injection is more efficient, but to me the costs of outfitting the iswara with efi is just not worth the 'savings' you get from the slightly more efficient and better FC...

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system7.htm

when you increase the pressure, you are increasing the boiling point of the water in cooling system. i wouldn't mess around with the radiator cap if i were you, stick to the original spec, don't try to be funny use so called higher pressure cap.

if your cooling system is stock standard, and you change the cap to higher spec/higher pressure, somewhere else in your cooling system might not be able to handle the higher pressure and you wouldn't want any leaks elsewhere in your cooling system due to using the higher pressure cap!

seafood curry laksa to be precise... sorry off topic a bit but the soup is fantastic, i could drink all the soup but cholesterol sure koyak.

just google for "segambut yu ai" and you should find it. the radiator shop is at the corner lot same row as the seafood noodle shop (there are 2 seafood noodles shop along that same row)

comparing to stock iswara carb lah. lots more electronics involved in fuel injection, o2 sensors, precise fuel metering, etc etc which carbs generally don't have. you have super power aisan carb then good lah but he was asking about changing stock carb to efi, makes no cents to do so if idea is for improved FC..

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Added on July 18, 2011, 10:39 pmhaha yeah but that can't be mine, i didn't leave any box with them
i'm still waiting for them to call me, hopefully some time this week. told them to take their time, do a good job no rush.

This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Jul 18 2011, 10:39 PM

well don't buy that. cheap rm120 but i don't trust it. it really feels more like a toy than a radiator but that's probably because it has plastic top/bottom.

agree with notoriez best fuel saving device = right foot

i think i used the tab before (tablet put into fuel tank, right)? absolutely no difference, no effect, finally i threw away the rest, didn't even dare continue using them as i don't know what long term effects it causes to my engine.

This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Jul 19 2011, 07:10 AM

iswara fuel tank is 45 liters. you can probably pump even slightly more than 45 liters (think of petrol in the fuel lines, the tube going into the tank) but this is really pushing it to the limit

if you guys are interested to track the FC, why don't you do it proper way instead of pump RM50 i can go 350km, that is nowhere accurate and you're just getting rough figures.

can anyone with iswara aeroback 1.3 with standard 185/60r14 tyres tell me what is the manufacturer recommendation for tyre pressure? i know for 175/70R13 it's 180kpa but what about 185/60R14? thanks!!

Thanks! Is this the official recommendation in manual/door sticker?

hi all, can anyone please let me know at what temp level does the radiator fan kicks in? i did some radiator flushing and took out the thermostat (so that the water can flow through even when cold), and fixed everything back without the thermostat.

i noticed that with or without thermostat, the fan kicks in slightly above middle mark. isn't that too high? it's logical thermostat has got nothing to do with the radiator fan, but just wondering if anyone's iswara here has the fan kick in at 1st mark or below middle mark?? thanks!!

It is according to the sticker by the side of the door...

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Added on July 20, 2011, 9:09 pmUsing the same switch, last time it kicks in below middle mark when I was still using the ori radiator. Now i'm using the china kiosei radiator, it kicks in above the middle mark. Exact same switch, how come kick in at diff temperature? On highway drives, it creeps up to 1bar below hot! Scary. I though on highway drive with lots of airflow, the temp should drop. Maybe this china radiator is not very efficient in cooling.

I've just got back my radiator from the specialist. It looks brand new, they even stuck a sticker with their shop name on the radiator so hopefully it's good.

Will install it back later. Right now I'm trying to go through few rounds of radiator flush. Lots of rust. Just now some water got into the distributor cap and it couldn't start. Nearly panicked.

Btw, has anyone changed distributor cap and the spark plug cables? How much does the ori cost? Thinking of changing those too as I felt some hesitation occasionally when I accelerate. 12yrs is old enough for the cap and cables I guess?


This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Jul 20 2011, 09:11 PM

No thanks. Cables are wear and tear, if want to change, I'll change to new ones. What's the exact model/code for the Bosch and how much did they cost? Any difference?

how do you feel that the aeroback's rear is slightly heavier?? just by feel opening and closing the boot compared to sedan??

if yes, then this is quite simple isn't it? on a sedan, when you open the boot, you're only lifting a piece of metal. On the aeroback, you are lifting a far larger piece of metal + the rear glass as well. ever wondered why on the aeroback we have those 2 absorber thingy (which also contributes to the heavier feeling) and there is none on the sedan?

thanks man!! will update the sticker on my car door

wah, respect lah test like that!!!

I thought someone said rear boot is heavier, so one of the reason is because of the 2 boot absorbers which gives more resistance than the simple spring of the sedan rear boot. Opening the aeroback boot does feel like lifting a load of bricks compared to sedan, 1 finger can open already.

i installed back the radiator (2 layer), also installed back thermostat, still the normal running temp is slightly above mid mark. the needle is just barely touching the mid mark and the radiator fan triggers at this speed.

already put in toyota llc still same. something's wrong? could it be the thermo switch, the coolant temp sensor or even my temp meter gone crazy? maybe i need to take out the coolant temp sensor, dip into boiling hot water and see how high the meter goes....

But from cold start, shouldn't the temp go up to a certain normal operating temp? Even without driving... I'll try and drive it on highway sometime to test.. Anyone else getting temp at slightly above middle mark?

Your meter looks different from mine.... Mine's the iswara temp up down, not left right orientation. I'm a bit worried because previously fan triggered at 1/4 mark, then i change to new switch and it triggered below mid mark. Temp never go above mid. Now it's slightly above mid mark all the time...

So just want to know, what is the correct operating temp for this particular model of iswara. 1/4, below mid or above mid? Seems like there are 3 main ranges of operating temp??

ok, some update. i think my iswara temp case is just a matter of wrong reading by the coolant temp sensor (the small one near the thermostat). i changed that (rm15) and now everything looks normal! radiator fan kicks in below mid line. will monitor. here are some photos.

The radiator shop in Segambut:


Operating temp now, and when the fan kicks in:


The old coolant temp sensor (RM15 from spare part shop):


The repaired radiator installed (DIY!):


The radiator fins (this is the part they took out and replaced, 2 layer):


Will update later if anything negative. If not, assume all good

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Added on July 23, 2011, 2:01 pmmine absolutely no issues... crank 1-2 seconds started already. didn't do anything to the car, stock standard. maybe check distributor? take out the distributor cap (2 screws) then spray with WD40 maybe?

I had some water get into the distributor cap and recently took it out, sprayed with WD40. I assume WD40 is safe, so far no issues.

This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Jul 23 2011, 02:01 PM