original design in the layout drawing. biggrin.gif
The initial design that was taken down was a blooper tongue.gif


Added on September 5, 2011, 9:25 amNeed to make another big decision this week.
Its time to finalize on the autogate.
My contractor is chasing me as he need to build the front gate wall.

Going for folding type autogate.

There is 2 type or arm (I am going for the folding gate with tracks type).
1. The one with thick arm
2. The one with thin flat bars that goes underneath the gate.

Which one to choose?



This post has been edited by phoenix69: Sep 14 2011, 08:44 PM
TSphoenix69
post Sep 14 2011, 08:45 PM

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Renovation Update..

My Front Car Porch Totally demolished .
Waiting for Auto gate Hinge and I am delaying cause still negotiating with Gate Suppliers.. tongue.gif

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My new spare 250 Liter PE Water Storage Tank

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TSphoenix69
post Sep 14 2011, 09:58 PM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Sep 14 2011, 09:33 PM)
Wow. Your porch looks really spacious  smile.gif
*
Ha Ha Ha laugh.gif

Camera Angle Only Lah.... tongue.gif



This post has been edited by phoenix69: Sep 14 2011, 10:04 PM
TSphoenix69
post Sep 14 2011, 10:04 PM

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QUOTE(zheilwane @ Sep 14 2011, 09:31 PM)
yo phoenix, your contractor came to collect the Hansgrohe mixer and Grundfos water pump d. Cant wait to c your post after installing everything ekke.
*
Ok Ok. Sure to share here. icon_rolleyes.gif

All the my Toilet barang from

Builders Hardware Enterprise,
46, Jalan 2, Kepong Baru, 52100 Kepong
Kepong, Malaysia .
Phone Number: 03-62572412


(free promo for zheilwane) . thumbup.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Sep 14 2011, 10:38 PM
TSphoenix69
post Sep 15 2011, 08:05 PM

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QUOTE(kochin @ Sep 15 2011, 12:01 PM)
hate to be a party pooper but may i ask cost spent to date?
*
Permit application, Hacking, wetworks, structure extension, additional features, roof re-do, piping, roof repairs, concrete table top base - Only these the cost has balooned up to approx 85k. cry.gif

Still has, (things that stick to the structure), not yet included sweat.gif

Electrical Wiring,
Windows.
Grille, Pergola. Gate
Sanitary ware
Tiles
Laminated Flooring
Plaster Ceiling
Doors
Painting
etc etc etc .... rclxub.gif
TSphoenix69
post Sep 15 2011, 08:08 PM

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QUOTE(adrianjc @ Sep 15 2011, 04:37 PM)
The term for this is called a load transfer, 2 pillars are built at opposing ends of the house's width together with a ceiling beam to support existing ceiling beam. This usually causes the ceiling clearance to be reduced by about 6" or so. Needs specifications from an engineer to get this done as you don't want your contractor to cut on cost for the metal bars used.

And i agree with kelvyn, get your contractor to prop up the area that the old pillars have been removed with scaffolding. Better to be safe than sorry.


Added on September 15, 2011, 5:08 pm

Usually if you plan to do a L-box around your living room, the middle portion of the living room area you can reuse the original ceiling height. That would give your fan clearance and doesn't really give the strobing effect.

The L-box will lower your ceiling about 8 inches from your ceiling height unless you're taking from below your ceiling beams, in that case it would be even lower and not really good. Ideally you should have at least 10 feet clearance off the ground but if there is constraint make sure its nothing less than 8 feet.
*
The 2 pillar addition, - completed. biggrin.gif

I will still go for plaster ceiling at places that has no down-lights installation at the cost of lessening the ceiling heights because the original ceiling are uneven and wavy. doh.gif
The cost of levelling skimming for such a small ceiling area is relatively high compared to plaster ceiling.
200sq feet only. wink.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Sep 15 2011, 08:10 PM
TSphoenix69
post Sep 29 2011, 11:14 AM

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Downlights and other Lightings


I am now in the midst of arranging for Plaster Ceiling, Downlights and Lightings are matters that I have to attend to together.
Dropped by Top Ten Lighting S/B and met up with Kim Seng.
This is what I learned.

Downlights
Has 2 parts
-Bulb
-Casing
-Ballast (only applicable for Clip Lock Bulbs)

Bulbs (Energy savings)

There is 2 types of bulbs (energy savings type)
1. Clip Lock
-Cheaper
-Last longer 3-4 years
-need to use together with ballast
-China origin -approx RM6, Hungry origin -approx RM13

2. Screw in type
-Pricier
-shorter lifespan 6 months-2 years
-no need ballast (internal built in)
-China origin - approx RM8

LED Bulbs

Usually screw in type-no need external ballast
Clip lock type is rare and if used replace existing energy bulb need to remove existing external ballast.

Casing
Has 2 main part
-Cage/Case (The body)
-holder (the bulb holding)

There is 2 types of casing
1. Vertical Bulb
-Round type (Usually 4"-6" diameter)
-Taller , approx 8" thus need more space above inside the plaster ceiling (Suitable for high ceiling)
-1 bulb per case
-brighter overall due to design
-Approx RM 13

2. Horizontal Bulb
-Square and round type
-shorter (squatter), approx 5" thus needing less space above inside plaster ceiling.
-2 bulb per case
-comparatively less brighter (less reflective area due to design)
-Approx RM 24

Holder-Located on top of Vertical bulb casing
-Located on the side of Horizontal bulb casing
-2 type to suit 2 types of bulb (clip lock and screw in)
-can be dismantled from the casing and interchanged with its alternative type.

Ballast
-Only applicable foe Energy savings Clip Lock bulb (Screw in bulb and LED bulb no need).
-Can be attached to the casing or left beside the casing, on top of the plaster ceiling.

Usually a shop will sell downlights as a set, ( bulb, casing and ballast-if applicable )
The standard bulb is usually either Osram of GE, both from China
The ballast (if applicable) is also from China.
You have the option to change the bulb to GE from Hungry (better quality), additional RM 6
You have also the oprtion to change the ballast (if applicable) to another better quality type, additional RM 6

Note, Screw in type (without external ballast) are considered the more modern/newer design because of its easy replacing method,
but clip in type with external ballast are generally more durable.
(they commented that for projects, contractor will want to choose clip in type with external ballast as it is more durable)


Flourecent Tube (for cove lighting)
2 main type
-T8
-T5

T8
-bigger diameter
-Cheaper
-2 main size - 2' and 4'
-use ballast and starter
-when start flicker

T5
-smaller diameter
-pricier
-4 main size - 1',2',3' and 4'
-use e-ballast
-no flicker when start



Lighting (tracks and small spotlight design)
The tracks comes in various length . eg. 3', 6'
ajustable mini Spotlight are attached to these tracks and can be moved along.
2 types of mini spotlight, halogen and LED.
-Halogen RM 25 - 39, shorter lifespan 20000hours
-LED RM 39 - 49, longer lifespan 80000hours
Note, that may be the lifespan given but generally actual usage 6 months to 1 year.


I have shared all that I have learned here icon_rolleyes.gif
TSphoenix69
post Sep 30 2011, 10:53 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Sep 29 2011, 11:47 AM)
All ballast i use are made in Malaysia, from North, think is Kedah. Don't get from China unless is good brand like GE / Osram (usually cost more than Malaysia made). The China unbrand usually make noise after few hundred hours of usage.

Top Ten lighting price are cheap, but i find most of the downlight quality are shoby quality. You ask them change to better ballast when you get light with ballast.

T5 have 5', but only have one selection of light 820. This mean only yellow for 5'. Other length you can get 830, and 865 daylight, and also white light.

You may want to try Wong Lighting at Pasar road, they bring in few model i can't find in some other light shop i went. And the downlight quality is much better, thicker metal casing and much solid build. Of course price are much more expensive. Range about RM 4+per downlight.

I brought all my downlight, T5 from Wong lighting. Got myself 36 downlight, and 16 x 4' T5, 4 x 2' T5, and 2 x 1' T5. All bulb are Osram, and T5 casing are Osram except for 1' casing.
*
I was around Pasar Road today and decided to drop by Wong Lighting (M) S/B. since weikee mentioned this place. tongue.gif

Was attended by a nice saleslady, Susan
Told her that I was looking for downlight and my ceiling height was around 8.5' after plaster ceiling.
She recommended me to utilize 4" diameter downlight as my ceiling height is low. (higher ceiling can use 6" diameter and above)

Here is what I learned.
Clip on energy savings bulb has 10 , 13 , 18 , and 26 watt.
Screw on energy bulb has 8 , 11 , 14 , 20 , and 23 watt.

The higher the watt the brighter it is.
The higher the wattage of the bulb, the longer (size) the bulb is.
Thus some small downlight casing can not fit hugher wattage bulb due to size limitation.

The advantage of screw on bulb is that, you can change the bulb type (wattage), without changing the ballast (since screw on bulb, no external ballast)

A 18 watt vertical bulb can provide 100 level light.
A 10 watt horizontal bulb can provide only 50 level light
(not sure about this, just what I was told)

They sell distribute Hitachi bulbs, sell osram and philip bulb, they do not sell GE bulb.

The better external ballast they have is from Malaysia-Solex

Was quoted
4" Vertical Round Downlight - Solex, 18 watt bulb (clip on) RM23.00

4" Horizontal Round Downlight - Solex, 13 watt bulb (Clip on) , (Cant fit bigger bulb, 1 piece only - max 2 pc per downlight) RM29.00

1" Downlight casing - RM 22, together with LED bulb + driver - RM 55.

Track type with movable spotlight , 3' track - RM18, 6' - RM36. 1 pc spotlight RM32.


The above is what I remember, it is a bit rojak rclxub.gif but I hope this helps blush.gif


TSphoenix69
post Sep 30 2011, 11:07 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Sep 30 2011, 11:01 PM)
You did not check out the brand "eluminuz"? Think is their own brand and quality much better than most downlight.
*
The Sales Lady did not intro to me lah. doh.gif
Maybe she thought my face not "Ong" enough. tongue.gif
TSphoenix69
post Oct 3 2011, 11:37 PM

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QUOTE(Jo_da48 @ Oct 3 2011, 10:56 PM)
why not change to stainless Storage Tank?
*
1. Price tongue.gif
2. Have to make a concrete base for the stainless steel water tank on the roof. doh.gif
3. Do not see the advantage (stainless steel will also eventually rust). shakehead.gif



TSphoenix69
post Oct 9 2011, 12:27 AM

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Tiles Hunting

Have been to many tiles shop looking for tiles.
With so many varieties and design, it can seem mind boggling.

Initially just browsing to get some ideas.
Later when I determine what I want, browse again.

Below are some of my experience.

How to Choose hmm.gif

1. Start by getting a clear picture in your mind, what "size" the tiles you want on each surface.
e.g. "1x2" or "2x2" or others.
-With this in mind you will have a much easier time zeroing/focusing on what tile you want.

2. Tile "surface type/feel" and "colours" will be the next thing you got to determine.
-With size, surface and colours determined, you will notice that ther choices narrow down dramatically.

3. The next stage will be choosing and buying the tiles.


Specification icon_rolleyes.gif

There is many terms and some are mixed upuntil the salesperson also have trouble explaining.
This is what I understand
Ceramic Tiles - Standard Tiles Type
Porcelain Tiles - Porcelain type ceramic, stronger usual ceramic. Suitable for heavy duty area (e.g.floors)
Glazed - a shiny layer on the surface of the tiles to give the glossy and/or smooth feel
Polished - The tiles are polished to achive the smooth glossy feel rather than glazed
Matte - Non shiny glossy surface. Might or might not be glazed
Rough - Rough lor..
Homogeneous - The material is same from top to bottom It can be rough, matte or polished but not glazed as glazed layer is a different material. It is all porcelain tiles
Full Body - The top surface coloured layer is the same all the way through
Half Body - The top layer is only half the way through the tile body.

The confusion comes in when Homogeneous, Full body and Half body is defined. rclxub.gif



Brands cool2.gif

Below are my Impression of the tile brand based on their showroom that I have been to.
The impression is affected by
-Showroom deco
-Sales personnel

Guocera Marketing Sdn. Bhd.
Kompleks Kemajuan, Petaling Jaya
- Nice, Big, Classy Showroom as it is their main HQ
- Staff is a bit cold (maybe because I do not look "loaded" enough)
- Giving a very high end impression
- The shop is a mainly showcase for goucera, not much discount.

White Horse Ceramic World (Malaysia’s largest tile showroom)
Bandar Baru Selayang
- Huge Showroom
- Staff is ok but a bit non chalant
- Has various booth with diffrent tile combination to give you an ideas.
- It has a distinctively middle class feel.
- A showcase for White Horse but not agressive in selling

Niro Ceramic
Bandar Puteri Puchong, Puchong
Jalan Penchala, Petaling Jaya
-Very classy showroom
-Depends on the staff, if you are lucky, you will encounter entusiastic service, if not lucky, you will feellike in switzerland --- cold shouldered.
-Gives impression of solid swiss european standard
-The staff wanna sell but feellike that they are limited by company policy regarding discount

Feruni Ceramiche Sdn Bhd
Jalan 213, Petaling Jaya
- High Class showroom.
- Nice helpful staff
- Makes you change your perception about China Tile.
- They wanna sell. very professional

Kimgres Marketing Sdn Bhd
Jalan 217, Petaling Jaya
- OK Showroom
- Staff non chalant
- Feel like that they are not interested in residential customers but more on projects/bulk sales

Malaysian Mosaics Berhad
Jalan 205, Petaling Jaya
- Old rundown showroom
- OK staff but they seem unenthusiastic
- Makes you think that their tiles are old.

Tile Shops blush.gif

To get the best possible combination you will need to go to those tile shop that sells various brands.
Below are the impression I get from the tile shop I have been to.(these are shops mentioned in some of the forum topic)

Sing Mee Co
Jalan Penchala, Petaling Jaya
- Rundown showroom
- OK staff but can't seems to get competitive prices there.
- Lots of choices but all jumbled up together.
- Feels old.

Super Ceramic
Tmn Perindustrian Kinrara, Puchong
Jalan 222, Petaling Jaya
- Many brands including some china tiles
- Got stock - cheap, no stock - standard price
- Many aunties staff, Ok lah
- Limited models
- Definately feels cheap

Ipmuda Buildermart
Jalan 13/2, Petaling Jaya
- Classy factory like showroom.
- Got many brands but mainly of Niro Ceramic tiles with good prices and lots of special offer models.
- Got stock - good price, no stock - standard price

Buimaco Sdn. Bhd.
USJ 21, UEP Subang Jaya
- Nice showroom
- Helpful staff
- Good layout, easy to choose
- Sells Guocera(distributor), Feruni(distributor), Niro (distributor), MML, White Horse. Mainly branded items.
- Good offers on many models especially the brand they distribute and some special offerd tile models.
- Feels complete.

1 Stop
Jalan Kepong
- Clean cramped showroom
- Very "Chap Pa Lang"
- OK service
- Definitely do not feel expensive
- Feels that the choices are limited

Been other tile shop around puchong and kepong and generally the rule seems to be
"I got stock, I sell cheap, wanna clear stock
I got no stock, not so cheap lor, got to order"


OK... Now gotta decide where and what to buy tongue.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Oct 9 2011, 12:56 AM
TSphoenix69
post Oct 11 2011, 12:22 PM

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QUOTE(asciii @ Oct 11 2011, 11:40 AM)
a quick question: have you looked into marble flooring?
*

Yes. nod.gif
Actually dropped by Ipoh marble factory. Very pricey lah. sweat.gif
Colours are not uniform (natural),
It gets thicker as the pieces get bigger (to support the piece).
You need to get a marble tiling specialist to install the tiles.
They also have nice stone pieces for wall or flooring purposes.
Very nice but the price rclxub.gif
TSphoenix69
post Oct 11 2011, 07:30 PM

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QUOTE(asciii @ Oct 11 2011, 01:14 PM)
just to check..which architect did you use?
*
No architect. Just me. tongue.gif
The guy I pm-ed you drawn out the architect layout for me. nod.gif


Added on October 11, 2011, 7:31 pm
QUOTE(scouser7 @ Oct 11 2011, 06:00 PM)
Seeking advise from sifu's here.

Is the correct renovation sequence... Lay tiles first followed by plaster ceiling, painting, install door and windows?

Thanks in advance
*
I am no sifu but I think you have a good sequence there. nod.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Oct 11 2011, 07:31 PM
TSphoenix69
post Oct 12 2011, 10:24 PM

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Renovation update:-

Car Porch Entrance Front Gate column build-up

user posted image


My future mail-box and its future housing

user posted imageuser posted image


Car Porch Main Gate

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My Big A&& windows

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TSphoenix69
post Oct 13 2011, 04:32 PM

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QUOTE(kamion @ Oct 13 2011, 03:39 PM)
Those two metal posts... are they to support the gate in the future?
*
Yup. My contractor insisted that I choose the gate supplier to get these 2 metal post before building the columm. blush.gif
He says regular gate hinge that is supplied by hardware shop is just not strong enough for the type of gate I want.

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