QUOTE(StarGhazzer @ Sep 28 2011, 06:07 PM)
My bad if my previous post seems like a criticism towards you, but trust me that wasn't my intention. And since you've modified your car by making it lighter, your FC achievements aren't exactly the benchmark for stock Fortes.
Unfortunately for you and I, there's pretty much no way we can achieve a 600km range in full urban conditions. The best I've got in full city driving including lots of jams is approx 480km (stock 4-speed auto 2.0L). Even that's pushing it a bit... I top up when I reach 420-430km even though the computer will show a distance-to-empty of around 60-80km (I don't trust it).
The point I'm trying to make is, being obsessed about achieving the best mileage by constantly focusing on the instant FC gauge can be distracting. A better way is to learn the torque ranges of our Forte's engine and ensure that you're always in the right rpm and right gear.
I'm not sure about your Forte, but my stock 4 speed 2.0L in auto mode upshifts very early to save fuel.
If I want to maintain optimum torque through the revs I'd have to manually upshift late, usually around 3K rpm; which if you look at the instant FC gauge you'll hit >10L/100km in most speeds until you achieve smooth cruising in 4th.
If I'm insistent on controlling my right foot to ensure the FC gauge doesn't go above 10L/100km most of the time, I'll be upshifting too early and lose a lot of power.
Again, no offence intended. We're all sharing ways on how to bring out the best enjoyment from our rides.
Well, I'm not the best gauge for a 6-speeder lol... Then again, the point that I was trying to get across was that one can have loads of fun and still have a decent (not best) FC. IMO the items I mentioned that were changed on my car do not impact FC as much as it does performance. For long outstation runs, maybe, but being faced with a wall of cars five days a week, and doing short runs most of the time, I think I'm doing ok. Not to mention redlining every other day

Besides, lighter wheels are good for acceleration but not so good for long distance runs as they tend to lose momentum faster. Those electronic gizmos? I don't think they work too well below 3,000 rpm lol... Same goes to the aftermarket filter. Lower rpms only need that much CFM of air flow, so it's not meant to be a fuel saving upgrade, rather a go-faster add-on.
Since we're on the topic of sharing, here's what I do. I don't like to remain in low gears for long, neither does the car lol... I don't accelerate too gently, just fast enough to engage the next gear asap. I maintain steady throttle, which in lower gears the "Instant" meter will show me at around 14-15l/100km. Within 10 secs or so, I'm already on 6th, doing about 70-80km/h. At this point, I ease off the throttle to cruise at 80-90km/h, while feathering the throttle to keep speeds up. The Instant meter will then be showing between 4-6l/100km. I try to keep this speed or sometimes when the road opens up I go further to 100-110km/h. This can be done with less fuel consumed. I usually maintain throttle pressure such that the Instant meter is reading 10l/100km until I reach my desired speed. Then it's back to 4-6l/100km. My contention is the longer you remain at a lower Instant reading, the less fuel you will use. I've been able to maintain a steady 5l/100km at speeds of up to 120km/h on the Federal H/way. Imagine driving like that all the way to Penang, the FC would be phenomenal! The best tank I had so far was 8.3l/100km, still fully urban driving but I only redlined once throughout the tank. Ya, I need to grow up lol...
Same goes to uphill climbs. It's actually very hard to keep the Instant reading below 10l/100km while climbing as the car is not a featherweight (neither am I!). I reckon that 15 secs at 15l/100km is less taxing than 30 secs at 10l/100km. Also, by maintaining a higher climb speed, forward momentum is greater than gravity, which helps the car along rather than being in a lower gear and dragging the car uphill.
Sorry if I sounded harsh for that is not my intention either. I guess I didn't give enough information and that may have led you to think that I was suggesting to keep the Instant reading low all the time. It's just that with the Instant reading, I was able to study the engine's behaviour and how the ECU governs fuel delivery. For instance, I'm able to tell at what speeds the injectors are totally shut off while cruising to a stop. It's actually quite fun to see that gauge go to 0l/100km, it's like even better than a Hybrid! Free miles and smiles
Why I brought this up is because many drivers tend to shift to Neutral when coming to a stop. Or, if you were driving too slow before releasing the throttle, the car won't shut off the fuel at all. The moment the gears are disengaged, the engine needs to find other means to keep from stalling, hence fuel is used. Keeping the car in gear, momentum drives the engine, therefore, no fuel is needed at that point. This I believe, is only a fairly recent development (prolly only the last 8yrs or so). Older EFI cars (no need to mention carbies) tend to feed the engine regardless of cruising to a stop or otherwise. I've found that to enjoy a longer fuel cutoff period, my car has to be cruising from 80km/h or faster. With a downhill gradient, I can get it to cutoff even at 60km/h. Downshifting to 5 or 4 helps. For clarity's sake, cruising means taking my foot off the throttle and letting the car's forward momentum keep the car moving, while keeping the car in gear.
Anyway thanks for your clarification and hope to share more nuggets of common wisdom with you

Peace.