Hi all, Iswara owner here just took over from relative. I'm looking for this part, does anyone know where to get this? Spare part shop quoted me RM230 for the entire assembly as even the handle part is cracked so I need to replace the entire thing.

http://postimage.org/image/c96cqiuc/

Also, anyone happen to know how to remove the side mirror? My side mirror broke off and just bought replacement 3rd party side mirror but have no idea how to remove the old one.... thanks!!

---

Added on July 4, 2011, 10:56 amAssuming you're talking about Iswara, it's electrical. Only odometer is cable from gearbox. I just opened it up recently to change the middle odometer/speedometer section as old one not working anymore. There are 2 electrical connectors to the left (RPM) and right sections (fuel/temp). For the middle part, it's a single cable from the gearbox.

3 cables in total. Hope this helps.

This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Jul 4 2011, 10:56 AM

hi all,

is this the normal operating temp for iswara? around the first notch....



This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Jul 4 2011, 02:40 PM

hi kher,

interesting because mine is always at 1 bar only. but mainly city driving, never went on highway.

this is my understanding:
1. if tstat stuck closed, engine's gone as it will overheat very fast.
2. if tstat stuck open, then in city/stop-start/heavy driving, temp may be normal but once you get on highway with lots of wind (cooling) then temp will drop to minimum

i may need to check my tstat as well since it's always at 1 bar only. how much was the tstat and where exactly is the tstat housing? easy to diy? (i can change spark plugs, clutch/speedo cables, flush radiator...)

another thing, what is the tstat rating (88 deg?) and what is the pressure of the radiator cap that you're using? maybe those play a role in the temp too?

You might want to try tstat rating 88 cause I think he spec is 88.

I'm no expert but if with tstat and you feel engine running cooler than you want, you should try higher rated tstat cause now the 82 tstat will open and allow coolant to flow and this will reduce running temp. If you use 88 rated tstat, I will open later at 88deg.

Just my layman understanding. I need to go check my tstat too someday....

Why don't you measure it the proper way and get an accurate reading first? RM70 for 300+km is very general. Do this:

1. Fill to full let the pump auto stop or you visually see the level (if you pump till THAT full) - take note of odometer reading (the cumulative mileage, not the tripmeter which you can reset)
2. Drive around as normal
3. Anytime you want to check FC for that tank, e.g. at 1/4 tank, go repeat step #1, i.e. fill to full let pump auto stop.
4. Take the odometer reading.

Now take the km traveled, divide by liters of petrol pumped.

This will be your km/l reading. Do this for a baseline reading first, then only can compare with others and see if it's higher or less than average

Good luck!

For my Iswara whose temp is around 1 bar from cool, I noticed that when I turn key to ACC, the radiator fan comes on! And when I start the engine, the fan seems to be turning continuously, it never stops!!!! This could be the reason why I'm running cooler than normal right? A/C is off in all the above situation.

Question now is why is the fan turning all the time?? I bought the thermal switch and thought of DIY replacing later to check, but could it have been wired to run continously??

Kher, maybe you can check if your fan turns all the time?

have you tried changing the thermal switch at the bottom of radiator?

i just bought it rm38 from spare part shop, gonna try diy replace mine since it's been a long long while anyway.

any idea how the wiring should be if continuous and if stop-start?

the radiator fan motor seem to have 3 wires..... the one with socket goes to a connector, and i think one goes to the thermo switch at the bottom of radiator. how do they wire till the fan runs continously?

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_oXCyGODW9ME/TBCo...+motor+Rm65.JPG

i just changed engine oil, used Shell Helix HX3 20-50 RM55. no need fancy engine oil, it's just a stock 4G13

then i think my temp sensor is not working properly. my issue was i thought the fan runs continuously, but i just checked, turn key to ACC fan does not run. start engine, fan still does not run. after a while when temp hit 1st notch, fan kicked in. and it runs on even when temp drops below the 1st notch. so it seems that my fan kicks in way below the correct temp.

isn't that too cool? i looked at the cables from fan and one of them does go to the temp sensor at the bottom, which means it's not bypassed right?

i AM trying to get the car back to factory setting. that's why trying to figure out why the fan kicks in and runs continuously even when temp is nowhere near 2nd notch which is below middle.

i'm not so concerned on the FC and engine cool, i'm concerned about the radiator fan being overtaxed and it might fail on me on the most inconvenient time!

i'll try and change the temp sensor and see. thanks.

My low temp issue is solved! It was caused by the thermo switch at the bottom of the radiator. I bought this RM38 and diy replaced it piece of cake. At the same time I just flushed the radiator and thankfully not much rust. Photo below is the old switch which I took out.



Now the fan kicks in at just below 2nd/middle notch which is correct, right?



After the coolant cools down a bit, the fan stops. and it starts again when I rev it. So I believe the old switch was sending the coolant too hot signal too early to the fan

So just change the thermo switch, RM38 only and easily diy but you'll need to replace some water/coolant as some will leak out. Make sure engine is COLD before doing this!

Hope this helps anyone out there facing same issue.


This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Jul 7 2011, 05:02 PM

temp switch cable is push/pull. there is a rubber covering over it so slide the rubber covering back, and gently pull on the socket. it should come out without too much efford. then i used an adjustable spanner to loosen the switch and then hand removed it. radiator coolant will leak out immediately so make sure it's not hot before you start.

For the radiator stopper, it's plastic so if you are not careful, yes you can break it. Buy one or two as spare, it only costs RM2 from spare parts shop.

If you're gonna do this tomorrow morning, better make sure you don't have to go anywhere far. Normally after you flush radiator, if you didn't get rid of all the air pockets the water level will drop after a short drive. So make sure you rev the engine a bit after filing water into radiator and get rid of the air pockets.

To be safe, drive short distances and then check the water level again (prob fill the spare tank instead of into radiator directly).

Good luck!

this was about 5 minutes (approx) after i start the engine after changing the temp sensor. this is when the radiator fan kicks in. when the fan kicks in is all that matters, cause if you're driving on highway with enough airflow to cool the coolant, then the fan should not kick in if temp is already below this level due to the massive airflow. and if it gets way too cool (e.g. maybe driving in genting highlands with cool air over the radiator) that's when the thermostat is supposed to do it's job by closing the water flow and only opening it up when coolant temp is about 82 deg C (thermostat rating).

this combination allows the engine coolant and subsequently the engine to remain at a rather stable operating temp.

if it's higher or lower, you can probably slowly work out the logic and figure out what's wrong. what's the status with yours? have you tried changing the temp sensor??


[quote=kher,Jul 8 2011, 12:58 AM]
congrats on ur discovery... but may i ask is the temperature u r showing in the pic the "alr-fully-warm-up" temperature coz it stil looks quite low as i was told the needle should be just right below the middle line of the temp gauge for optimum operating temperature.

"b4 install back thermostat always jus 1 bar."
-> means tstat last time stuck open or missing, so coolant circulating all the time. so even when engine is cool enough, it's still circulating coolant. this is my understanding (i'm no expert).


"fan still kicks in when needle reaches 1 bar an above a bit."
-> same as me before i changed the temp sensor. the temp sensor senses the coolant temp and should send signal to fan to start turning once it gets past a certain temp. since fan kicks in too early, most probably it's temp sensor just like my situation.

stick to the standard. i think i used NGK bp6es RM18 for 4. just ask the spare part shop they should be able to give you the correct one.

imho, don't bother wasting money on so called high performance plugs, but that's just me

why ngk platinum? how much are those and what benefits do they bring to iswara 4g13/4g15?

that might be true, but what's the cost of the platinum plugs compared to the standard NGK? RM18 for the NGK. How much does the plat plugs cost?

sorry but this is my personal view, it's just an iswara. not a F1 car where miliseconds matter. copper/platinum/kryptonite/energon's not gonna make the iswara fly. to me, it's just waste of money.

true it can prob increase 2hp or 1 full tank extra 10km or it can last 100k mileage.
i don't buy the last 100k mileage thing, all you need is for an out of tune engine to foul and spoil your expensive plugs. standard plugs - change every 20k or 10k would be my preference.

extra 10km for 1 full tank, say full tank is RM70 or 36 liters. Extra 10km out of this RM70 is so miniscule that you're better off switching off A/C say 10 minutes per day. if you're using plat or high end plugs, it can't be for fuel savings cause you'll go for performance, which would definitely cause you higher FC than average

sorry if this sounds negative, but i really don't see any cost or performance reason to use high end stuff. it's all just marketing talk and people want you to spend more $$ to contribute to their company's accounts.
standard spec will do but i recognize some will want to still go for performance parts

i had the same problem (aeroback).. if yours is aeroback, try this:

1. Open the boot and remove the clips holding the interior plastic garnish in place
2. Visually check and make sure no water inside
3. Open the boot to the highest position and confirm no water leaking
4. Install back the plastic interior and close the boot
5. Now take a hose and wet the reverse light
6. If your reverse light now starts to look like aquarium, that's where the water leak is.
7. Get ready 2/3 pails, open the boot to the highest position and start collecting the water that's leaking out from the corner/sides of the plastic interior.
8. Remove the plastic, and look for signs of water around reverse light.

I had to remove the entire plastic rear garnish and then the reverse light (extremely difficult, exercise caution as those are plastic parts and can break easily). Then I sealed the reverse light fitting with RTV silicone (that's the only thing I had with me). You can probably go buy the rubber/foam gasket from spare parts shop and slowly replace that but I took the easy/lazy way out.

Mine's not leaking so far, tested and I don't have aquarium reverse light now.

Nothing beats the spec in orig manual, i have it still. here goes:

1.3l engine model 4G13
1.5l engine model 4G15

Max output (DIN) 4G13 62kW @ 6000r/min
Max output (DIN) 4G15 67kW @ 6000r/min

Max torque (DIN) 4G13 109Nm @ 4000r/min
Max torque (DIN) 4G15 126Nm @ 4000r/min

Hope this helps.

quote from:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/t...rsus-torque.htm

"In other words, torque lets you do the work, but horsepower lets you do the work quickly."

the power values above = horsepower. the higher the torque and horsepower, the more powerful the car engine is. go find out how much power/torque a bugatti veyron has