ANy1 here used fully synthetic in their saga eh? I Would like to know if any1 have used it without any problem/ loss compression / leakage / oil reduction.

and

The saga has massive engine oil leaking problem currently. And the belting also produce a lot of noise. Izzit possible to assume that the oil leakage is the source of the problem as it may has spill some to the belt?

If engine oil leak try to source what the problem is. If ur exhaust got white smoke, try replacing the valve seal. Could be one of the problem that caused the oil to leak. For the belting issue, just tighten back the belting and spray some WD40. Should be ok then.

i use for 1 yeear ++
ori proton bai

My low temp issue is solved! It was caused by the thermo switch at the bottom of the radiator. I bought this RM38 and diy replaced it piece of cake. At the same time I just flushed the radiator and thankfully not much rust. Photo below is the old switch which I took out.



Now the fan kicks in at just below 2nd/middle notch which is correct, right?



After the coolant cools down a bit, the fan stops. and it starts again when I rev it. So I believe the old switch was sending the coolant too hot signal too early to the fan

So just change the thermo switch, RM38 only and easily diy but you'll need to replace some water/coolant as some will leak out. Make sure engine is COLD before doing this!

Hope this helps anyone out there facing same issue.


This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Jul 7 2011, 05:02 PM

Easy or not to open the plastic radiator clip at the bottom there? Mine a bit tight. Scare the clip will patah if I use force to open it.

sked patah gobuy from spare parts shop ready 1st
few buck only nee
easy but will patah or the thread will lari like mine

Opening that clip is enough to flush the water out right? Will try out tomorrow morning~

probably ur carburetor not properly tuned??... sound fierce is useless.... smooth rev is what we looking for...

me using TOTAL fully syn... in a healthy engine, there should not be much reduction in engine oil level even with hard revving.... mine dropped about 0.5cm (on dipstick) after 5000km....
where is this massive engine oil leaking problem coming from??... oil seals around ur engine or internal valve seal worn out??... visible leaks around ur engine block can be cheap and easy to repair...
worn out belting can cause squeaking noise... replace worn out belt and make sure ur mechanic tighten the belt to spec...
if oil spill onto ur belt, there should not be any noise... belt running dry with zero lub will squeak....

u mean the wiring connector to the fan switch??... press gently at the correct spot and pull... hold the socket and pull, not the wiring...
if it does not work, use 2 pliers, both gripping the socket...

as for removing the fan switch, use spanar size 24 (if not mistaken)... if dont have so big spanar, use locking plier to remove it... do not tighten the new fan switch in place too tight... or else u might damage the radiator or the fan switch...

The clip just pull out or need to twist? I'm not sure it's the socket or etc. All I know is that the clip is located at the bottom of the radiator there.

this LKC got proper equitment & tools........
can buka workshop liao

Ic. Im asking because i just thought of switching to fully synthetic after i've solve the leaking problem. It is a visible leaking around the exterior of the engine. It leaked so much that it spill on the floor. Sent to workshop today for repair seems like nothing major. Just change the gasket. Also had to change the aircond belt as it squeak pretty loud.

* about belting, i thought its all the way around. If the belt is slippery, it will slip and create the squeaking sound.

Carburetor throttle cable if like sticking how should i fix it??i tried spraying wd40 but still same....it won't go to 0 after stepping on the pedal have to manually use foot to lift it

pull out... got 2 type of fan switch... both same application, just the socket wiring different... 1 got 1 cable, directly cucuk to the switch... another one with 2 wire with proper socket... check ur radiator fan wiring before buying...

the clip pull, not twist...



no, switching to fully syn wont seal the leaking gap... u must find out the cause of the leak and repair it...
yes, it slips also create squeak.... but slip with lub wont create noise...

change new cable... shouldnt be expensive... throttle jammed open is very dangerous...

i know... but it sounded like 4G9 inside. coz one of my fren 4g92satria sounds similar.. really scary lo when i draged with him.. he tekan oso i shaking jor but i won la lol. isit coz of muffler affect the sound?

Ok tq sky.. Lyrodson use open pod lo if want fierce sound.. Or if you wan fiercer, make custom piping where the exhaust is located below the gear console there.

Not recommended WD40 as it dries up faster...use Silicone spray instead...

Im using Full Syn without any issues except my style of driving will cause me to change lube every 5k

like this ah ?
its the carb been modded before
local language called it tebuk carb
like mine stock exhaust even back box are stock 1.3 and no exhaust leaking
mine carb been mod by previous owner's porman where the air jet and fuel jet been modified hence the sound

This post has been edited by sinister_sid: Jul 7 2011, 11:00 PM

how i know ler... u say ur friend's car is 4g1x engine mar....

kaya siot budak nih...
me also using full syn... mileage reach 7000km start feels laggy d...

pls use GoProHD or contourHD if wanna record video next time...

temp switch cable is push/pull. there is a rubber covering over it so slide the rubber covering back, and gently pull on the socket. it should come out without too much efford. then i used an adjustable spanner to loosen the switch and then hand removed it. radiator coolant will leak out immediately so make sure it's not hot before you start.

For the radiator stopper, it's plastic so if you are not careful, yes you can break it. Buy one or two as spare, it only costs RM2 from spare parts shop.

If you're gonna do this tomorrow morning, better make sure you don't have to go anywhere far. Normally after you flush radiator, if you didn't get rid of all the air pockets the water level will drop after a short drive. So make sure you rev the engine a bit after filing water into radiator and get rid of the air pockets.

To be safe, drive short distances and then check the water level again (prob fill the spare tank instead of into radiator directly).

Good luck!