Hi guys, i am come across a thread there that mention resin injection can fix leaking.
Anyone mind to further explain it or can provide opinion whether it will fix my current problem ?

I did toilet/back extension with flat concrete roof by a noob person, it have leaking problem sometime when raining really heavily. however sometime it does not.

I consulted another contractor and he suggest I do awning to cover the concrete roof, somehow i come across this thread and I wonder whether this method will work.

He also told me the problem occur because the contractor do the extension in wrong way.
If there is no solution, it will cost a lot of money and time if Im going to redo/hack it.
He said the contractor do Picture A method, correct method should be Picture B. Last picture show leaking.

Thanks.

Picture not upload properly?
Ask my house mid doing renovation and also flat roof, hence interested to find out more and to prevent it too...


This post has been edited by Jo_da48: Apr 19 2011, 06:32 PM

i think awning shd be cheaper than hacking it up. plus, you should feel cooler by not having sun shining directly on concrete.

if water is seeping into the crack it also indicate poor drainage.

epoxy should solve the leak via through the concrete but i dont think it will stop the mushrooms from growing there.

resin injection/ pressure grouting not permanent solution,

try this :


cheap solution

OK. It indeed CURI AYAM...as it should be hocked with the original wall like below as well, else will able to see a crack line betwee the original wall and extended wall.

But than according to my contractor, it still have to verifier and hope to have a big rain than able to see any leaking or not..



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any flat roof will leak over time. you need a slope.

also method B is most certainly way better than A.

skng03 should be quite good. better even to put a proper roof on top.

bro, what is gi flashing tuck ?
screed to fall maybe not possible because wall is a bit higher than roof.
concrete kerb is it make thick concrete to cover the joint area ?

it look like this

water leaking is hard to identify the exact cause.

it might be due to crack on slabs, seepage, splashing etc.
the epoxy pump method is only when u have identified the cracks on slabs.

either apply another layer of waterproofing on top (to apply includes at least 1.5' on wall)
or cover direct with a roof

This is a picture of a new rendered cement wall(not painted)...today , there was a heavy downpour of rain..so I thought it is a good idea to check for leaks of flat concrete roof...

I found 2 leaks that are obvious but what about the picture below? the wall looks wet, when I touch it, it feel moist not wet..
any comments? The second is another room with flat concrete roof..and plaster ceiling(not painted)...looks like a leak..


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today noon was heavy rain, hence go to side and check the new ext roof up.
Apperancely saw it leaking but it was from the old wall (under the roof)because the wins blow and water flow a bit slow, which flow back to the old wall which without proper seal or waterproofing at all, hence the contractor will address and put waterproofing on it.

Question how long those WaterProofing could stand?

add spout pipe then....

for 2nd pic you might see the cracks if you opened up the plaster

but for 1st, it shows to moisture seepage... hard to identify the source.

still as per many above recommended. just built a open roof over it. rather than do another layer of waterproofing without guarantee it will works

This post has been edited by aLittleMisfit: Apr 20 2011, 09:50 PM

2nd picture for sure, I went up the roof and he cover the gap with a plastic sheet...only...(see below 5th pic with plastic only)

1st picture is moisture seepage, must be here at the concrete roof...(picture 4th) I climb up with ladder yesterday(pic 3) before the rain to take pics and check on THIS contractor's work...cannot trust him liau..

This post has been edited by jojozep: Apr 20 2011, 10:19 PM


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u can go and try to look for a liquid+powder (something like cement) mixture. the liquid looks like raw rubber....so u just mix it with the powder and then u apply it with a large paint brush. it is like a rubber when it is going to dry but then it will harden like a cement when it is really dry.

i'm having this problem too previously....what i did is to hack a bit of the part up, put some adhesive cement and then apply the above mixture. 6 inch above ground, problem solved so far and for added protection, paint with the waterproof paint.

go n ask the hardware shop...something called slurry.......if not mistaken, it is from UK.

hmm.. the work not yet complete. make sure there is gradient so no stagnant waters and it flows fast enough. if less gradient, seepage is common.
it serves no purpose to use good waterproofing cement or material if he doesnt applies it over the vertical wall.

heavy rain again...
Good to test and see whether the roof still leaking or not

http://www.sika.com.my/construction-waterp...djointtreatment

there is no water gutter & sealer. All this job by your contractor is unprofessional.GI flash will not do the job.

Is there suppose to be a gutter for concrete roof? I thought it will build a slope with a floor trap...

there is pros and cons of each design intention. You still need a scupper drain to channel to water on your roof slab to your nearest floor trap. You must not use normal floor trap. you must use something like this

My contractor just put in additional bricks and sink to prevent water leaking...this included extra waterproof and the While thing (no sure what it call) due to when heavy wind blow it back into the roof.




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the white stuff is an adhesive glue or sealant for your flashing. I can't see how big is the flashing sheet coverage. Looking into your picture i assume is until the upper kerb. Well it's not enough. You contractor need to extend the flashing in a single piece to the roof tiles as least 2 feet.

It already 2 inch high from the concreate. and I could see the water sign stop way before hints the white spot after he add the additonal glue thing (like a gums)...
He will not do till if the rain hit again and leaking sign find

that isn't proper water proofing, the proper way is apply to all flat roof and min 150mm up turn skirting with min 2 coats


sample pic of water proofing to balcony using SIKA product

Flashing is a "L" shape thin layer of metal sheet used to cover the gap between vertical & horizontal wall. the best method is as forumer here.to cut the wall with grinding disc and tuck in the bended tip into the wall, nail on to the wall with what either method. then seal the side with silicone or equivalent...



G.I is a coating.. zinc coating. best is to use PPGI(pre-paint colour G.I sheet) better than G.I alone due to its service environment(subject to rain spalsh & sunlight)

It similar like the photo, except I captured from near instead of far point...
SInce it will take him another month to get my house completed, hence still can monitor the outcome

http://www.sika.com/en/competence_for/01_o...rs/e-house.html

I just saw it keep Cycle..

using bricks as kerb is not a ideal way to do it

you are right and it should not be. But in fact it have to be, because the roof concreate are just lay below the wood after the extention.
So a brick is need to be use as foundation

Where is your water going first? If there is ponding on your flat roof then apa solution also no use. Make sure water discharge fast enough first. Then only solve the leak.

Seems like you said when heavy rain the water won't go over the kerb, that means that water is ponding!!! There should not be a layer of water there in the first place. It means that your discharge is under designed. look into that first.

(many contractor, and architects for that matter, don't understand that water discharged needs to be designed. Just because you have a floor trap there does not mean that it is good enough to discharge all the water. it needs to be sized properly. ie- the bigger the flat roof, the larger the discharge)

This post has been edited by Bishop: Apr 30 2011, 02:11 AM

Sorry, may I mistake interpreted the "Kerb"

This is how the pipe the contractor in place, the pipe hole is not facing the sky instead it was 45 degree with under 1inch under the concrete.


WHen I ask him why it not facing the sky so that the water will go much more fast (I guess) instead of like this
Answer from him is
1) Facing sky not meant water will flow fasted as he using 6inch pipe not 4 inch
2) Using this way than the pipe "L" is facing outside not under the concrete or build together with concrete, just imaging if the "L" hidden in the concreate, how deep the concrete layer will be or it will Display in room conner...
[attachmentid=2186203]

So far after the leaking and addional thing done, it not longer leaking. Is this meant I'm safe?


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Not a very elegant solution. Such a large pipe coming down the side of your house.

Anyway the construction is completely wrong. The parapet/kerb/upturn that is now built in bricks should have been casted in concrete together with the flat roof. That was the cause of the leak. Sad to say you are not safe. Different expansion rate of the bricks and concrete will cause it to crack again at a later time. After a while you will probably see a horizontal line where the brick sits on the concrete flat roof and see water stain there.

Actually the awning/metal deck solution that someone suggested earlier would be the safest solution.

Is the place dry after rain or is there still water there ponding after the rain?

Good question. Maybe I sure claim up to see again...

Also, I nothing anyone could have bricks and concrete done together, as concrete need to be dry before bricks could be there, rights? Or maybe I interprete wrongly?


This post has been edited by Jo_da48: Apr 30 2011, 09:45 AM

what bishop mean is the up stand kerb shall be Reinforced Concrete cast together with the slab, not bricks

This post has been edited by skng03: Apr 30 2011, 11:25 AM

Go take a look immediately after rain and see. If there is water ponding then the screeding is not done properly. What that means is the water is not flowing to your discharge. If water is ponding leaks will eventually happen.

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Added on April 30, 2011, 11:55 amThis means there is ponding. there should not be a water sign if the screeding is done properly.

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Added on April 30, 2011, 12:00 pmYep. his contractor has a poor understanding of construction.

This post has been edited by Bishop: Apr 30 2011, 12:00 PM

thanks bishop for highlighting the seriousness of water ponding, i shall request my contractor to look into my balcony water leakage problem

Good...that not water ponding at the area,ofcause it not Dry after rain la...

I was thinking how could I ask the contractor to do the" "L" shape thin layer of metal sheet "

If you want to do L metal sheet (technical term is "flashing") then the solution given by a previous poster is correct.

any comments for my case?

http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...t=0&p=42036474&

Last 2 days heavy rain,...endup found water marked at the 1st floor room and also the car park area...


Car park roof like water flow


1st room water marked signed


Have asked the contractor back here work on it, and didn't what to do next. Dont dare to put Plastic ceiling worry it will gone once touch by water


This post has been edited by Jo_da48: Jun 29 2011, 09:21 PM

you need to re-do new water proofing for both area above.

problem could the contractor fix or not, worry it leak again after I put in the plastic ceiling.

The joint is not properly done... A lot of Renovation Contractor has no proper knowledge of water proofing.. Actually all jointing area shall be formed with Angle Fillet prior applying water proofing..

bro i think after contractor fix/water proof will also leak..mine is something like this too.

regarding my case, as i dont have money to demolish and rebuild, i do ajiya awning, it fixed the problem, but in very very heavy rain i can see 2-3 small water mark.
recently i cleaned the roof, clean away dust etc, paint the whole cement roof with undercoat and then paint. hope it will do. considering to put bitumen stripes around the roof sides/lines later

Bro,

a) Based on the above scenario, your RC Flat roof is sitting on existing wall/beam right? My question,

did your SC roughen the existing BW/Beam surface,
did he clean it after roughen the surface and
finally did they use any bonding agent prior pouring the Concrete of the RC Flat roof?

Sorry, your questionis to?

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Added on June 30, 2011, 7:56 pmANyone use this waterproof meterial before?
"FLESEAL 200"
http://www.aseansources.com/en/DJS0004/pro...ING/FLESEAL-200

According to my tiles contractor, he use it on all leaking cases and problem solve, only drawback is too expensive. RM300 for the 1.5KG which only able to cover like 300 sqf


This post has been edited by Jo_da48: Jun 30 2011, 08:05 PM

To both of you...

What is"Angle Fillet"?

The join between the slab and wall is 90deg, but with Angle Fillet it go 45 deg.

This morning heavy rain and think get worst, hence engage my tile contractor and seem advice, and they will do

1) hack small part of existing floor (near wall)
2) Apply 2 layer of Water proofing "FLESEAL 200"
3) Apply one layer of sand / cement (Up to low), so that water could exist more fasted
Option: If still have balance water proofing, will than another layer, as I puchased the 20KG...

All this will minus of from the old contractor $$$ that still hold by me.
As I guess he also out of idea or knowing he in big trouble, hence agreed to let other people do...

Take sl2007 advice, make Angle Fillet. Than apply the sealer.

This post has been edited by weikee: Jul 15 2011, 08:13 PM

WHere could I get this so called "Anfle FIllet" or meant of doing a 45degree a slope through cement?

This post has been edited by Jo_da48: Jul 15 2011, 08:26 PM

the angle fillet is done using cement screed. This is to drain the water from the edges

The Indo is making a slope but not really 45degree, it more like 25-30 degree, and I have a filling that they will able to solve the problem, since they check the root cause and saw the leaking when they doing my roof work...


Car Pouche


Roof top



Any comments?


This post has been edited by Jo_da48: Jul 17 2011, 06:07 PM

did them fix it bro?

u should ask them to apply the vertical side at least 150mm height

Opsss.. here the final version. Almost reach the edge on brick and the whole area is WHITE colou now...

I'm been waiting for heavy or at least rain since completed (Monday) till now






This post has been edited by Jo_da48: Jul 22 2011, 08:35 PM

Bro, does the problem resolve after new water proofing apply?

Still waiting heavy rain since completed (Monday) till now...only few small drop yesterday at my area

Your water proofing cover only the concrete slab? what about the beam side attached to the slab? (the 90degree connection vertical)

The Indo make a slope around 20-30degree, where the end is brick.

aiyah while wait for the rains drop why not try to spray water and test first ......u're is leaking problems not water splashing problem mah, right?

try to block the water outflow hole and let the water cover the whole concrete slabs that u wanted to test at least half an inch high then u leave it for half an hour if leak u will already know immediately why wait? but pls ensure the water is not drain out to have a accurate results ...... this method is the fastest way ...... just sharing .....

correct, since you are doing already, if end is brick why not sapu water proofing on the brick also? maybe up to 10" height from slope..... to avoid the water splashing on your wall cause leak ma......

For the car pourche, it only a single brick which already max high of water proof , because it just inherit from the old tile roof.
As for the back concreate yard ( 2nd Floor), it on 1.5 brick, if more than that, then the water will already out from roof direct to the outside and not even could go so high at all...

last two day it does rain on the area, but just few drop which can cause anything

---

Added on July 29, 2011, 2:28 pmAn early raining, which break my hope as the leaking not all solved.

Car pource: Original 3 place have water fall type, now only have 1 place, which believe they didn't actually open up the roof tile and check the zink area
Room: Original leaking room solved, but now another room leaking , could be when they putting those roof time not in proper way.

NOw have to wait for two week for them to come over to fix, which delay my plastec ceiling work too


This post has been edited by Jo_da48: Jul 29 2011, 02:28 PM

Never ending... One after another leaking came out
After all the rest of leaking result by putting extra water pipe, water proofing, blocked with root tile (verticate) to prevent wind direction....

Today another new leaking found, after check and it a big joke.
This water go through root tile, aluminum layer than out through Zink
And end of zink didn't have any link to other placer, hence the water just drop through my ceiling as show on picture...
I can't fixed it except I clim up to the roof top from outside as inside been block by zink / alumimin


Guess I found the possiable roof cause. Yesterday was heavy rain on our area and almost whole night was raining, hence this morning drop to the house and found that the was not further leaking sign at all, hence suspect due to wind blow.
Take a look from external and compared the rest of house, noticed that the "Triangre" roof like missing a pc, which may the hole look big compared to other house...will buy one and ask the contractor fix it up.


I'm also spend time checking the car pourche area about leaking as well, hence also see the possiable area as well, as that if water falled fast, it will not goto when full to the gutter instead it overflow to opposite which not proper been tiles on...
Hope this could be address after Raya and the paint work could start as well.

Idea Outcome



This post has been edited by Jo_da48: Feb 9 2012, 03:52 PM

After 6 months down the road nightmare back again as the Flat roof area leaking again as could saw water mark at the plaster ceiling

Yesterday have re-apply water proofying (DIY) using PenTens...cross finger and hope it solve out.

for flat roof leaking why dont u try PU Grouting

most of the leaking on construction project using this method , ..i'm not a supplier by the way.

http://www.patentroofing.com.sg/PU_grouting.htm

This post has been edited by sn4: Feb 18 2012, 11:23 AM

that so many way or suggest,just that which is realiable or need redo after few years???
If I have choice I will use Roof tiles instead of Concreate roof

if builder quality suck, roof can also have lots of problem.

For protection against rain, I'd say metaldeck roofing is the best because it has less joints.
As far as I know, there is no permanent cure for cracked concrete roof.
Consider doing a layer of metaldecking over it.

Cement roof tiles depend on the overlap between tiles and the roof pitch, whch must be at least 20 degrees. Other factors can also cause leakage - flashings, structure sagging, cracked tiles, etc.

P.S.
There is one method of repairing leakage whereby holes are drilled at close intervals on the concrete slab. A liquid is pumped under high pressure into the holes. The liquid finds its way into the pores of the concrete, expands into a foam material and clogs up the pores thus preventing leakage through the slab.

I don't know what material that's called. I believe it is still in the market.
It worked to stop leakage through my bathroom floor slab so that I did not have to hack out all the tiles and redo the waterproofing.

This post has been edited by tehtmc: Feb 18 2012, 11:58 AM

its called PU grouting

[quote=sn4,Feb 18 2012, 12:37 PM]its called PU grouting

[/quote]

OK, polyurethane the foam packing material.
But I'm not sure whether it will work with deep cracks.[
[/quote]

This post has been edited by tehtmc: Feb 18 2012, 12:53 PM

work fine with our 400mm thick wall here

What 400mm thick wall?
We are talking about a car porch roof which is under direct sun and rain.

i'm talking about my wall here at this project, 400mm thick, since u doubt it effectiveness with deep crack

your roof slab probably only 150-200mm thick, so no worries

This post has been edited by sn4: Feb 18 2012, 01:03 PM

Car porch roof slabs are typically 100-125mm thick. Wouldn't a thinner slab be more difficult to waterproof than an thicker slab?

with injection i think its not a concern, the foam will filled up the crack, no matter how deep the crack, its pressurized the chemical and seal all

my 2 cents

The question is also, how long will it long under outdoor conditions?
The same job can be done using sealant or flexible coatings but they don't last.

Based on what been told to me by the applicator(sorry if its not correct) it can last 10-15yrs...we are talking about the same material that has been used on big project, bridge, tunnel etc

The question is still whether it can take all the expansion and contraction(thermal movement) due to weather.

Here's something I found:



Source: http://www.waterworld.com/index/display/ar...filtration.html

This post has been edited by tehtmc: Feb 18 2012, 01:49 PM

just use this method to settle the swimming pool leaking problem



solve/ stop the water with grouting first lar, it may come back later but u have no choice now...

That's true, it's not as if you have other choices though it may not be 100%.

How much does it cost?

the cost depend on how many packers/point u need to use, i think the rate now around rm80-150 per point.. , u can ask them to put less first, then see if it still leak or not

my 2 posen

This post has been edited by sn4: Feb 18 2012, 01:52 PM

Why don't you try to put metal roof right on top of the slab with a little bit inclination for water to flow down. Maybe it will work if no water come in contact directly with the slab.

The keyword here is "no water should touch my flat concrete roof" .

Yes, this is the best solution and it is permanent. Have to spend more though.

my house flat concrete roof leak after 4 months.i will try to ask the contractor to use the pu grouting.just hope it can be solve once and for all.concrete roof is sure a pain in the s

dig up 1 - 2 inch concrete, reapply proofing. Else sun may just kill it on surface

If it is for bathroom I'm sure it will work as I have tried. For outdoor, I don't think it is 100%.

most of the flat roof leakage at house extension will occur at the cold joint with the existing structure, due to minor settlement of the new structure built by the reno contractor, without proper footing/ foundation...

mine is for the newly built extension room

mine don have proper footing as he said bakau cant enter the earth.so it is ok not to use footing