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 [WTA] Grundfos Water Pump, CH-PT or CH-PC

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ozak
post Apr 3 2012, 01:01 PM

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QUOTE(stevie8 @ Apr 3 2012, 12:19 PM)
Always read the instruction manual of the tank. There is a limit to the pressure it can take and follow the instruction and the safety limit is over 20% standard engineering practice. Also check your piping how great the pressure it can take, usually no problem. Thre is no danger that when it burst and hurt because the pressure is only few bars. The only thing is problem when the old tank leaks. When it leak or no air in the tank the pump will keep on and off within second. So you know before problem getting bigger.

what i do is I took out the rubber balloon and apply a layer of neutral silicone on the inside of the tank to prevent corrosion. Never use acid base silicone it will corrode the metal/iron tank immediately. neutral silicone is double the price of acid silicone. Silicone is better than a layer or coats of paint as it is waterproof. Paint still absorbs water and be dissolved over time. Your tank with coat of silicone last you many years double and triple the life span of the tank. Also silicone screw holes and the nuts itself and the whole connecting plate. Screw on when the silicone is still wet.
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What is the price for such a tank?

Can the tank be put outside expose to sun? Will the hot weather increase the air pressure inside and get burst. Either tank side or pipe side.
stevie8
post Apr 4 2012, 11:38 AM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Apr 3 2012, 01:01 PM)
What is the price for such a tank?

Can the tank be put outside expose to sun? Will the hot weather increase the air pressure inside and get burst. Either tank side or pipe side.
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Forgot about the price. RM60 to RM180?? Not necessary to buy ori. Ori is expensive.

Of course the air inside will expand with heat maybe by few psi but same time cool/neutralised by the circulating water inside and by conduction. It is not totally isolated like a standalone tank or like our car tyre. So long as it is not too much beyond the recommended air pressure I think it is ok. Definitely it wont burst for sure explode like bomb la. The pressure is too low to explode a metal tank not like gas cylinder kind of high pressure when ignite by fire that produces huge gases as it burn. Just imagine when you turn on the tap, that kind of pressure wont explode, if it is so high you will hear hissing sound when turn on the tap. You see the whole thing ie the tank, the pipe and the taps are all under same pressure. if the tank can explode like a bomb that hurt then your pipe or your tap can hurt you too when you turn on release the water at tap head. it is just like a balloon when you let go air at any point eg. on the inlet where you blow air into it (like turning on the tap) if it looses air/water and no explosion it will not explode whereever the point of leak/break. However, air give bigger bang sound then water. When you break a balloon filled with air you probably get a bang. When you break the balloon filled with water you usually dont get a bang of sound. if you are so worry about it dont stand near cars, the tire explode on you hhahahaha, just joking.
ozak
post Apr 4 2012, 01:38 PM

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QUOTE(stevie8 @ Apr 4 2012, 11:38 AM)
Forgot about the price. RM60 to RM180?? Not necessary to buy ori. Ori is expensive.

Of course the air inside will expand with heat maybe by few psi but same time cool/neutralised by the circulating water inside and by conduction. It is not totally isolated like a standalone tank or like our car tyre. So long as it is not too much beyond the recommended air pressure I think it is ok. Definitely it wont burst for sure explode like bomb la. The pressure is too low to explode a metal tank not like gas cylinder kind of high pressure when ignite by fire that produces huge gases as it burn. Just imagine when you turn on the tap, that kind of pressure wont explode, if it is so high you will hear hissing sound when turn on the tap. You see the whole thing ie the tank, the pipe and the taps are all under same pressure. if the tank can explode like a bomb that hurt then your pipe or your tap can hurt you too when you turn on release the water at tap head. it is just like a balloon when you let go air at any point eg. on the inlet where you blow air into it  (like turning on the tap) if it looses air/water and no explosion it will not explode whereever the point of leak/break. However, air give bigger bang sound then water. When you break a balloon filled with air you probably get a bang. When you break the balloon filled with water you usually dont get a bang of sound. if you are so worry about it dont stand near cars, the tire explode on you hhahahaha, just joking.
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So cheap the tank? What is the size of the tank for rm180/rm60? I thaught need at least rm500 for a tank probably size 20L.
stevie8
post Apr 5 2012, 09:23 AM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Apr 4 2012, 01:38 PM)
So cheap the tank? What is the size of the tank for rm180/rm60? I thaught need at least rm500 for a tank probably size 20L.
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19L tank. There are 25L, 30L tanks price no much different. Tank cannot be too expensive, it is a simple technology. RM180 you can buy a pump with 1yr warranty.

I bought the italy made tank and still working. All in all I have used 3 tank over 12 yrs. The ori tank was replaced (after 3 yrs) with the Italy made tank due to leak at the tank, rusted. Then the Italy made tank rubber broken/ puncture (after 1 yr) and some area rusted at the inlet cover. I then bought a China made tank putting it on as stop gap measure as I analysed the Italian tank and resealed the rubber balloon and the entire inside of the tank with silicone. I then fited it on to the pump and took out the China made tank and sealled it too. Wola the Italian tank is now 9 yr old and the China made tank sitting there doing nothing. So, ori or no ori will not last you very long. Some diy with reinforced silicone lasts and paid off.
ozak
post Apr 5 2012, 06:11 PM

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QUOTE(stevie8 @ Apr 5 2012, 09:23 AM)
19L tank. There are 25L, 30L tanks price no much different. Tank cannot be too expensive, it is a simple technology. RM180 you can buy a pump with 1yr warranty.

I bought the italy made tank and still working. All in all I have used 3 tank over 12 yrs. The ori tank was replaced (after 3 yrs) with the Italy made tank due to leak at the tank, rusted. Then the Italy made tank rubber broken/ puncture (after 1 yr) and some area rusted at the inlet cover. I then bought a China made tank putting it on as stop gap measure as I analysed the Italian tank and resealed the rubber balloon and the entire inside of the tank with silicone. I then fited it on to the pump and took out the China made tank and sealled it too. Wola the Italian tank is now 9 yr old and the China made tank sitting there doing nothing. So, ori or no ori will not last you very long. Some diy with reinforced silicone lasts and paid off.
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Thanks for the infor. I m in the middle of design my water piping system. Collecting some specification and infor. smile.gif
stevie8
post Apr 6 2012, 09:16 AM

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Ozak,

Things that you may want to consider:

The pump: type of pump, location of pump especially double storey, 3 storey hse. Pump swtiches, pump access, pump asorber and cover to reduce noise, pump piping easy disembly with union and stop valves, by passes.

Piping: types of pipes from main to house, to the tank, in the wall, hot and cold piping, by passes, outlets and type of outlets especially for bathroom.

Stopvalves: use standard valves that allow you to change the "standard" rubber inside that is available in the market especially those consealed in the wall, no plastic but metal valves in these consealed areas.

Water filters: one out let and one inlet with enough area to work with be ready that fit to any type of filters for whole house and another under kitchen sink for drinking.

Extra consideration: connect one pipe from attic to your car porch if your hse is a double/triple storey. When you need high pressure to wash car or porch you have your pump at attic. With the pump pressure plus gravity you got a very high water pressure coming down the ground floor and using the right water nozzle you can get 60 to 80+ psi that you can shoot across the road into your neighbour oppsite house hall or their roof top!

Many others....
weikee
post Apr 6 2012, 10:03 AM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Apr 5 2012, 06:11 PM)
Thanks for the infor. I m in the middle of design my water piping system. Collecting some specification and infor. smile.gif
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Get an experience plumber, they can advise you better. Planing and actual implementation can be very difference.
ozak
post Apr 6 2012, 10:35 AM

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QUOTE(stevie8 @ Apr 6 2012, 09:16 AM)
Ozak,

Things that you may want to consider:

The pump: type of pump, location of pump especially double storey, 3 storey hse. Pump swtiches, pump access, pump asorber and cover to reduce noise, pump piping easy disembly with union and stop valves, by passes.

Piping: types of pipes from main to house, to the tank, in the wall, hot and cold piping, by passes, outlets and type of outlets especially for bathroom.

Stopvalves: use standard valves that allow you to change the "standard" rubber inside that is available in the market especially those consealed in the wall, no plastic but metal valves in these consealed areas.

Water filters: one out let and one inlet with enough area to work with be ready that fit to any type of filters for whole house and another under kitchen sink for drinking.

Extra consideration: connect one pipe from attic to your car porch if your hse is a double/triple storey. When you need high pressure to wash car or porch you have your pump at attic. With the pump pressure plus gravity you got a very high water pressure coming down the ground floor and using the right water nozzle you can get 60 to 80+ psi that you can shoot across the road into your neighbour oppsite house hall or their roof top!

Many others....
*
Thanks for the advise. I have take consideration all this thing and not much problem for me. Just need to collect some spec and infor on some parts and experience user here.

I m thinking using some energy saving pump and which are not using AC. Vibration and noise reduce materail already found. The pump will be locate ontop the double storey below/beside the tank. So should be no problem with the low pressure. Just the pressure tank need how big and can fit the place or not. Need some calculation

Vavle, piping, filter etc have been takencare too. For car porch pipe, not intend to use the pump side. It suck power and pressure not high enough. I have a karcher pressure pump which give out 120psi. Use it to blast anything front/back of my house. That is good enough.

Now into how to design the auto backup for the pump failure, over pressure and no water supply.

The remain haven't solve in my head is, can the kicthen sink water supply joint to the water tank and not direct supply. Any contaminate for the water and safe to use or not. Even with filter. hmm.gif
ozak
post Apr 6 2012, 10:49 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Apr 6 2012, 10:03 AM)
Get an experience plumber, they can advise you better. Planing and actual implementation can be very difference.
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Yeah, good too to have some experience plumber inject some idea. Lastime when modify and install autobackup system, the plumber rclxub.gif when show him the plan. So got to step by step guide him.

I have some experience in plumbing but very longtime ago. So probably got some new technology around.
weikee
post Apr 6 2012, 10:51 AM

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Talk about pump...

My Bidet hose burst :|

Power come high maintenance.
ozak
post Apr 6 2012, 10:54 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Apr 6 2012, 10:51 AM)
Talk about pump...

My Bidet hose burst :|

Power come high maintenance.
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That is 1 of the safety system I need to design consider. When the water keep flow without stop and nobody no.
stevie8
post Apr 6 2012, 10:58 AM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Apr 6 2012, 10:35 AM)
Thanks for the advise. I have take consideration all this thing and not much problem for me. Just need to collect some spec and infor on some parts and experience user here.

I m thinking using some energy saving pump and which are not using AC. Vibration and noise reduce materail already found. The pump will be locate ontop the double storey below/beside the tank. So should be no problem with the low pressure. Just the pressure tank need how big and can fit the place or not. Need some calculation

Vavle, piping, filter etc have been takencare too. For car porch pipe, not intend to use the pump side. It suck power and pressure not high enough. I have a karcher pressure pump which give out 120psi. Use it to blast anything front/back of my house. That is good enough.

Now into how to design the auto backup for the pump failure, over pressure and no water supply.

The remain haven't solve in my head is, can the kicthen sink water supply joint to the water tank and not direct supply. Any contaminate for the water and safe to use or not. Even with filter. hmm.gif
*
I also have 120psi pressure pump but troblesome. Got to connect the electric power, joining the pipes and the cable and hose get in the way, everytime got to do the same and lazy and delay, delay the job to anothger day.

Pump failure auto backup? My design is the pump draw the water from tank at attic and a direct main (at attic) is connected to the after pump pipe and with a non return valve. With this connection when the pressure from main is high it will not trigger the pump (pump off). When the main pressure is low the pump will auto on. The non return valve prevent the water from the high pressure pump going into the main pipe and to the meter.

Over pressure you can use a pressure reducing valve. No water supply you dig a well hahahaha.

For kitchen it is a practice that you do not draw water indirectly like from tank. It has bacteria and living organism living in the tank especially if you do not use the tank water often. The direct water contain chlorine and chlormine that kill micro organism. Even with filter and in fact filter give you a sense of false security. The filter inside itself has lot and lot of bateria living there happily in the absent of the cholrine. If you put a worm in the filter you will find more worms after a month...yak!
ozak
post Apr 6 2012, 11:19 AM

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QUOTE(stevie8 @ Apr 6 2012, 10:58 AM)
I also have 120psi pressure pump but troblesome. Got to connect the electric power, joining the pipes and the cable and hose get in the way, everytime got to do the same and lazy and delay, delay the job to anothger day.

Pump failure auto backup? My design is the pump draw the water from tank at attic and a direct main (at attic) is connected to the after pump pipe and with a non return valve. With this connection when the pressure from main is high it will not trigger the pump (pump off). When the main pressure is low the pump will auto on. The non return valve prevent the water from the high pressure pump going into the main pipe and to the meter.

Over pressure you can use a pressure reducing valve. No water supply you dig a well hahahaha.

For kitchen it is a practice that you do not draw water indirectly like from tank. It has bacteria and living organism living in the tank especially if you do not use the tank water often. The direct water contain chlorine and chlormine that kill micro organism. Even with filter and in fact filter give you a sense of false security. The filter inside itself has lot and lot of bateria living there happily in the absent of the cholrine. If you put a worm in the filter you will find more worms after a month...yak!
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Yeah, troublesome abit when need connect this and that. But I love to play with that high pressure gun. Damn shiok. He....

When the pump fail, I need an auto bypass the pump till the pump been repair. Another is what weikee experience when the bidet hose burst and the pump keep running and the water keep flowing without anybody know.

The kitchen water supply is a problem when I want to use pump. Left this out without the pump, the kitchen side will have low pressure.
skng03
post Apr 6 2012, 11:58 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Apr 6 2012, 10:51 AM)
Talk about pump...

My Bidet hose burst :|

Power come high maintenance.
*
very common problem if use pressure pump, i found the bidet from DOE which come with black color flex. hose can stand high pressure, have this in my old man house with constantly +-50psi for few years still not fail thumbup.gif thumbup.gif those nice chrome color bidet will fail in few months doh.gif

But having such high pressure @ bidet is going to hurt your ASSSH sweat.gif sweat.gif

QUOTE(ozak @ Apr 6 2012, 11:19 AM)


The kitchen water supply is a problem when I want to use pump. Left this out without the pump, the kitchen side will have low pressure.
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Tot u were talking about the auto bypass @ the pump then i presume your incoming pressure should be good enough for your kitchen tap hmm.gif hmm.gif else your use a mixer in kitchen lor, cold water from main, hot water from pump wink.gif
ozak
post Apr 6 2012, 12:11 PM

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QUOTE(skng03 @ Apr 6 2012, 11:58 AM)

Tot u were talking about the auto bypass @ the pump then i presume your incoming pressure should be good enough for your kitchen tap hmm.gif  hmm.gif  else your use a mixer in kitchen lor, cold water from main, hot water from pump wink.gif
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The main pipe pressure is not high. So thaught of every tap go through the pump to have good pressure. But the pump water is from the tank and not the main pipe.

Stevie8 advise not good and bacteria problem. So that would left the kicthen tap low pressure from the main.

The pump is for cold water and not hot water.
stevie8
post Apr 6 2012, 01:51 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Apr 6 2012, 12:11 PM)
The main pipe pressure is not high. So thaught of every tap go through the pump to have good pressure. But the pump water is from the tank and not the main pipe.

Stevie8 advise not good and bacteria problem. So that would left the kicthen tap low pressure from the main.

The pump is for cold water and not hot water.
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I presumed the tank sit at the attic. When you have main low pressure and have a pump drawing water from the tank you risk running pump dry!

First, the low main water find hard to climb up to the tank and take longer time to fill the tank. Worse when you use water from direct main like at the porch and kitchen the water could not reach the top tank.

Then, when the pump runs feeding your other taps the output is more than input to the tank and your tank could run empty and the pump kapbom. Unless you got a really big tank.

But bigger the tank the more disadvantage as it takes longer time to change over and promote bacteria growth. If want to know if your tank is growing micro organism is easy. Take a tough light, go up to the tank look at the bottom corners, if there are some sponge lilke things or spider web things or somethings feel soft or any such things, these are micro organism.


Added on April 6, 2012, 1:54 pmBTW, dont forget to empty and wash your tank once a year. You probably bathing with bacteria and if you have babies.

This post has been edited by stevie8: Apr 6 2012, 01:54 PM
weikee
post Apr 6 2012, 01:54 PM

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QUOTE(skng03 @ Apr 6 2012, 11:58 AM)
very common problem if use pressure pump, i found the bidet from DOE which come with black color flex. hose can stand high pressure, have this in my old man house with constantly +-50psi for few years still not fail thumbup.gif  thumbup.gif those nice chrome color bidet will fail in few months doh.gif

But having such high pressure @ bidet is going to hurt your ASSSH sweat.gif  sweat.gif

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Ok, I will survey on it. Black don't look nice woh.
windwong
post Apr 6 2012, 02:19 PM

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hey guys, can shed me some light how much will a grundfos cost??? Im in sarawak and the shop quote me 2000+++(he also not sure) for a 1 hp pump. he say a package including unknown pump+filter+LSL tank = rm3888?????
JinXXX
post Apr 6 2012, 02:20 PM

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@windwong , you can check the past few pages i think the approx price without installation is about 1.3k for the ch2 pump if im not mistaken

ozak
post Apr 6 2012, 02:25 PM

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QUOTE(stevie8 @ Apr 6 2012, 01:51 PM)
I presumed the tank sit at the attic. When you have main low pressure and have a pump drawing water from the tank you risk running pump dry!
The tank is ontop the house expose to the sun. (Outside). I have 2 tank connecting together which in my 14yrs of history, never run dry before. Unless I close the tap and wash the tank. If worry it to run dry, I can instal a floating switch for the pump. But I guess it is not neccessary.

QUOTE(stevie8 @ Apr 6 2012, 01:51 PM)
First, the low main water find hard to climb up to the tank and take longer time to fill the tank. Worse when you use water from direct main like at the porch and kitchen the water could not reach the top tank.

The 2 tank have a reserve of 4-5days of water with my current usage. Include vaporise from the sun. So you can imagine if I use the main kitchen and car porch water for 24hr and not a single drop of water to reach the tank.

QUOTE(stevie8 @ Apr 6 2012, 01:51 PM)
Then, when the pump runs feeding your other taps the output is more than input to the tank and your tank could run empty and the pump kapbom. Unless you got a really big tank.

Again the 2tank is more than what I need from my history of usage. With a floating switch as an option if worry.

QUOTE(stevie8 @ Apr 6 2012, 01:51 PM)
But bigger the tank the more disadvantage as it takes longer time to change over and promote bacteria growth. If want to know if your tank is growing micro organism is easy. Take a tough light, go up to the tank look at the bottom corners, if there are some sponge lilke things or spider web things or somethings feel soft or any such things, these are micro organism.


Added on April 6, 2012, 1:54 pmBTW, dont forget to empty and wash your tank once a year. You probably bathing with bacteria and if you have babies.
*
That is consent me with the tank bacteria and left the kitchen only joint the main water which have a low pressure. So still find a solution for this kitchen piping. I wash the tank 1-2x a yrs. For my current setup which have auto backup, when no water, the tank water will fit the kicthen tap. So far no problem with my stomach lah. sweat.gif

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