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 Kitchen Sink, which one

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bengang13
post Oct 1 2014, 10:14 PM

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QUOTE(DeanWong118 @ Oct 1 2014, 09:32 PM)
Under mount sink is very common now. Where did you get dis contractor?
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yeah lousy contractor but already paid rm500 deposit. their quartz was cheap though. but honestly I don't really mind the top mount since I am using granite. my only concern is the silicon seal
BrandNewStart
post Oct 1 2014, 10:43 PM

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QUOTE(bengang13 @ Oct 1 2014, 10:14 PM)
yeah lousy contractor but already paid rm500 deposit. their quartz was cheap though. but honestly I don't really mind the top mount since I am using granite. my only concern is the silicon seal
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Oh, u changed back to granite. What sink did you buy?
idoblu
post Oct 1 2014, 10:50 PM

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QUOTE(bengang13 @ Oct 1 2014, 10:14 PM)
yeah lousy contractor but already paid rm500 deposit. their quartz was cheap though. but honestly I don't really mind the top mount since I am using granite. my only concern is the silicon seal
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i wonder if i stick a piece of those door seals will it work? without silicon.
just set the sink on the counter .

like this -
http://www.duckbrand.com/products/weatheri...eals/rope-caulk

bengang13
post Oct 1 2014, 10:57 PM

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QUOTE(BrandNewStart @ Oct 1 2014, 10:43 PM)
Oh, u changed back to granite. What sink did you buy?
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yeah..coz I thought the wet kitchen use the stainless steel. dry kitchen not so heavy duty use the granite. I am inclined towards granite since my quartz is black so black sink black top.

most likely haustern. someone selling from RM850 plus one stainless steel mixer.

apparently they have quartz sink too

QUOTE(idoblu @ Oct 1 2014, 10:50 PM)
i wonder if i stick a piece of those door seals will it work? without silicon.
just set the sink on the counter .

like this -
http://www.duckbrand.com/products/weatheri...eals/rope-caulk
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is it water proof? if water proof then ok I guess but still it would not look nice unless you can cut it to shape. I was wondering if they have black silicon. someone told me they have those better quality silicon(less acidic) which will not turn black...don't quote believe that ...
idoblu
post Oct 1 2014, 11:03 PM

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i bought before those anti mildew silicon but my contractor never use it and gasak it sad.gif
BrandNewStart
post Oct 1 2014, 11:13 PM

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QUOTE(bengang13 @ Oct 1 2014, 10:57 PM)
yeah..coz I thought the wet kitchen use the stainless steel. dry kitchen not so heavy duty use the granite. I am inclined towards granite since my quartz is black so black sink black top.

most likely haustern. someone selling from RM850 plus one stainless steel mixer.

apparently they have quartz sink too
is it water proof? if water proof then ok I guess but still it would not look nice unless you can cut it to shape. I was wondering if they have black silicon. someone told me they have those better quality silicon(less acidic) which will not turn black...don't quote believe that ...
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Oh I see.
Actually since you are using quartz, it's pretty straight forward to undermount the sink I thought? What was the contractor not confident about?
BrandNewStart
post Oct 1 2014, 11:14 PM

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QUOTE(bengang13 @ Oct 1 2014, 09:11 PM)
Haaaa. Like that u so fast get your sink already. Lol. My kitchen cabinet contractor not confident of doing undermount. Guess I am stuck with top mount. My only gripe is the transparent silicon which I believe over time will sure turn to spotted black.
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He no mess about ok. He travel hundreds of kilometers within a day too. I'm still impressed till today smile.gif
bengang13
post Oct 1 2014, 11:22 PM

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QUOTE(BrandNewStart @ Oct 1 2014, 11:13 PM)
Oh I see.
Actually since you are using quartz, it's pretty straight forward to undermount the sink I thought? What was the contractor not confident about?
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well they say the granite sink is very heavy....


QUOTE(BrandNewStart @ Oct 1 2014, 11:14 PM)
He no mess about ok. He travel hundreds of kilometers within a day too. I'm still impressed till today smile.gif
*
huh
bengang13
post Oct 1 2014, 11:32 PM

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QUOTE(idoblu @ Oct 1 2014, 11:03 PM)
i bought before those anti mildew silicon but my contractor never use it and gasak it sad.gif
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lol kesian.. how much and where to buy?

but I seriously don't think there is such thing as fungus free silicon. just better quality or takes longer for it to form
idoblu
post Oct 2 2014, 12:00 AM

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S'aimer
post Oct 2 2014, 03:40 AM

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Sorry, if i am following this right, you want to mount granite sink on quartz counter top?

If that is the case, quartz is heavier and more durable than granite. So why can't the contractor mount the granite sink on quartz countertop? rolleyes.gif

QUOTE(bengang13 @ Oct 2 2014, 12:22 AM)
well they say the granite sink is very heavy....
huh
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OneMoreDay
post Oct 2 2014, 04:04 AM

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QUOTE(S'aimer @ Oct 2 2014, 03:40 AM)
Sorry, if i am following this right, you want to mount granite sink on quartz counter top?

If that is the case, quartz is heavier and more durable than granite. So why can't the contractor mount the granite sink on quartz countertop?  rolleyes.gif
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This whole "too heavy" business is a frustrating thing to encounter. Because there are ways of being creative with problem solving on the job. There must be a way the contractor can meet the client's needs without falling back on their old ways.

The sink should come with mounting hardware for undermount installation (if it's designed for undermount).

Here is a pdf of the installation guide for a Blanco granite sink.

OneMoreDay
post Oct 2 2014, 04:17 AM

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Also, here's some more info on installation with adhesives. Source: here.

"Using these undermount kits for installing stainless and ceramic sinks in countertop applications has been around for quite awhile.

Whether its a Corian, Granite or Quartz countertop like Silestone- they provide a quick and easy way to bond a mechanical fasteneing device to the underside of the countertop.

There are many ways to accomplish the bond using different types of glue but as a general rule, the application and preperation process are importantl keys to success whichever adhesive you choose.

I would reccomend a toughened acrylic or a fast curing epoxy that will provide impact resistance if you happen to bump the post after it is bonded to the surface. Many fabricators simply use the seaming adhesive itself and this is a great option as well.

When bonding to Natural stones like granite, be sure to remove the contamination left from the quarrying process on the back of the slab. This is best done by grinding down to the meat of the stone and then cleaning away all the dust and slurry that can be imbedded in the rough underside of the slab. If you fail to do this, any bond you do create will be extremly suseptible to failure. Even on Solid Surfaces like Corian, removing contaminants and increasing the surface area by way of abrasion (sanding) will greatly improve the ultimate bond strength. These general guidelines and can be applied in many situations if you want to increase the overall strrength of almost any bond."


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Undermount Fastener Instructions Source: here.


Using GW 4300 All Purpose Structural Adhesives
when Bonding Undermount Fasteners


user posted image

When properly applied, GW 4300 All Purpose Structural Adhesive provides impact resistant bonds to Natural Stone, Quartz and Solid Surfaces

The following instructions will help ensure that you achieve the highest possible bond strength and performance when using GW 4300 All Purpose Structural Adhesive to fasten a bolt in an undermount application.

Natural Stone-Area Preparation

It is critical that the area for bonding be free of moisture and any remaining slurry left from the quarrying process. For Natural Stone applications, a diamond cup wheel can be used to grind the area that you are going to bond to. It is not enough to simply wipe away dust with alcohol or acetone. To remove moisture, a weed burner, torch or heat gun may be used on porous stones. A final wipe with acetone or denatured alcohol will ensure a clean surface and the best performance.

Solid Surface, Quartz and Composites-Area Preparation

The area for bonding must be free of moisture and any other contamination. To increase adhesion, scuff the area with a medium grit paper before cleaning with acetone or denatured alcohol. Always ensure that the area is clean before proceeding.

user posted image


Step by Step- Cartridges (w/ Mixing Tip)

1. Once the area has been properly prepped and is free of contaminants, dust, moisture etc. Wipe clean with acetone or denatured alcohol and let dry completely. For Natural stone, grinding with diamonds will greatly increase the bond strength.

2. Mark the placement of the bonding fastener with a pencil or marker

user posted image

3. Place the 400ml or 50ml cartridge in the appropriate dispensing gun, purge a small amount of glue into a disposable container and then attach the mixing nozzle.

4. Apply approximately 5-10mls of glue to the area outlined ensuring that you completely cover your marks. There should be enough glue to allow significant flow up through the holes in the base plate of the fastener while gently pushing it into the glue.

user posted image

user posted image

5. You can further increase bond strength by smoothing over the glue, fully encapsulating the base plate. Allow to cure 15-20 minutes before applying any force.

user posted image

Step by Step-50ml and Plunger( No Mixing Tip)

1. Once the area has been properly prepped and is free of contaminants, dust, moisture etc. Wipe clean with acetone or denatured alcohol and let dry completely. For Natural stone, grinding with diamonds will greatly increase the bond strength.

2. Mark the placement of the bonding fastener with a pencil or marker
3. Remove the cap from the 50ml cartridge and use the plunger to displace roughly half of the cartridge into a disposable cup. This should provide enough glue to bond approximately 4 clips.

4. Using a popsicle stick, stir the glue for 20-30 seconds to ensure a good mix of the two components.

user posted image

5. Apply approximately 5-10mls of glue to the area outlined ensuring that you completely cover your marks. There should be enough glue to allow significant flow up through the holes in the base plate of the fastener while gently pushing it into the glue.

user posted image

6. You can further increase bond strength by smoothing over the glue, fully encapsulating the base plate. Allow to cure 15-20 minutes before applying any force.


This post has been edited by OneMoreDay: Oct 2 2014, 04:18 AM
bengang13
post Oct 2 2014, 09:25 AM

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QUOTE(S'aimer @ Oct 2 2014, 03:40 AM)
Sorry, if i am following this right, you want to mount granite sink on quartz counter top?

If that is the case, quartz is heavier and more durable than granite. So why can't the contractor mount the granite sink on quartz countertop?  rolleyes.gif
*
No my ori plan was undermount. Reason being is because I do not want the silicon to be exposed.
My contractor say can only do topmount which is like you say just mount the sink on to the quartz countertop. It's an easy way out for them.
I am ok with top mount but I don't like the exposed silicon.
idoblu
post Oct 2 2014, 10:06 AM

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QUOTE(bengang13 @ Oct 2 2014, 09:25 AM)
I am ok with top mount but I don't like the exposed silicon.
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what do you mean by "exposed"?
undermount or topmount, both still need silicon
bengang13
post Oct 2 2014, 10:09 AM

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QUOTE(idoblu @ Oct 2 2014, 10:06 AM)
what do you mean by "exposed"?
undermount or topmount, both still need silicon
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undermount ppl cannot see the silicon mar..its there and even when it turns moldy its underneath...if top mount it quite visible no?
idoblu
post Oct 2 2014, 10:28 AM

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about the same to me
halcyon27
post Oct 2 2014, 10:56 AM

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QUOTE(bengang13 @ Oct 2 2014, 10:09 AM)
undermount ppl cannot see the silicon mar..its there and even when it turns moldy its underneath...if top mount it quite visible no?
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Like or don't like still need to apply it. But... silicon has three types and it's crucial the installers know which one to use. Acid curing, neutral curing or alkali curing. Using the wrong type esp on stainless steel ones can cause it to rust prematurely. Acid curing releases acetic acid fumes. Most shower or bath area recommends neutral curing silicone.
bengang13
post Oct 2 2014, 11:12 AM

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QUOTE(idoblu @ Oct 2 2014, 10:28 AM)
about the same to me
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Undernoubt ppl don't stick their head to the sink and peek ma. The opening of the table top qlso slightly smaller than the sink thus hiding it
QUOTE(halcyon27 @ Oct 2 2014, 10:56 AM)
Like or don't like still need to apply it. But... silicon has three types and it's crucial the installers know which one to use. Acid curing, neutral curing or alkali curing. Using the wrong type esp on stainless steel ones can cause it to rust prematurely. Acid curing releases acetic acid fumes. Most shower or bath area recommends neutral curing silicone.
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So for kitchen sink use what type? I read the soap, dampness is the main cause
halcyon27
post Oct 2 2014, 11:57 AM

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QUOTE(bengang13 @ Oct 2 2014, 11:12 AM)
Undernoubt ppl don't stick their head to the sink and peek ma. The opening of the table top qlso slightly smaller than the sink thus hiding it

So for kitchen sink use what type?  I read the soap, dampness is the main cause
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Neutral cure silicone caulk. Google it. Soap mostly alkali so doubt it but leaving curry stains on it too long can hasten the rust process.

OK, here's a good read-up on silicone caulks wrt choosing the right one for ceramic or stainless steel sinks.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Oct 2 2014, 02:47 PM

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