Yup. Very nice place with very little que for honda cars

Bro thanks for calling....

Although most owner here would say yes, i would say no...

U will have to re-learn to view the meters in front of driver rather than on center of dashboard

If u're too use to the softly sprung vios (with significant body-roll when cornering), Insight spring are firmer. I afraid u will take corner faster than before and facing higher chance to overshoot.

When the car almost overshoot, the VSA will kick in to stabilize the car. Since u're not use to VSA, u might be surprise with the VSA indication (some beeps sound and indicator light blinking) and it would make u panic.

Other than that, when drive normally u will find the Insight auto climate control with multi direction blower mode set to leg, your leg will be chilled. Even worst, there were air-duct under front seats channeling cold air to your passenger. Passenger leg also cold....

U could felt too comfortable and loose your focus on highway when u set the cruise control and both leg free while cruising.

The worst reason for all of us, after few years and done with this car, we could only buy cars with very low fc coz we've already used to fill-less travel-more. U could have this issue also.

*this is my longest sarcastic comment ever. Go get it.

Honda charge few ringgit extra for schedule maintenance, dunno why.

IMA system is considered maintenance free unless its time for battery change which cost around 7K, estimated after 10 years based on 1st gen Insight owners worldwide (refer insightcentral).

I think most of us, Insight owners put a pretty much high bet on a well known 'Japanese reliability'. Indeed.
If not because of my oldman's car 1984 Datsun Sunny 130y still running after 27 years, his ex5 running 1 whole year without oil change, my former cars all japs gone through severe trashing in my early days of driving and survived, I wouldn't buy Insight if not because of these experience....

In term of maintenance, its the same as other cars + IMA battery cost every 10 years or so.

9. Insight engine + road noise very obvious
- If u're living in Europe, yes u could argue with that since european/western cars were very well sorted. But if u compare it even with CKD japan model here, Insight NVH is excellent for the price paid.
By the way, test driving Prius recently (just for fun), the NVH is just about similar to Insight. Engine roar is still there when revved hard, wheels wobbles on uneven road. Making the Insight much better value when compare the price.
+ point for prius was stealth take-off (run on full batt).

---

Added on June 15, 2011, 2:34 pmhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tizG_u5ZIio

Nice white Insight in the video....
Makes me feel nice owning one

This post has been edited by watonk: Jun 15 2011, 02:34 PM

Guys, remember that Insight free service comes with semi syn oil...

Coz some honda technician/mech still thought that all free service have to use mineral oil

This post has been edited by watonk: Jun 17 2011, 04:27 PM

Do you notice that the aircond also colder when econ off? I bet its not due to the blower alone. I think the compressor duration also longer when econ off.

If i may put it correctly, the temperature difference is almost 3 degree celcius.

For me its a combination of '0' tax (though HM making more profit out of it), CBU, Fuel economy and best of all, trying to preserve the world for future generation....

199Nm of torque. That is better than Camry 2.0 u know.. somemore Insight have lighter body...

I'm not that technically sound but imho, shift to 'S' for rapid acceleration is better than stays at 'D'.
Our CVT are using clutch pack at its driven pulley. It doesnt use torque converter at input shaft. This setup helps improve efficiency by eliminating power loss at torque converter and improve smoothness.
However, dragging the car at D will results more 'slips' on its hydraulic control clutch packs as the computer will always try to get its highest infinite ratio and at the same time increases load on its belting.
While S will limit the gearbox to its lower ratio hence better pickup, less clutch slips and less load on belting. That was also the reason why they recommend us to shift to L for extreme climbing.

2 types of failure in City CVT last time was worn belting (though it steel) and worn clutch packs. And most of the CVTbox failure were happened to earlier batch City which Honda Malaysia themselves mistakenly use normal ATF during service that time (back in 2003-2004).

Hope they've already learn their lesson...

Turanza softer compound = quieter, worn faster
Dunlop 2030 harder sidewall = noisier but fun at corners

Sure or not? Out of thousand parts on the car, how come the core part ie. battery can be left out?
They might be waiting for the carpet. I notice the carpet were courtesy of honda malaysia (got tag below).

Mudflaps: source the Jazz/Fit mudflaps. Its about ngam.
Boot tray: Original Honda rm400
Side step: Original Honda rm300 plus labour (without labour rm280)
Steering leather wrap: Cheaper if you bring to your nearest seat wrapping/interior shop, ask them to wrap. Around rm80 i heard. Not yet doing mine.

---

Added on June 19, 2011, 12:40 amInteresting....
U go for which package?

This post has been edited by watonk: Jun 19 2011, 12:40 AM

The aircond compressor switched off due to engine stop when idle (auto-stop mode). Econ mode 'on' will extend auto-stop duration. The blower still operate but at minimum speed when climate control set at 'auto'.
Cooling gradually reduced after sometimes (depend on outside temperature). To override, simply pull handbrake and release brake pedal. Engine will restart then.


For the time being only avail at honda. Outside shops usually will have their own version aftermarket sidestep, later (usually made from stainless steel or aluminum).

No, S is useful for rapid acceleration only, or if u wanna maintain 'power-on-tap' at speed below 100kmh or so.
If you're overtaking on highways, at speed around 110-120kmh, yes u can momentarily shift to S, but once the speed stabilize (130-140 etc), shift back to D. The objective shifting to S is to prevent excessive 'slips' on the clucth pack & belting. Once speed stabilized, the rpm will so called 'locked' to certain rpm at D.

If my observation is correct and based on your picture, that white dust were forming at the high pressure fuel line (towards injector). Might be due to some evaporation there. High pressure line will form some external moisture and the moisture could immediately evaporated due to very high temp, leaving some marks of oxide. I didnt worry if we all have that. Also the corrosion below that cylinder-shape part with wiring (left part of the engine)..

Yes it runs on battery ONLY. At speed around 25-50kmh, very light on pedal. The i-vtec mechanism going to idle mode, all valves will completely immobilized, all 4 cylinders will equalize their pumping sequence and leaving only electric motor driving the crankshaft. There will be slight 'jerk' or 'lurch' when the engine going to battery mode only or return to normal mode. The only way to know that is through battery/fuel mapping on the MID, or seeing the 'assist' needle going up without much pressure on accelerator. But if u can listen carefully, there's also slight change on engine/exhaust note.

Me so far never had problem with the alarm system. red led blinking when locked.

121+78=199

At least its the theory...

Motor and engine indeed working simultaneously. Notice the assist needle went up together with engine rpm under full acceleration?
That graph might be showing on wheel hp and torque rather than crank output.

---

Added on June 20, 2011, 12:23 amYup. blinking.

This post has been edited by watonk: Jun 20 2011, 12:23 AM

I dont think honda was stupid enough for publishing combined max torque figure @ 199nm and at the same time contradict themselves with dynograph showing max torque 170nm only....

14% is about right considering transmission + rolling resistance loss

After all, its a dyno graph. Usually done on-wheel.

S, according to user manual it means 'second', according to fanboy it means 'sport'.

There....
Maximum Torque (Nm[kg-m]) : 121[12.3] + 78[8.0] (Engine + Electric Motor)
Wasn't 121Nm+78Nm=199Nm

http://www.honda.com.my/insight/detail/specifications/

Silver colour blends with the front bumper 'silverish' colour. That bumper highlights Insight front looks. When the colour blends, looks like a normal City...

I would say silver looks nice from side or quarter view...

The main objective of sandwiching electric motor between engine and transmission was to fill the torque gap at lower rpm (1500-4000). I believe they've achieved that target by giving Insight enough poke to keep up with the traffic + getting good fuel economy. 199nm is figure for Insight owners to boast around or 'keepin up with the Kardashians'

As torque is not the same at every point in a drive train, and considering friction at WOT etc, i leave the actual max torque figure to Honda.

The most important thing is, output of this ice + ima is good enough for daily use, + smoke unsuspecting driver with bigger cc.

---

Added on June 20, 2011, 2:23 pmAnybody getting this?

This post has been edited by watonk: Jun 20 2011, 02:23 PM

1st service, no oil & filter
2nd service, semi syn oil, no filter
3rd service, semi syn oil + filter

I tought our Insight headlamp already half-smoke...

1 tips... maximize your momentum....
However i believe its hard to do if u always play around kl....

Second that. FC almost double

Which topic? lets go there pour some fuel

Later down the road, someone will come up with diy steps to address the problem. Malaysian always can improve japanese product

My last ride 8884...... rich til die...

Which means we will have to drive even slower?

Thinking of doing 'something' in your car?

The auto-stop mode will evaluate this data before commence:
-Inside-outside temperature differences when aircond switched on.
-Engine temperature (if cold it wont auto-stop).
-Exceed certain speed (14kmh if not mistaken) when we first move the car.
-Its raining outside or not (engine will turn on much faster to maintain aircond= prevent mist build-up on windscreen).
-It lasted maximum 90 seconds only
-Immediate restart upon release brake pedal
-IMA battery charge level
-No auto-stop in R or P

I think we all concern on how matching the colour will be. Coz got some forumers kitted unmatched colour. (bodykit white was a bit blueish)

Need to fully pressed the brake pedal to optimize the creep aid system. Need to train at your nearest ramp

As easy as shift to N, pull handbrake and release brake pedal