no time yet....summore lazy to bukak semua balik for now

Alive it is...kicking it is with a loud ratlling sound also. Lama sangat tak guna punya pasal

Question, was there a spring and a washer for each mount point previously? It's quite hard to tell from only pictures as there's a more appropriate mechanical explanation for it if you can furnish me the details.

Have no experience with the apogee but my storm was provided with a different method of mounting for A64 whereby the screw was rigidly mounted like a post and was similiar in mounting method to second picture but with two large nylon washers instead and a thick sturdy set of springs

Hurmmm, the I'd suggest trying a spring loaded method. Never failed me before ever since my early days of watercooling with a Maze 4 until now. It distributes the load evenly. But then again, the mounting method always did sucked for A64

This post has been edited by almostthere: Sep 1 2007, 01:58 PM

hahahaha.....metalzone now sifu WC eh now? So long never check in here. Let's see:

Lexus65, for your question, no worries since the head pressure being supplied isn't sufficient to cause what one would call a water hammer situation so no need to worry about that. In fact my water pumo which costs "only" RM70 lasted me 5 years so far constant on and off. And as for my waterblock, well no leakgaes so far bar the insufficient tightening of barbs after cleaning I sometimes forget to do.

what to do...all listen to you liau and no one listens to me. Old man liao....no one listens to old fart's stories

Well if you're on the cheap, I'd suggest those vinyl tubings by ACE hardware. Quite thick walls but a bit stiff but trust me, it won't kink even past 90 degree bends. About RM3.50 a metre. And I agree with mwetalzone about the clamps. I had to stagger my clamps in order to secure my tubes. Speaking of tubes LOL I haven't fitted on the DD hi-flo barbs yet.

bogel punya setup la tuh....takya citer panjang2

Same goes for the Apogee due to it's diamond matrix pin cushion. Depending on the quality of water and if coolant used, it may affect flow rates quite significantly

This post has been edited by almostthere: Nov 17 2007, 09:12 PM

If I were you and want a lower maintenance loop, stay awal totally from coolants since what they say about it is quite true

Good suggestion for you is to rip apart the back cover of the P3800. It's trapping the heat being emitted from the motor housing. I did the same with my siber-ah-kua and since then lesser heat trapped and introduced into loop. Putting rad before pump will not solve matters at all since the main issue of overheating is in the motor itself since P3800 was meant to be primarily a submerged based pump

This post has been edited by almostthere: Dec 4 2007, 07:19 PM

Leceh only laaa. Just crack open the backcover and let air circulation do the job.

Better if you guys read this. I think many missed this since it was long ago

http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/165070#

EDIT: grammar gone momentarily. Harap maaf

This post has been edited by almostthere: Dec 4 2007, 07:39 PM

didn't mean you laaa...relax laa bro. Meant the others who are asking about P3800 leh

agreed since LYP tak boleh pakai since the last company who did it gulung edi (OP maaa). But now at least can find Swiftech easily, last time mau cari tubing and pump also like wan to die nia

Gulung edi laa since no sapot from boss himself. Main kereta already now. That's why in the end Shahril try to sell Thermaltake stuff. Memang gone case liao and when LYP want to nego for new lease, cannot afford the new lease

Correction here

1. Flow rate affects delta values of certain water block design. Usually of pre-Apogee designs. This is because water evacuation influences the heat soak at plate itself

2. Flow rate however does not affect radiator efficiency. What affects it is these:
i. Number of passes
ii. "Bar and fin design" or "tube and fin design"
iii. Material of construction
iv. Restrictiveness of end tanks
v. Air flow restriction of radiator
vi. Bar rows in radiator

3. High pressure is not of a worry to consider because if you did your homework well and sealed up tightly hoses at barb points, you should not be worrying stuff like that. If it was, pumps like those from Iwaki wouldn't be of recommendation for big loops

However I do agree with your last paragraph of statement as balance is a key issue. No point in having a 3*120mm BIX radiator when all you're doing is cooling a processor. Nor does a Delta 25mm*120mm tri-blade fan going to be of help if you use a low air restriction radiator either

A damned good guide which I keep referring to is this:

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showpo...319&postcount=1


This post has been edited by almostthere: Dec 7 2007, 07:29 PM

not really since heatercores/cooling cores are generally not so restrictive. What makes it supposedly restrictive is how the inlet and outlet is oriented. Otherwise it's no worse then a Black Ice Xtreme. This is because since oil has a lower viscosity then water especially after factoring sludge build up, less restriction is quite critical

I know metalzone is gonna screw me for this but finally installed the hi-flow brbs drom DD on my Storm. Seems it allows faste bleeding of airlocks but on the downside reverted back to my old BIP radiator which is a bit restrictive compared to the MCR220. Still gurgling but will run it a few days to bleed out the airlock

there's nothing wrong using cap ayam pumps here. I've used cap ayam pumps for 7 years and none has given me any problems. What you need to find out before buying is these:

1. Make sure it's an inline based pump, submerged one's will spoil after awhile if not submerged.
2. What's the flowrate and head pressure (Units: QMax and HMax)
3. Is the inlet and outlet able to use brass barbs which can be screwed on straight away? (Trust me, some pumps require the use of a platic adapot, that you don't want)
4. What's the power consumption as remember that maain law of energy conservation which is
net energy in (power consumed) = pumping power + losses (Heat)

Do your research well and you might just come away a happy user

yeah they do and quite a few of us are using it since it's cheap (It's vinyl based tubes actually). Besides that if you can find shops specializing in tubing for machinery you can even find oil tubes with embedded steel coils which would definitely prevent kinking

This post has been edited by almostthere: Jan 21 2008, 10:49 AM