congrats on ur discovery... but may i ask is the temperature u r showing in the pic the "alr-fully-warm-up" temperature coz it stil looks quite low as i was told the needle should be just right below the middle line of the temp gauge for optimum operating temperature.

btw do u run ur engine with thermostat or checked ur current thermostat alr (if running wif it)?

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Added on July 8, 2011, 1:00 amdun play play wif this... i kena b4. once start engine kena frightened kau kau tot wat happen to my engine becaome so LOUD.

then went to mech he duno grind n sandpaper wat part n get it done without replacing parts. luckily it did not happen on the road/highway while driving.

This post has been edited by kher: Jul 8 2011, 01:12 AM

this was about 5 minutes (approx) after i start the engine after changing the temp sensor. this is when the radiator fan kicks in. when the fan kicks in is all that matters, cause if you're driving on highway with enough airflow to cool the coolant, then the fan should not kick in if temp is already below this level due to the massive airflow. and if it gets way too cool (e.g. maybe driving in genting highlands with cool air over the radiator) that's when the thermostat is supposed to do it's job by closing the water flow and only opening it up when coolant temp is about 82 deg C (thermostat rating).

this combination allows the engine coolant and subsequently the engine to remain at a rather stable operating temp.

if it's higher or lower, you can probably slowly work out the logic and figure out what's wrong. what's the status with yours? have you tried changing the temp sensor??


[quote=kher,Jul 8 2011, 12:58 AM]
congrats on ur discovery... but may i ask is the temperature u r showing in the pic the "alr-fully-warm-up" temperature coz it stil looks quite low as i was told the needle should be just right below the middle line of the temp gauge for optimum operating temperature.

mine i still drove out to buy dinner just nw will fix it tmr as i noe where is the problem le

going to change my spark plug..any recommend brand?

mine sometimes reaches wat u shown in ur pic after install back thermostat. but most of the time 1 bar n above a bit. b4 install back thermostat always jus 1 bar.

fan still kicks in when needle reaches 1 bar an above a bit.

temp sensor not yet kacau. gotta find free time... haha...

This post has been edited by kher: Jul 8 2011, 01:28 AM

"b4 install back thermostat always jus 1 bar."
-> means tstat last time stuck open or missing, so coolant circulating all the time. so even when engine is cool enough, it's still circulating coolant. this is my understanding (i'm no expert).


"fan still kicks in when needle reaches 1 bar an above a bit."
-> same as me before i changed the temp sensor. the temp sensor senses the coolant temp and should send signal to fan to start turning once it gets past a certain temp. since fan kicks in too early, most probably it's temp sensor just like my situation.

stick to the standard. i think i used NGK bp6es RM18 for 4. just ask the spare part shop they should be able to give you the correct one.

imho, don't bother wasting money on so called high performance plugs, but that's just me

y not go for NGK platinum spark plugs?

why ngk platinum? how much are those and what benefits do they bring to iswara 4g13/4g15?

FYI basic copper plug can conduct more eletricity than platinium , iridium , plutonium , skywalkernium
but cooper does last long as those platinuim , iridium , plutonium , skywalkernium
i know a few powderfull turbo engine use back copper only olso no problem
ask skywalker he use what plug only what hp his 4g13tipu dyno out then faham faham lo

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Added on July 8, 2011, 9:58 amsome say increase 2 hp some say 1 full tank can gib extra 10km millage

This post has been edited by sinister_sid: Jul 8 2011, 09:58 AM

How about plugs cables? using stock now wondering for a actual performance upgrade if switched to thicked cables?

please consult sifus!

that might be true, but what's the cost of the platinum plugs compared to the standard NGK? RM18 for the NGK. How much does the plat plugs cost?

sorry but this is my personal view, it's just an iswara. not a F1 car where miliseconds matter. copper/platinum/kryptonite/energon's not gonna make the iswara fly. to me, it's just waste of money.

true it can prob increase 2hp or 1 full tank extra 10km or it can last 100k mileage.
i don't buy the last 100k mileage thing, all you need is for an out of tune engine to foul and spoil your expensive plugs. standard plugs - change every 20k or 10k would be my preference.

extra 10km for 1 full tank, say full tank is RM70 or 36 liters. Extra 10km out of this RM70 is so miniscule that you're better off switching off A/C say 10 minutes per day. if you're using plat or high end plugs, it can't be for fuel savings cause you'll go for performance, which would definitely cause you higher FC than average

sorry if this sounds negative, but i really don't see any cost or performance reason to use high end stuff. it's all just marketing talk and people want you to spend more $$ to contribute to their company's accounts.
standard spec will do but i recognize some will want to still go for performance parts

better you stick to the oem....be4 this im use aftgermarket cable plug....when high rpm(6-7k)...car feel jerking.....back to the ori.....no more....

please refer to 1st page...look at spark plug cable...

Bros, my iswara a/b third brake light broken already.

Anyone can tell me where to source for a replacement together with the big screw nuts?
My brake light cracked due to old age and when i pass by a hump the other day, whole brake light fell off and the lock nut loosen and fell off already.

Now use sealant temporarily to seal the hole on the back windscreen to prevent rain water coming in.

Please let me know if anyone of u know where to source for new third brake light kit.

Thanks!

actually wide open gap bring more advantage.....like 3 spike spark plug or modified normal spark plug.......bigger the spark.better the combustion@complete burning....xtra kick.....thus get better milage...and fuel safe

Manage to solve my throttle cable sticking issue,ytd i screw it close to the end following uncle fred and sifu catacomb way to increase throttle respond but must be due to my cable having dirt inside which cause the sticking issue if i screw it closer to the end

cant really hear to engine rev.. sounds normal to me

that not engine...that carb sound...

i mean carb x) cant hear oso

guys..usually where we can buy this?