Man... friday jln hulu langat, yesterday genting, u sure test insight kaw kaw

Yup. Having those really protect the paintjob around front fender/door and rear bumper. And somehow it makes the Insight rear look less 'hanging'.
Insight with oem thin modulo kit still pretty hanging imhe (in-my-humble-eyes).

Is that means the tray already available aftermarket? Then it suppose to be cheaper

Its original Honda 4 pieces mudguard but cant confirm from which model. I think its either from Jazz, Stream, City, Civic etc.
Something like this http://www.chrome168.com/list/379/
Painted and the shape perfectly match Insight.


Other than that, i have upgraded the sound system.
Stock HU, underseat active subwoofer through high input (sorry bro shorty, got it from other fren) with bass remote, and a pair of tweeters at its original location (dashboard edge right & left). U got to hear the new, full range sound. Alan've heard it last friday.
Plus sunshade dvd transfered from my old car. Even though its from china, but already 2 years using it and going strong.So i've completed the AV part.

Got it from a fren working in used car/parts dealer.

Few time sampling. 1st he brought me old EK mudflaps sets but the side profile didnt match. later he bring this and that and finally the one u see from the picture. I'll confirm with him again from which model but its definitely OEM Honda. Some fitting and screwing skill needed to mount those flaps. Sturdy and tested in heavy rain, and wind speed up to 180kmh. (yes i've gone to 180kmh)

Not taking much picture. Here some.

Power cable run inside A pillar cover. Tapping power from 12V socket. Notice the oldcar derived sports paddle.
The picture of tweeter location. Our Insight comes with no tweeter. The tweeter mounted on its mesh cover panel (not in the picture). Pry the cover out carefully using supplied flathead screwdriver. Use standard size tweeter of good quality. Wiring the driver side can be a bit tricky but doable and have to be careful not to dangle on steering shaft.

Sorry no picture for the subwoofer yet. Will take if u wanna see. Wiring all done by ur's truly. No wires were cut during all these installation and they were all removable without a trace.

No more 'old radio' sound. My fren were blown away by the sound and thought it was oem. he even comment that japanese model all perfect. Haha.

That was my concern also before this mod.

But confirm, u can disconnect the cables and reconnect without problem. Reset back the clock, bass, treble, fader, balance etc and off u go.

I just use a pair of normal soundstream tweeters.

I'll come up with detail diy instruction to mount and wire the tweeters.

congrats congrat. Now u got your high freq sort out. Its time for the lower end freq = a sub.

For tweeter you need:
1. Flathead screw driver (supplied: in your boot)
2. 8mm hex socket and suitable wrench
3. Small spectacle flathead screwdriver (0.5-1mm)
4. Wire tape
5. A pair of tweeter (usually comes with all the wiring)
6. Doubletape or superglue (to stick the tweeter onto the panel)
7. Clean cloth to cover dash surface during installation

First, to dimantle the HU, pikkashoe have shared the step by step instruction (thanks pikkashoe)
http://www.insightcentral.net/forums/modif...tock-radio.html

To dismantle the tweeter panel:

Using the flathead screwdriver, slot in the tip into the opening and pry open gently. You may need to twist the screwdriver all the way until the clip of the panel release.




Gently pull out the tweeter panel towards u. Attached here is my panel with the tweeter already in place.


Depending on the type and size of tweeter use, u can either attach them onto the panel using doubletape or few drops of super glue.

Insert the wiring from the panel hole towards the bottom of dash. Re-route the wire properly behind glovebox toward the HU slot.

Tap the audio signal based on this diagram:
2010 Honda Insight Car Stereo Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Pink
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Violet
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Gray
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: White
Car Stereo Power Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Turn-On Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Tweeter Size: N/A
Car Audio Front Tweeter Depth: N/A
Car Audio Front Tweeter Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 6 1/2″ Speakers
Car Audio Front Speakers Depth: 3 1/2″
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Blue
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Red
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 6 1/2″ Speakers
Car Audio Rear Speakers Depth: 3 1/3″
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Car Subwoofer Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Car Subwoofer Rear Speakers Depth: N/A
Car Subwoofer Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Gray
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Orange

For the left tweeter, tap the audio signal from Light blue (+) and Gray (-) from the original harness.

Repeat the same procedures for the right tweeter. All the panel below steering column are removable and only attached by tabs and 1 screw tab if im not mistaken. Its important to properly route the tweeter wiring for the right tweeter to prevent it from dangling the steering shaft.

Right tweeter will tap audio from Blue (+) and Red (-) from the original harness.

To tap the audio signal, depending on your skill, u can split the wire (not recommended) or undo the pin from the connector (harder but neat). Tape the wires properly. Make sure no loose contact or worst, short circuit.

Put everything back in place and u are now can hear shattered glass sound better than before.

For improve bass effect, u can use something like this:


This type of active sub equipped with built in amp with gain, phase and frequency setting. Most of them now have wired remote bass control so u can increase or decrease bass level without the need to set your gain, again and again (coz different media source usually have different bass level).

U have to undo the font driver seat, get the harness all sorted out through the gear console panel (side) and tap the audio signal accordingly as the color code above using sub speaker/ high level input, from rear left and right (4 wires) behind the HU (same step as the tweeter above). Power for the active sub can be tapped either direct from battery or like me, easily tap from interior power socket. 120W limit for power socket should be enough to cover the sub consumption. Tune your gain, phase and frequency right.

All done. Get the HU back in place, reset everything. The difference in sound quality is night and day.

This post has been edited by watonk: May 10 2011, 03:24 AM

Me using mobil (more-bill)

30.52 liters for 712km. 50:50 city:highway. Econ on. Aircond 22-25 degree celcius. Hypermilling.

After refuel, the computer calculate 780km++ range but i'm not yet getting the estimated figure. If we can maintain our driving pattern, i believe its doable.
There always times that i 'have to' put the pedal to the metal. Mostly because got other normal combustion engine tailgaiting me very near and i assume he wanted to know the power of hybrid

Going to SG next week. Will check it out for u.

No. Alan and me eats battery as hobby

My update.

As i calculate the fuel consumption, i found that the onboard FC computer is not bad and quite accurate.

My last average FC before refuel was 18.9km/l (displayed in MID). I refuel early this time, before the indicator blinks and about quarter needle before empty. Already traveled 560km. Paid rm55.80 full tank = 29.37 liters. It works out 19.06km/l.

Not bad at all considering that tank I speed up the car to 160-180km/h all the way from pagoh to ayer hitam, plus fetch my wife daily (short trip), plus jam in KL last weekend (federal highway friday afternoon).

Current tank i able to maintain average 22km/l so far. My target after 2nd service, i should be able to achieve 25km/l average. Hypermiling is fun.

At least fun to the wallet.

I really fully utilized the cruise control. Sometimes I basically driving with hands only. Getting near to the car in front, press cancel. As that car give way, press resume. Slowing down and continue coasting press cancel>set.

U know, that particular damn small rubber was made in japan.

Just a small geek between me and my brother, we open the rubber and compare it with the one on his City. To our surprise, the one on Insight have some embossing/marking and looks very nice, while the one on the City just regular rubber without any marking.

Suddenly i felt very good owning a CBU car....

Both mode can. But i notice the exhaust note was a bit different on both mode running high speed.

The RPM almost 6k at 180. The car still very stable. The FC drop from 18km/l to 17km/l in a few minutes. The best thing was, the pedal still not touching the floor at that speed.

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Added on May 14, 2011, 12:36 amGuys!! Quick!! Honda Insight for sale at Giant for rm9.99. I unit left.



This post has been edited by watonk: May 14 2011, 12:36 AM

U can follow the steps provided by our friends here.

On top of that, u can set A mileage counter to reset automatically everytime u fill up. Log on to MID setting mode (switch on, engine off, press and hold reset button for a few seconds) and follow the on screen display. i cant remember underwhich setting but i guess u can figure this out.

So mileage counter A will auto reset everytime you refuel and the FC computer will rest too, so u can get updated FC reading every tank.

D all the way.

Try soundproofing if u wanted a complete silent.

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Added on May 15, 2011, 1:52 amDidnt u put in any sub? How d u cover the low freq @ bass sound? component still lacks of those low end bass i think.

This post has been edited by watonk: May 15 2011, 01:52 AM