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 Edifier Speaker/Headphone Fan Club V6, Come & Join Our May 2013 Contest! :)

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andrew9292
post Jan 30 2014, 10:30 PM

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Just got a M3300-SF today rclxms.gif Good stuff!
Really nice sound as always from Edifier, imo nothing can it beat for the same price.

In some departments cant beat previously modified cheap and tiny M1380 though
Aish. Shouldn't poison myself, now buy any production speaker gonna have to void warranty + extra spending sweat.gif
Cosef
post Feb 2 2014, 02:54 AM

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Run it in like mad, it will soon beat it laugh.gif
nabelon
post Feb 3 2014, 09:46 PM

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anybody here know where i can get the s4.1 volume controller ?
TSEdifier
post Feb 4 2014, 04:45 PM

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QUOTE(nabelon @ Feb 3 2014, 09:46 PM)
anybody here know where i can get the s4.1 volume controller ?
*
Due to the IC manufacturer stop producing the IC used by S4.1, Edifier cannot produce S4.1 replacement controller anymore.
skylinelover
post Feb 4 2014, 07:51 PM

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QUOTE(power911 @ Jan 24 2014, 01:23 PM)
Broken link?

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=664...&type=1&theater

sadness to those who doesn't have a girlfriend thou
*
i am still single and enjoying life 2 the fullest laugh.gif valentines is overrated in my book whistling.gif nothing more than just 4 the cut throat profit gain only doh.gif
Duckies
post Feb 5 2014, 09:15 PM

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Eh, I connect my C3 to the monitor...no sound??

EDIT: Oh, solved adi. Is there any software to like...play a certain profile with a touch of a button? Like press Shift + Page Key will give a profile of Bass 7 Treble 2

This post has been edited by Duckies: Feb 5 2014, 09:52 PM
Langiler
post Feb 7 2014, 06:18 AM

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Hi guys

I just wondering is the Edifier H850 sound par with C3? or atlease with Logitech Z313.

Just audition the h850 at Midvally pc fair last January, but i cant test it with my own audio, seriously come on la Edifier, i cant audit it base on K-Pop music alone...



My Music genre is mixed,
J-Pop, Jazz, Bossa, pop, some rock, orchestra, oriental music n war drum, trance n techno

My last rm100 Sony MDR perform in between C3 and Z313, the high and mid is ok, the bass is mid tho, but this headphone have adjustable bass port, soo if i want more bass i could flip the lever, but after 4 years of heavy use, it died.

Duckies
post Feb 8 2014, 07:04 PM

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Hey guys, do u all use some software to set a profile for the bass and treble?
andrew9292
post Feb 8 2014, 09:48 PM

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QUOTE(Edifier @ Feb 4 2014, 04:45 PM)
Due to the IC manufacturer stop producing the IC used by S4.1, Edifier cannot produce S4.1 replacement controller anymore.
*
M3300sf controller has a split cable for 3.5mm connection as an input.
There is another Aux input at the volume controller housing itself.

I have a problem where im using a laptop and the split input is too far from it. I believe it was designed to be close to the sub which will be close to a pc casing on a floor, not a laptop on the table.

Hence im going to use the aux input and this split input is picking up some noise.
I notice the pin is simillar to M3400 volume control, can i use that instead as that doesnt have a split input, just an aux input which is what i need,

QUOTE(Duckies @ Feb 5 2014, 09:15 PM)
Eh, I connect my C3 to the monitor...no sound??

EDIT: Oh, solved adi. Is there any software to like...play a certain profile with a touch of a button? Like press Shift + Page Key will give a profile of Bass 7 Treble 2
*
To control the sound settings on the C3? Nope. The best u can do is use a music player with eq and custom presets. Or use a system wide eq with presets.
power911
post Feb 8 2014, 10:18 PM

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QUOTE(Langiler @ Feb 7 2014, 07:18 AM)
Hi guys

I just wondering is the Edifier H850 sound par with C3? or atlease with Logitech Z313.

Just audition the h850 at Midvally pc fair last January, but i cant test it with my own audio, seriously come on la Edifier,  i cant audit it  base on K-Pop music alone...
My Music genre is mixed,
J-Pop, Jazz, Bossa, pop, some rock, orchestra, oriental music n war drum, trance n techno

My last rm100 Sony MDR perform in between C3 and Z313, the high and mid is ok,  the bass is mid tho, but this headphone have adjustable bass port, soo if i want more bass i could flip the lever, but after 4 years of heavy use, it died.
*
not really a fair way to compare headphone with speakers because they are different categories.
but if you insist, H850 sounds nothing like C3 as well as the other way round.

is it any better than C3? no
is it any worse than C3? no

H850 has a very shallow V shape sound where bass and trebles are tight which is totally different compared to C3's treble/mid heavy bright sound.
That is like the only way I can describe the comparisons between a headphone (H850) and a speaker (C3)
Langiler
post Feb 9 2014, 01:58 AM

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QUOTE(power911 @ Feb 8 2014, 10:18 PM)
not really a fair way to compare headphone with speakers because they are different categories.
but if you insist, H850 sounds nothing like C3 as well as the other way round.

is it any better than C3? no
is it any worse than C3? no

H850 has a very shallow V shape sound where bass and trebles are tight which is totally different compared to C3's treble/mid heavy bright sound.
That is like the only way I can describe the comparisons between a headphone (H850) and a speaker (C3)
*

Oh wow,
then its perfect for me,
i think it sound nearly to my last headphone, MDR XD200,

I just love how the headphone reproduce the sound, not too bright just balance, and the bass is acceptable too, but not for bass head.

shirohamada
post Feb 9 2014, 08:51 PM

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anyone looking for a 2.1 speaker should forget about it.
get at least a 1280T.
if you're looking at c3 or c5, get r2500 instead.

bought my r1600t+ a few years ago and never looked back.

just saiyan.
power911
post Feb 9 2014, 09:02 PM

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QUOTE(shirohamada @ Feb 9 2014, 09:51 PM)
anyone looking for a 2.1 speaker should forget about it.
get at least a 1280T.
if you're looking at c3 or c5, get r2500 instead.

bought my r1600t+ a few years ago and never looked back.

just saiyan.
*
as much as I wanted to agree with you, I can't

I'm a die hard 2.0 lover but gaming is just isn't right with a music based 2.0 setup.
having a proper subwoofer gives a proper kick when needed where 2.0 just struggles to give both mids and lows for the woofer. sweat.gif

but for music alone, 2.0 is indeed the best thumbup.gif
shirohamada
post Feb 9 2014, 09:14 PM

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only applies if play you cowadoody

This post has been edited by shirohamada: Feb 9 2014, 09:29 PM
andrew9292
post Feb 10 2014, 10:00 PM

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Gonna modify M3300sf guys... Opened up and made a list. Any suggestions on what's good?
Should i leave the capacitance stock or bump up on which ones?
I remembered increasing the capacitance on some caps, can get better stability... which one would that be?

50v @ 10uf x 7 units - Replace w/ Pana FC
50v @ 2.2uf x 2 units - Replace w/ Nichicon KA
50v @ 47uf x 2 units - Replace w/ Pana FC
50v @ 22uf x 2 units - Replace w/ Pana FC
25v @ 4700uf x 2 units - Replace w/ Nichicon UHE

ST4558 x 2 units - Replace w/ OPA2134

Cosef
post Feb 11 2014, 03:14 AM

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QUOTE(andrew9292 @ Feb 10 2014, 10:00 PM)
Gonna modify M3300sf guys... Opened up and made a list. Any suggestions on what's good?
Should i leave the capacitance stock or bump up on which ones?
I remembered increasing the capacitance on some caps, can get better stability... which one would that be?

50v @ 10uf x 7 units - Replace w/ Pana FC
50v @ 2.2uf x 2 units - Replace w/ Nichicon KA
50v @ 47uf x 2 units - Replace w/ Pana FC
50v @ 22uf x 2 units - Replace w/ Pana FC
25v @ 4700uf x 2 units - Replace w/ Nichicon UHE

ST4558 x 2 units - Replace w/ OPA2134
*
Leave the capacitance stock, better only bump up the 4700uf 25V, because that is power supply filtering cap, but a good low ESR cap at the same value can significantly improves the filtering.

You can replace the ceramic cap to film cap with the same value. The resistor can be replaced to metal film one, it really improves a lot.

For the op-amp, so far I liked to use OP27 and LME49860, can try see which one sounds better to you.

Remember to clean all the soldering flux after mod, else you might possible get stability problem.


andrew9292
post Feb 11 2014, 04:37 AM

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QUOTE(Cosef @ Feb 11 2014, 03:14 AM)
Leave the capacitance stock, better only bump up the 4700uf 25V, because that is power supply filtering cap, but a good low ESR cap at the same value can significantly improves the filtering.

You can replace the ceramic cap to film cap with the same value. The resistor can be replaced to metal film one, it really improves a lot.

For the op-amp, so far I liked to use OP27 and LME49860, can try see which one sounds better to you.

Remember to clean all the soldering flux after mod, else you might possible get stability problem.
*
I see... I thought could bump up the sub and sat's capacitor for better/stable sound? hmm.gif

Thanks for suggesting opamp... I loved OPA2134 sound though, on the warmer and quiet side... Might try it's sibling 2132 first tongue.gif
How's OP27's signature? Can't seem to find much reviews online
Wont do ceramic cap yet... and I cant do resistors cause i'm color blind doh.gif

Do you find that certain caps create a certain kind of sound signature?
Eg, Reading another audio forums generally FC can be grainy, FM scoops up the mids, Nichicon PW flat, KA 'v-shape' etc etc
Or is it all personal opinion?

Hmm... There are some wires to the woofer unit and transmit wires to the bass knob from the pcb... I have some speaker wires but its kinda thick and wont fit in the pcb hole, is it recomended to strip some strands?

This post has been edited by andrew9292: Feb 11 2014, 06:29 AM
Cosef
post Feb 11 2014, 12:55 PM

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QUOTE(andrew9292 @ Feb 11 2014, 04:37 AM)
I see... I thought could bump up the sub and sat's capacitor for better/stable sound? hmm.gif

Thanks for suggesting opamp... I loved OPA2134 sound though, on the warmer and quiet side... Might try it's sibling 2132 first tongue.gif
How's OP27's signature? Can't seem to find much reviews online
Wont do ceramic cap yet... and I cant do resistors cause i'm color blind doh.gif

Do you find that certain caps create a certain kind of sound signature?
Eg, Reading another audio forums generally FC can be grainy, FM scoops up the mids, Nichicon PW flat, KA 'v-shape' etc etc
Or is it all personal opinion?

Hmm... There are some wires to the woofer unit and transmit wires to the bass knob from the pcb... I have some speaker wires but its kinda thick and wont fit in the pcb hole, is it recomended to strip some strands?
*
Most are signal path capacitors, which better to remain the same value as stock. If not mistaken there are smaller power supply caps near the power amplifier section (TDA2030), you can bump that up too.

OP27 sounds tight and stable, has a kind of 4558 and NE5532 combination. The resistors took me weeks to buy parts and replace laugh.gif

Yes I do find that certain caps create a certain kind of sound signature, later on I quit being that kind of tweaker and straight go for good performance cap, and it always sounded better. A good tips is that use a high performance capacitor on power supply filtering, everything will sound smooth and tight, other than that can be cause by other factor like speaker reached its limits, wiring, positioning, etc.

Subwoofer volume I suggest replace to a better shielded cable, don't replace to unshielded cable, M3300 is sensitive to interference.
lex
post Feb 12 2014, 12:10 AM

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QUOTE(andrew9292 @ Feb 10 2014, 10:00 PM)
Gonna modify M3300sf guys... Opened up and made a list. Any suggestions on what's good?
Should i leave the capacitance stock or bump up on which ones?
I remembered increasing the capacitance on some caps, can get better stability... which one would that be?

50v @ 10uf x 7 units - Replace w/ Pana FC
50v @ 2.2uf x 2 units - Replace w/ Nichicon KA
50v @ 47uf x 2 units - Replace w/ Pana FC
50v @ 22uf x 2 units - Replace w/ Pana FC
25v @ 4700uf x 2 units - Replace w/ Nichicon UHE
Most of the capacitors I've used are not Panasonic FC series. For those in the audio path I've used mostly Nichicon FG (Fine Gold) series, but Nichicon KA would do very well also. Also those 2.2uF ones, I used instead 10uF also. Forget those 47uF capacitors used for decoupling duties and replace them with at least 100uF or higher. On my unit I've used 120uF Nichicon HE. And for that 22uF capacitors in the power amplifier side, I've used Panasonic FM instead. Not sure how well Panasonic FC will perform there, but should be about the same... wink.gif

QUOTE(andrew9292 @ Feb 10 2014, 10:00 PM)
ST4558 x 2 units - Replace w/ OPA2134
*
Alternatively there's NE5532 which would be clean sounding and precise. Anyway both are pretty good opamps. Do tell us the result after this change... icon_rolleyes.gif

This post has been edited by lex: Feb 12 2014, 12:13 AM
andrew9292
post Feb 12 2014, 12:34 AM

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QUOTE(Cosef @ Feb 11 2014, 12:55 PM)
Most are signal path capacitors, which better to remain the same value as stock. If not mistaken there are smaller power supply caps near the power amplifier section (TDA2030), you can bump that up too.

OP27 sounds tight and stable, has a kind of 4558 and NE5532 combination. The resistors took me weeks to buy parts and replace  laugh.gif

Yes I do find that certain caps create a certain kind of sound signature, later on I quit being that kind of tweaker and straight go for good performance cap, and it always sounded better. A good tips is that use a high performance capacitor on power supply filtering, everything will sound smooth and tight, other than that can be cause by other factor like speaker reached its limits, wiring, positioning, etc.

Subwoofer volume I suggest replace to a better shielded cable, don't replace to unshielded cable, M3300 is sensitive to interference.
*
Thank you for your suggestions bro! Helps me alot as i know better what to look for & expect. Just did the purchase today rclxms.gif
What kind of cables you use to replace for the SW? Managed to stuff into the PCB hole for soldering?Or joining via a copper pin or something else?

QUOTE(lex @ Feb 12 2014, 12:10 AM)
Most of the capacitors I've used are not Panasonic FC series. For those in the audio path I've used mostly Nichicon FG (Fine Gold) series, but Nichicon KA would do very well also. Also those 2.2uF ones, I used instead 10uF also. Forget those 47uF capacitors used for decoupling duties and replace them with at least 100uF or higher. On my unit I've used 120uF Nichicon HE. And for that 22uF capacitors in the power amplifier side, I've used Panasonic FM instead. Not sure how well Panasonic FC will perform there, but should be about the same... wink.gif

Alternatively there's NE5532 which would be clean sounding and precise. Anyway both are pretty good opamps. Do tell us the result after this change... icon_rolleyes.gif
*
Thank you to you too bro! Learned quite alot from you recently. I've made a note of your suggestion and will try it out for second round brows.gif Trying to learn the differences and relationship between different component choices and value. Trying to avoid FCs this time as it didn't really suit my ears on previous experiences, had that grainy higher-mid timbre (dunno, personal experience). Have u tried Pana FRs? They seem good on paper, almost like FM.

Currently just trying direct value to value replacement

50v @ 10uf x 7 - Replace w/ Nichicon KW
50v @ 2.2uf x 2 - Replace w/ Nichicon PW
50v @ 47uf x 2 - Replace w/ Nichicon KA
50v @ 22uf x 2 - Replace w/ Panasonic FM
25v @ 4700uf x 2 - Replace w/ Nichicon HE (back order from USA, not sure how long) cry.gif
Opamp - x 2 - OPA2132

That's the best available on Element14, cant use Mouser cuz no credit card. Mouth watering seeing the stuff they have there wub.gif

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