AFR gone wrong liao, need to tune ur carb or if worse case engine piston ring and valve seal k.o, it also can cause by bad spark plug, need to change already.

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Added on May 31, 2011, 10:28 amWhat is the sign of faulty Mechanical Fuel Pump? When start engine hard to rev and sometime engine wont run smoothly for juz a few sec. Could it cause by fuel pump jam or sign of faulty?

This post has been edited by EnochKeng: May 31 2011, 10:28 AM

snap a photo of it and we can tell u... there are too many different batch proton came out with all sorts of different equipment as standard...

not exhaust bocor la... should either be rich AF ratio or carbon just flew out...

strut bar bolted onto the absorber is not good because during cornering, forces will act on the strut tower... when u bolt a strut bar onto ur absorber, these acting force will create unnecessary stress on the absorber...
the thing we wants to strengthen here is chassis... not the absorber... bolting strut bar onto the chassis makes easy installation and removal... but welding it to the chassis slightly improves rigidity compare to bolting onto it...
u see race cars have roll cages bolted or welded to the chassis??...

as for effects after installing the UR rear arb... this very much depends on what suspension u currently using... if already on sports suspension or coilovers, improvement is minor... on oem suspension, improvement should be far better....

check ur plugs, plug cables and distributor unit first... make sure they are firing well...
change ur fuel filter first... after that only look into ur fuel pump...
fuel pump hardly damage... the only damage i experienced when using it was when it is leaking fuel...

Tuning carb should be below RM50. That is for tuning using a machine. CO2 something like that. Dah lupa. Haha.

i see...that's for the tips cata.....next time i should modify my strut to mount on the chasis instead.....UR antoroll is expensive...i need something cheaper......since i am using LMST OEM suspension(which is hard so i consider it a sport one)..izzit?

thanks thanks

how to check distributor? start engine and plug out the plug cable to see the spark? will change the fuel filter this service..leaking fuel? the rubber hose broken or the fuel pump leaking?

This post has been edited by EnochKeng: May 31 2011, 04:59 PM

lmst oem suspension stiff??...
u havent sat in coilovers yet huh...

unplug the cable...
find any used working sparkplug and cucuk inside...
make sure the kaki electrode touching any metal part of ur car... do not touch the spark plug with ur bare hands... holding the insulated plug cable is ok...
start engine and check if got spark or not....
repeat the steps for all 4 plug cables....

last time my case was fuel pump unit leaking.. not the hose... hence need to change the whole unit...

Only Proton uses dat engine till now. FYI, it has stop production for quite a while ever since Campro is introduce. Other car makers like Hyundai has stop fitting this engine (4G15) in their car long time ago.

Saga BLM ain't using 4G13/15 anymore.

but LMST still in production rite??starting BLM new engine introduced.....

hey, does sifu guan know how to install CAI on lmst? if he know, tmr i drop by his shop =D

thx for tips now need to find spark plug. lol
But i did realized, it only happened on cold start. vry rough idling at 200 rpm. step on gas for few times then only it started auto choke. what's wrong? could it be distributor?

Now the door lock keep spoiling one by one ....making sound when i lock it....like robotcop

yes he should know how to do it...

could be carburetor problem as wel...

do saga blm count?

Codyx same prob as me. But mine rarely happen. Some time only. Guys, any recommendation on how to reduce engine screaming at high rev? 4-1 header?

count what??...

let it scream.. soon u will enjoy the sound...

Hi, someone new here...New to 'driving world"..lolz...I would like to know what accessories can add to increase the car horsepower..driving iswara 1995.. ..and I also wan to install a reverse sensor..any recommendation accessories shop in kl area with quality and affordable workmanship..

Tq

This post has been edited by piecereborn: Jun 1 2011, 12:45 AM

hi
feel free to join us
welcome to saga iswara entuastist hangout
my word of advise start maintaining/replacing worn out wear and tear parts on your new found transport
start from tire , braking system and suspension
eg:tyre condition , brake pad/fluid and spring/absorber and all the bush and link
after all is check and are in good condition u are good to go in extracting the hidden potential of our old proud c21/22 saga/iswara
as it is not funny to travel around in a car that is accident prone and wasting all the effort that u put in your car
reverse sensor are available in acc shop or some workshop
price start from 80 myr for a basic kit that emmit beep or up to 300 myr for a camera system
note : this is the price i quote from the shop i that i asked , price may be vary according to your area
if u are intrested in getting the price i qoute you feel free to pm i will provide you the detail

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Added on June 1, 2011, 4:19 ami've used a 3m carb cleaner
it clean of all the gum , sludge at the car and jet and i have better respond but till the end where my carb is too faulty the carb cleaner doesn't provide the sufficent job to restore it
a carb rebuild would be better
the to bring ur car to your regular forman to tune your carb and see whether it will do any good
a tune may cost nothing to 50 buck depend to your forman
note:a carb rebuild is the last result if the carb are too worn out and i dont simply ask ppl to rebuild their carb

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Added on June 1, 2011, 4:23 amFeel free to report to admin if you find it out of topic or any misinfomation in the post
sie was a sagaiswara entuastist hangout place and the rules and regulation in this thread doesnt state that we forumer cannot compare our fc with each other and here every forumer entitle to voice their opinion here
thanks and have a good day

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Added on June 1, 2011, 4:26 amdoor locking central gun faulty hence stuck and will emit the sound you describe
a door locking solonoid will cost 18 myr a piece of all door other than driver door from the shop i get parts from
the driver side cost 28 if i a mnot mistaken

This post has been edited by sinister_sid: Jun 1 2011, 04:26 AM

As I mentioned it before, my car's carb got issues.
I haven't go check nor retune yet (cuz final exam now lah)
So I wanna try to diagnose as much as possible myself, with the help of all the sifu-sifu here lah of cos.

So lemme get this straight, before I got this problem, I was running RON97 V-Power. Then I go for EON to do the 35000km service and timing belt change (car is second hand '04 LMST n-line). The mech there got adjust my carb abit lah, I think he mentioned something about the idling too low, causing the car shaking, so he make it abit smoother lor. Ok after that so far so good lah. (i could be wrong, cuz im not very well-versed in malay, and he speaks kinda fast )

Then I still continue use RON97 cuz heard stories about RON95 will cause engine knock and bla bla bla (I was dumb I know). Then when RON97 increase to RM2.9/liter, i started pumping RON95extra from petronas, no issues so far (RM30 can go about 200+km). Then one night, my buntut gatal lor, go play drag race with my friend's BLM (i mentioned this before also ) Then problem liaw. I don't know why or how, just because I floored the car that one time, make my car's FC increase like hell (RM50 RON95xtra go for 150+km left 1 bar of fuel).

I asked before, and Fleek suggest me go retune my carb, but can I know what can I do in the mean time? Can I retify this myself? And what is the cause of this? I really want to know to avoid history from repeating again. I have little to no knowledge on mechanics (i learn about car's parts from video games, youtube videos, speedhunters, and uni textbook). I've tried ask a parts dealer about my problem and he says its because of my engine oil and spark plug (which i dont think this is the issue right now, cuz I've just went for service like 1-2months ago, and I think he just want to earn money from me so i dun give a damn about this).

Lastly, thanks for reading this long post. Sorry for being a noob here, but I am willing to learn! TQ.

Oh and my engine after the service, idles around 900 to 1000+rpm with aircon on, and 1000-1100+rpm when aircon off. During engine autochoking, about 1300+rpm.

Thanks again. Peace.

reminded of my reverse sensor died a month ago

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Added on June 1, 2011, 10:29 amforgot to mention i changed all the CLS for all doors by brothers...cheap ones...since the ori one all died when i brought this car.....what's the point to change again when it have a short lifespan? any alternatives?

thanks

This post has been edited by Codyx: Jun 1 2011, 10:30 AM

Well,as i know the idle screw is also affected by turning the autochoke screw (just found tat just nw). Maybe your adjust the autochoke screw too much as ur idle almost same as mine,i hit 1.5krpm almost every morning even after the engine is warm up and my idle aircon off screw is not even touching the lever....so i readjust my autochoke screw now cold start 800~900 rpm, idle when engine hot 900~1000 rpm and aircon on 1000 rpm as well