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 Edifier Speaker/Headphone Fan Club V6, Come & Join Our May 2013 Contest! :)

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lex
post Oct 9 2013, 04:06 PM

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QUOTE(skeith @ Oct 8 2013, 10:39 PM)
looking for a decent edifier 2.1 speaker for my computer.

my budget is 200~250RM.

tried M3200 in PCDEPOT (RM199), not bad, but my ear told me that the ALTEC LANSING VS4621 (RM249) has clearer bass then M3200. I know this is not a fair fight with that price gap, but I wanna know if I can get anything decent then VS4621 with 250 or not.
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Clearer bass, or more booming bass? With that budget, you may want to also look at others like Edifier M3400, Edifier M3300SF or Edifier M3300... hmm.gif

QUOTE(ktek @ Oct 9 2013, 09:26 AM)
m3200 side port, require proper positioning.
vs4621 front port, put anywhere can perform
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Not really true. Subwoofers are omni-directional (in other words, not direction specific) and usually sub-bass frequencies radiates everywhere (ambient effect). Thus usually subwoofer positioning has little or no effect at all. Putting it next to a wall can have even more effect with bass reflections. wink.gif

This post has been edited by lex: Oct 9 2013, 04:08 PM
lex
post Nov 14 2013, 03:16 AM

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QUOTE(commanderz @ Nov 14 2013, 12:07 AM)
anyone using edifier c6xd speaker??...the problem of the speaker is very low of sound volume and need to set above 35-40 only have good sound...max volume of the speaker is just 50 capped only...
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Please specify the audio connection used, whether its optical or analog. Does this happen with all media players, from music to movies? Also have you checked the master volume on your machine? hmm.gif

This post has been edited by lex: Nov 14 2013, 03:16 AM
lex
post Nov 15 2013, 03:58 PM

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QUOTE(commanderz @ Nov 15 2013, 10:07 AM)
yep...my master volume is maxed....and tested on optical and analog also....most of the time happen in Games....even i set everything to max...
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Did you set the in-game volume controls as well? By the way, which integrated HD audio, or soundcard are you using? unsure.gif
lex
post Feb 12 2014, 12:10 AM

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QUOTE(andrew9292 @ Feb 10 2014, 10:00 PM)
Gonna modify M3300sf guys... Opened up and made a list. Any suggestions on what's good?
Should i leave the capacitance stock or bump up on which ones?
I remembered increasing the capacitance on some caps, can get better stability... which one would that be?

50v @ 10uf x 7 units - Replace w/ Pana FC
50v @ 2.2uf x 2 units - Replace w/ Nichicon KA
50v @ 47uf x 2 units - Replace w/ Pana FC
50v @ 22uf x 2 units - Replace w/ Pana FC
25v @ 4700uf x 2 units - Replace w/ Nichicon UHE
Most of the capacitors I've used are not Panasonic FC series. For those in the audio path I've used mostly Nichicon FG (Fine Gold) series, but Nichicon KA would do very well also. Also those 2.2uF ones, I used instead 10uF also. Forget those 47uF capacitors used for decoupling duties and replace them with at least 100uF or higher. On my unit I've used 120uF Nichicon HE. And for that 22uF capacitors in the power amplifier side, I've used Panasonic FM instead. Not sure how well Panasonic FC will perform there, but should be about the same... wink.gif

QUOTE(andrew9292 @ Feb 10 2014, 10:00 PM)
ST4558 x 2 units - Replace w/ OPA2134
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Alternatively there's NE5532 which would be clean sounding and precise. Anyway both are pretty good opamps. Do tell us the result after this change... icon_rolleyes.gif

This post has been edited by lex: Feb 12 2014, 12:13 AM
lex
post Feb 13 2014, 09:39 PM

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QUOTE(andrew9292 @ Feb 13 2014, 08:53 PM)
Today is a good day. Completed the first part of the modifications to my M3300sf today...... rclxms.gif rclxm9.gif

All capacitors are changed as per the list at the previous page with the exception of 2 big power filter capacitors due to slow shipping.
Opamps are OPA2123P.

No joke, not kidding, bukan main-main...
It sounds really different as that forward-ness and hot high frequencies are quite tamed now although still burning in (if you believe in it).
Other stuff will be as usual, better sound stage & layering. Thicker, centered and 'in your face' vocals.
Much better details, some songs have a slight reverb or background instruments/notes/sounds that can't be heard on the original non-modded speaker.
Wasn't wrong about the OPA2132, it's warm and really wide in a very natural way, it's bass is big & natural-throaty plus it punches the chest.
Though it doesn't sound as 'clean' as i thought it would be, probably cause the power caps are still stock
As always, after modification the basic conclusion is "this is music" with a wide smile cool.gif
Glad the modifications worked out fine... thumbup.gif

QUOTE(andrew9292 @ Feb 13 2014, 08:53 PM)
Second round awaiting, the pending UHE caps, & change the internal interconnect cables + do something about the volume control (too loud & channel imbalance at start of turn). Maybe have send out for resistor modding cuz im color blind brows.gif

Some pictures. No pictures of the process, was too concentrated and forgot to take some... sorry, phone cam.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
It's Done! Front view
Those original big main filter/smoothing capacitors ("Unite" brand) are crap anyway and bound to fail sometime later (which mine did). Once the HE series capacitors are installed, you will notice the amplifier's own noise level especially humming, crackling and hissing will go down significantly. brows.gif

QUOTE(andrew9292 @ Feb 13 2014, 08:53 PM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

Back view
(I accidentally partially lifted some trace and had to reroute some of the solder joints to the nearest common joint. The metal pin connecting in the middle and the U-shaped pin. This happened when i was using the only solder iron+sucker, had to press hard on the board.)

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
Was fool not using this for my previous mods. It made things so easy, if I didn't try to be a hero and actually used this all the way today, those traces wont be lifted. Haih
*
I think that's because you've put the iron in that spot for too long, which can cause the trace to detach (as the heat from the iron melts the glue holding the copper trace to the board). Rarely use that solder wick, except for surface mount jobs... wink.gif

This post has been edited by lex: Feb 13 2014, 09:41 PM
lex
post Feb 18 2014, 03:38 AM

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QUOTE(nabelon @ Feb 18 2014, 12:21 AM)
what is the solution to a broken one then ?
*
There are some solutions, such as bypassing all digital controls, and changing them to analog controls. Anyway, what was wrong with the controller in the first place? Currently can the controller be used to switch on the speaker system? unsure.gif

This post has been edited by lex: Feb 18 2014, 03:39 AM
lex
post Feb 22 2014, 07:24 PM

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QUOTE(nabelon @ Feb 18 2014, 02:04 PM)
It can be used to turn on the speaker, but the knob can't crank the volume up. it is stuck at zero volume.
*
That means the MCU inside still functioning. Could be just the rotary encoder that is spoiled. Cannot be fully determined properly until examined closely. hmm.gif

lex
post Feb 24 2014, 01:24 PM

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QUOTE(nabelon @ Feb 23 2014, 11:30 PM)
Can i take it to you for repair ? notworthy.gif
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The ON/OFF function is usually controlled by the MCU (which actually toggles the standby pins on the power amplifier I.Cs from standby to active mode). And your location? At the moment quite busy with a number of repairs as well... sweat.gif
lex
post Mar 3 2014, 10:02 PM

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QUOTE(nabelon @ Feb 27 2014, 01:21 AM)
Im in ipoh atm.
*
Seems too far (to have a look/check), as I'm located in KL... sweat.gif

QUOTE(andrew9292 @ Mar 2 2014, 03:28 AM)
Sifus, any idea on how to open M3300SF satellites for some mods? I believe there is some kind of crossover/capacitor inside...
It seems to be some kind of clip on / glued enclosure... totally no screws... rclxub.gif
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QUOTE(andrew9292 @ Mar 2 2014, 04:00 PM)
Can't do it bro... If it was 3 piece design (front, back + face), then the face must be glued to the front i think. Can open the enclosure from the side and see that it split into 2... but it seems there's something inside holding it together...
*
Similar to M3300 model, you may have to remove the grill first (have to pull it out from side to side) and look for screws holding down both halves of the satellite enclosure... hmm.gif


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