I did not replace the subwoofer volume control cable, but the subwoofer cable I used cat5e for it, multiple strand but fits in the PCB hole.

^ Cosef, okei got it!

---

Sifus, the M3300sf's volume control is really bloody sensitive.
Just about 3mm turn to the right from minimums and it's at normal listening level.
Plus there is some form of channel imbalance inside the first 5mm turn radius from minimum.
More than that no imbalance but it's too loud

Any modification can be done to lower the sensitivity & channel imbalance? Eg, Another potentiometer? any examples?
Uhh, in case anyone's wondering why I can't use any form volume control in the OS(Lubuntu), the system has been set up to be bit-exact so there's no volume control. Previous speakers not that sensitive

http://my.element14.com/jsp/search/browse....matchallpartial
I guess the first thing is to get a measurement of the current resistance and choose something higher? What's the best way to measure? Any ill effect of different resistance etc? How would I select the other options? Shaft, voltage, power, mounting etc...


This post has been edited by andrew9292: Feb 13 2014, 12:15 AM

recommend me less than rm100 headphone WITH MIC

FYI all of Edifier's communicator headsets are below Rm100, but do have a go at the K800 series

Today is a good day. Completed the first part of the modifications to my M3300sf today......

All capacitors are changed as per the list at the previous page with the exception of 2 big power filter capacitors due to slow shipping.
Opamps are OPA2123P.

No joke, not kidding, bukan main-main...
It sounds really different as that forward-ness and hot high frequencies are quite tamed now although still burning in (if you believe in it).
Other stuff will be as usual, better sound stage & layering. Thicker, centered and 'in your face' vocals.
Much better details, some songs have a slight reverb or background instruments/notes/sounds that can't be heard on the original non-modded speaker.
Wasn't wrong about the OPA2132, it's warm and really wide in a very natural way, it's bass is big & natural-throaty plus it punches the chest.
Though it doesn't sound as 'clean' as i thought it would be, probably cause the power caps are still stock
As always, after modification the basic conclusion is "this is music" with a wide smile

Second round awaiting, the pending UHE caps, & change the internal interconnect cables + do something about the volume control (too loud & channel imbalance at start of turn). Maybe have send out for resistor modding cuz im color blind

Some pictures. No pictures of the process, was too concentrated and forgot to take some... sorry, phone cam.

All the stuffs arrived


It's Done! Front view


Back view
(I accidentally partially lifted some trace and had to reroute some of the solder joints to the nearest common joint. The metal pin connecting in the middle and the U-shaped pin. This happened when i was using the only solder iron+sucker, had to press hard on the board.)


Was fool not using this for my previous mods. It made things so easy, if I didn't try to be a hero and actually used this all the way today, those traces wont be lifted. Haih

This post has been edited by andrew9292: Feb 13 2014, 09:14 PM

Glad the modifications worked out fine...

Those original big main filter/smoothing capacitors ("Unite" brand) are crap anyway and bound to fail sometime later (which mine did). Once the HE series capacitors are installed, you will notice the amplifier's own noise level especially humming, crackling and hissing will go down significantly.

I think that's because you've put the iron in that spot for too long, which can cause the trace to detach (as the heat from the iron melts the glue holding the copper trace to the board). Rarely use that solder wick, except for surface mount jobs...

This post has been edited by lex: Feb 13 2014, 09:41 PM

Don't know how long it would take to arrive. Probably months.lol
Yep plus I apply pressure on the joint after the solder melted. Hands very shaky if no pressure Love the braid tho, very clean job.

Can't help much on lowering the sensitivity, but might possible if adding resistor or trimmer on the input signal path to ground in the amplifier to work as a voltage divider for further reducing the input voltage level.

Nice to hear your mod work well, soldering wick always my best friend when modding or repairing.

My M3300 amp mod few years back

EDIFIER wishing our fans a very happy Valentine's Day today and throughout the rest of your life!




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Offering the best in design and audio, Edifier® is proud to announce that it has been awarded with the 2014 iF Design Award for the e25 Luna Eclipse 2.0 Bluetooth speaker system. For over six decades, the iF Design awards have recognized outstanding achievements in design and engineering. The highly acclaimed international reputation of the iF Design awards is, not least, due to the top-class level of the entries. Contestants for this award have been judged by a pre-eminent panel of 49 experts and renowned designers from all over the world to honor outstanding design and engineering




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what is the solution to a broken one then ?

There are some solutions, such as bypassing all digital controls, and changing them to analog controls. Anyway, what was wrong with the controller in the first place? Currently can the controller be used to switch on the speaker system?

This post has been edited by lex: Feb 18 2014, 03:39 AM

It can be used to turn on the speaker, but the knob can't crank the volume up. it is stuck at zero volume.

KitGuru.net takes on the Luna Eclipse e25 really hope can get my hands on them

http://www.kitguru.net/peripherals/henry-b...peakers-review/

anywhere i can buy the replacement earpads for my hd850?

already broken on the left side

That means the MCU inside still functioning. Could be just the rotary encoder that is spoiled. Cannot be fully determined properly until examined closely.

Can i take it to you for repair ?

The ON/OFF function is usually controlled by the MCU (which actually toggles the standby pins on the power amplifier I.Cs from standby to active mode). And your location? At the moment quite busy with a number of repairs as well...

Inter-Asia LIKE SHARE AND WIN Contest start now!!!

1) LIKE Inter-Asia Page - www.facebook.com/InterAsia

2) LIKE and SHARE this image with comment / status write.
eg: I love EDIFIER

We will pick a winner on 25th March 2014.
Prize - Edifier iF600 (http://www.edifier-international.com/products/edifier-image/breathe)
Good luck everyone!

This post has been edited by Edifier: Feb 25 2014, 01:07 PM


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Looking for a 2.0 setup about RM300-400.

Anyone knows what's the difference between R2000, R1900TIII, and R2500?
Similar price, similar wattage, but bass driver is larger on R2000 - from what I gather from different ppl they all sound relatively balanced. So which should I go for?
Also, anywhere I can test these before choosing?