1. no use recomposing with dynamic area, unless of cos the subject when recompose is not within the area.
2. why dont u use single point? why trust the camera to focus on what u want when it might not?
3. and AF-ON is the same as pressing ur shutter half-way to focus and will track in AF-C...if u had even tried u would already know.
if u want to recompose in AF-C, what u need to use is AF-lock.

what is the term used for when coloured lines are seen at the edge of objects in a photograph?

D90 + 70-300 VR


p/s: hosted by fb

color fringe

Single point ? But i tot only used for shooting still object?

Use single point , will out of focus wor , if the object moving

hmmm i think nvm lar , thanks for teaching. I will try to find answer in google thanks u

k thanks.. i just spotted this problem in one of my photos.. i shot my nikon lens cap beside a window indoors today.. and it turns out the brighter area of the word "Nikon" has green colour fringe while the darker part has purplish... what is the cause of this? i cant upload right now though.. no card reader..

k thanks.. i just spotted this problem in one of my photos.. i shot my nikon lens cap beside a window indoors today.. and it turns out the brighter area of the word "Nikon" has green colour fringe while the darker part has purplish... what is the cause of this? i cant upload right now though.. no card reader..

20110320-_DSC1447 by Pang YZ, on Flickr

Comments are welcomed 

k thanks.. i just spotted this problem in one of my photos.. i shot my nikon lens cap beside a window indoors today.. and it turns out the brighter area of the word "Nikon" has green colour fringe while the darker part has purplish... what is the cause of this? i cant upload right now though.. no card reader..

k thanks.. i just spotted this problem in one of my photos.. i shot my nikon lens cap beside a window indoors today.. and it turns out the brighter area of the word "Nikon" has green colour fringe while the darker part has purplish... what is the cause of this? i cant upload right now though.. no card reader..

u need to magic letter "N" on your lens. correct me if wrong. or u need ED or more aspherical elements

u need to magic letter "N" on your lens. correct me if wrong. or u need ED or more aspherical elements

u need to magic letter "N" on your lens. correct me if wrong. or u need ED or more aspherical elements

ED is what again ar? forget    dun tell me it is "past tense" 

ED (Extra-low Dispersion) Glass: 1975 

"Extra-low Dispersion glass." Nikon started using this only in their super speed super teles in the late 1960s. These lenses say "ED" on and have a gold band around the barrel. All ED lenses say so.

Since only the most expensive lenses used or needed this glass it acquired a cachet. Therefore Nikon started using the moniker on cheaper lenses, and today it seems everything says ED on it. Short and normal lenses have no need of this glass; it's benefit is reducing secondary chromatic aberration, which is green/magenta color fringes that used to plague lenses of 300mm and up.

ED glass is an improvement over the fluorite used by other makers at the time because it is hard enough to use for outside elements, unlike the soft fluorite.

ED glass helps eliminate secondary chromatic aberration (green-magenta color fringes) which is what previously prevented the design of practical super speed, super sharp super teles.

Discount brands now purport to use this glass. Ignore all these claims; they may or may not use this glass, but there are far more important factors in lens design than just what sort of glass was used. See the reviews for specific performance tests.

ED glass is less stable with temperature than conventional glass, and so the focal lengths of these lenses change slightly with temperature. Therefore there is no hard infinity focus stop on ED lenses because the point of infinity focus will change a bit with extremes of temperature.

ED glass also has a lower index of refraction so it requires more deeply curved elements for the same focal length.

The whole point of owning a Nikon is to use these super tele lenses, so don't be a bone head and waste your time with non-Nikon super telephoto lenses. You will find that when you go to sell a Nikon super telephoto that you will sell it for what you paid for it, so it's sort of free. If you have a discount lens (Tokina, Tamron, Spooginar, Sigma, etc.) you will have to sell it for far less than you paid, so the discount lenses actually cost MORE to own.

have u ever heard of panning? and what are u trying to shoot anyway?is it a fast moving object? i cant understand when u said u r trying to recompose moving subject

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Added on March 20, 2011, 8:45 pm
usually it happens when u use it wide open. example f1.8/f1.4. it'll go away if u use smaller apertures.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromatic_aberration

someone show this forget what time ago i repost 

Nice picture
Shooting at wide open apertures usually give colour fringing(CA)

N lens usually will solve the "ghosting" problem.

Anyway, Chromatic Abberation happens because the individual Red, Green and Blue light rays were not focused properly, causing color fringe on the edge. I don't know whether this is counted as a lens issue.

i was doing 55mm f/5.6 O.O should be lens problem.. how lehh >< using 1855...

Bare with it.

i was doing 55mm f/5.6 O.O should be lens problem.. how lehh >< using 1855...

Single point ? But i tot only used for shooting still object?

Use single point , will out of focus wor , if the object moving

hmmm i think nvm lar , thanks for teaching. I will try to find answer in google thanks u