I recently just changed to APM performax RM110 front, RM65 back plus a bit more for the absorber cover and mounting (excl. labour). I find it a bit stiff for comfort, but handling is quite good. I'm not a hard or aggressive driver though (past those stages already), just normal drive max 90-100km/h. Might be worth considering, and if you really want comfort, maybe the standard Monroe or Kayabas? Should be even cheaper than the Performax.

great... after i changed my thermostat, temp switch, radiator & carb hoses (one of them was clogged up by rust!!! - photos later) now my radiator is leaking. temp goes up to 3/4 and then hissing sound and later i can see steam coming out from the radiator side.

time to change the radiator. how good is the jasma aluminium radiator?? i called local spare part shop and quoted me RM120 only for local radiator but i'm asking for original now. wonder how much? anyone got recommendations on radiator? using denso black fan, so radiator needs to match this (spare part shop told me need to match, APM vs Denso)

you mean like this?

Jasma Aluminium Radiator for Saga Iswara

I don't know if mine is copper but there is a 20 sen rust spot by the side and steam was leaking out from there. Local spare part shop quoted me RM750 for the original denso radiator!!!! So expensive. It seems the radiator must be matched with the fan. If denso black fan, then denso radiator. If gold APM fan, then I guess APM radiator?

So the Jasma Aluminium radiator is good? Anyone using it for 1-2 yrs now and any problems/leaks/overheat?

btw, anyone here managed to insure their old iswara for less than 10k? i managed to insure 7k last year but this year i was told minimum sum insured is 10k..... if anyone got less than 10k, mind to share which insurance company? thanks.

thanks - will call and ask.

where to get these:
Hi Speed 12 blade red fan + aluminum custom fan shroud

I read the jasma aluminium may need modification to fit in iswara standard mounting. Is that true? I'm planning DIY, so if it doesn't fit, susah a bit..

I believe he's referring to the small red button, next to your steering wheel on the left. It's below your aircond button. To the right of your CD player/Aircond control.

i bought a radiator, box looks exactly like this. anyone using this radiator. very cheap, so just a bit concerned if it might fail on me.... still have my old radiator which has rust/leaking at the side. anyone know which shop i can send to try and repair? heard there are radiator specialists in segambut?



This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Jul 13 2011, 02:15 PM

this is it... looks a bit plasticky on top and bottom, but the fins seemed ok. maybe need to monitor this over next few months of usage or just buy the jasma. does the jasma fit to standard iswara mountings or need modifications??

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Added on July 13, 2011, 10:32 pmi believe it's around 3300-3500. this is assuming straight road, just to maintain the 100km/h and not trying to accelerate up a hill.

yep, agreed with catacombs, the rpm is gearbox ratio, not the engine. even if you change to 2l, with the same gearbox it will still be 3600rpm at 110km/h but boy will you have unbelievable power when you floor it

This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Jul 13 2011, 10:32 PM

a blast from the past!
Proton Iswara Specifications

You can see the gear ratios, just do some calculation with the 5th gear, final drive, and the overall circumference of the standard 175/70R13 tyre, and you can work out the speed of the car given any engine RPM I've did it before in the past and it was quite accurate but don't remember details, google will be your best friend here

you mean the top row and bottom row plastic end cap? yeah, that was my concern too and I believe that's why the price is so low. as long as there is no overheat then it's fine, but if overheat and plastic crack/melt.... habis..

i believe the ori is fully metal (whether copper or aluminium)... anyone used fully metal (copper or alu) radiators? how much do they cost? saw some selling the IRM 2 row/fully copper radiator here at LYN, anyone using those?

mind sharing where you bought it from? i might want to try that...

so far....
is it something like those listed in this WTS thread?
WTS Radiator

Proton Saga/Iswara 1.3/1.5 MT (IRM 2 layer Aluminium ) RM200
Proton Saga/Iswara 1.3/1.5 MT (IRM 2 layer Fully Copper) rm250
Proton Iswara 1.3/1.5 MT Ori APM 1row Copper RM300
Proton Iswara IRM Fully Copper 3 layer RM450

Perhaps the IRM 2 layer fully copper RM250??

what year is your 4g13?

if you look at the specs, it's not much difference:

1.3l engine model 4G13
Max output (DIN) 4G13 62kW @ 6000r/min
Max torque (DIN) 4G13 109Nm @ 4000r/min

1.5l engine model 4G15
Max output (DIN) 4G15 67kW @ 6000r/min
Max torque (DIN) 4G15 126Nm @ 4000r/min

how much would it cost to change engine to 4G15? then you have that risk of not knowing how good the 4G15 is compared to your current 4G13 which is generally ok except not so powerful you say?

i've driven saga 1.5manual before (first batch) and also iswara 4g13. don't think there's a big difference in power unless you are really driving the car to the edge

yeah, year 2000 car means 11 yrs old already. for 1.5k to 2.5k with the unknown condition of the 4G15 compared to stable 4G13, personally for me, i would not do it. save the $$ better.

if want more power, i guess later consider change car to some 1.6 or 1.8 cars

it's possible you can feel it (is this is called butt dyno? ), but the most scientific way would be to measure 0-100km/h and rolling 60-100km/h under exactly same conditions, same driver. then only you can compare and see the diff.

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Added on July 14, 2011, 10:02 pmthis radiator is NOT GOOD. do not buy it. it has plastic top and bottom. so one big big big problem is that your radiator fan will never turn on if you use this without extra wiring. reason is because the temp switch at the bottom of the radiator needs to be in contact with the radiator housing (metal/copper) so that it's a complete circuit.

i had to get wireman to properly wire the temp switch. even now, temp is slightly above the middle mark which i believe is too hot? it should be slightly below the middle mark, right?

maybe really need to go look for a real proper copper radiator... or repair my old one.

This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Jul 14 2011, 10:02 PM

grounding is there.

here's the issue, everything plugged in.
start engine, run it till temp mid mark.
fan DOES NOT kick in.
stop engine. take out cable from fan to temp sensor at bottom.
connect negative terminal batt to temp sensor wire from fan.
fan STARTS spinning (car keys turn to ON first of course)
wireman come and look.
see the radiator. immediately said this radiator no good. plastic.
i looked at the temp switch..

if you look very closely and compare the length of the switch vs the radiator depth, you'll notice that after installing the switch, it will probably touch the other outer side of the radiator. if you look at the switch carefully, there is insulating material between the switch itself and the cable connector.

wireman took some wire, did some wiring and behold the fan comes on!!

so i suspect that the temp switch inside the radiator was not touching any metal part of the radiator to complete the circuit (surelah, radiator bottom is plastic!!). wireman did some wiring to connect the inner part of the switch to metal part of radiator or body.

anyway, long story cut short, don't buy those plastic top/bottom radiators.

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Added on July 14, 2011, 11:26 pmnormal one, single wire. not a problem with the fan switch. it's the radiator bottom. if anyone is using radiator with plastic top/bottom and could get the radiator fan to start automatically when hot without special rewiring at the temp switch, i would like to know

This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Jul 14 2011, 11:26 PM

so there is a 2 wire switch.... spare part shop never mentioned this. interesting.

stick to ori. that's the best in my opinion.

i sent my old radiator to specialist in segambut, get them to clean and change the middle part (the evaporator fins). changing to dual layer copper. quoted me rm280 for it.

cooling system - you can change all these if you want:

1. water pump
2. top and bottom hose
3. carb hose x 2
4. another u shaped hose
5. radiator service/replace
6. temp switch at bottom of radiator if not working properly
7. water temp sensor if you think you're not getting correct reading on your dashboard. this sensor is near the thermostat housing. smaller than #6 above.

what else, can't think. radiator fan i suppose should be quite lasting?

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Added on July 16, 2011, 1:50 pm

totally agree. iswara is not a complex car. learn some diy yourself and you'll enjoy the ride much more. try to use ori parts if possible, i laugh reading the taxi driver story in paultan.org where he complain changing the speedo cable donno how many times but he's using some oem cable RM12 or so? surelah.... use back the ori cable and it should last longer i guess.

other cars will cost you equally if not more in terms of maintenance. even for 'mid' class sedans like vios/city, the cost of maintenance is much higher.


This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Jul 16 2011, 01:50 PM

speedo cable is very very easy to replace. i bought the ori part, i think rm30.

1. then you unscrew one end from gearbox
2. remove 4 screws to take out the meter outside 'cover', you will need to slowly pry out the 4 switches on the outside cover, be careful do it slowly.
3. remove another 4 screws to take out the meter itself
4. you don't even need to see behind the meter, just feel for the speedo cable and remove it. it has a small latch, so press on the latch and then take it out - pull it out from the engine bay side.
5. then from the engine bay side, push in the other end of the cable and from inside check where it is. it should be somewhere above your clutch cable where it enters the car interior.
6. direct the cable and plug into your speedometer, you can just push it in and you should hear or feel a click as the latch locks the cable in place.

i have never changed the speedo cable before, but i managed it first time and finished it in less than 30 mins.

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Added on July 16, 2011, 10:30 pmabout the radiator, you can drop by the shop and see. it's in segambut, next to segambut seafood noodles for those who know (love the curry laksa, but RM15 per bowl is really steep). they have the 2 layer core which they can show you. i noticed the spacing between the 'channels' is bigger than ori, means less channels but it's 2 layer so hopefully that helps.

quoted me rm90 to clean/repair actually but later called me to say too old/damaged to repair. they can try, but it may leak again. so suggested to change the core if i really still want to use it. so i thought i'll give it a try.

will update once i get it. now my temp is slightly above mid mark since using the china rm120 radiator lol

This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Jul 16 2011, 10:30 PM