Base oil and additive is a chemistry...  Just like nasi lemak, you need good rice and nice sambal..

you got the point.. But even for the case of mineral, I prefer group 2 and above base oil.. I had been to a few lube blending plant, some oil I will avoid using.. Just like the case of nasi lemak.. Good ingredient but lousy cook..

I think we are in the same frequency , caltex delo 400 15w/40 API CI-4/SL, come with chevron hydro isomerise base oil. Isosyn = iso synthetic. This oil come with good viscosity index, some moly and adequate TBN no. I buy 200 liter drum. But at caltex station, 5 liter pack cost quite alot. Cheers.

I use delo 400 in my camry now..

can anyone tell me 10W40 and 15W40 which type is better?

currently im using VOLTRONIC 15W40 for my 22's old carburetor saga sedan.

and i dont know 10W40 is better or 15W40?coz the workshop mechanic

took 15W40 for my car.

I said countless times already, i blew my engine with magnatec. Big nono

i am slightly confuse after reading the debate on mineral oil and FS OCI (i assume oil change interval?)

So what's exactly the benefit of FS over mineral if both is actually better be changed at 5k? as it sounds like contaminant is more of a reason to change oil rather than the protection wearing off...
the cost of FS is a lot higher.. a bit concern coz the car manual stated FS and oil change every 10k...

my estima, wish, myvi etc also running with different brand of fully synthetic engine oil... i dun see the problems at all

even at the same level of grade, i do believe the oil quality for mineral,semi and fully is different.

if u r driving an old car wit FS, then it may consider a waste of money.

if u r driving a newer gen of vehicles and running wit mineral oil, i think you are abusing it 

different ppl different though bro...maybe u prefer non-fs

but i only stick to fs.... all my trans/axle fluid are wit synthetic...nothing is mineral based

but of coz, it all depends on what car you are driving to decide what engine oil to use. i.e i dun see a point for you to use FS oil that cost over rm200 in an old iswara....which not so applicable...and if u r driving vellfire/estima/alphard....i dun think u will use mineral oil to the engine also.

as i refer bc to my vehicle recommendation for engine oil..its written : " it is essential to choose the correct grade, quality and viscosity engine oil to ensure satisfactory engine life and performance"..."if the recommended oil is not available, other oil may be used, however, some performance loss may be noticed"

I'm with Huakenny. Different people have different take on this. Ran 4 years FS OCI 10k during my NA years. Stripped the engine to checked the engine component, it's still golden new and coated with lube. Oil pan also clean. My 1st attempt on Mineral lasted short.

Where to buy Delo400 in 18L / 20L packing ?

it written fully syn mobil 1...just i didnt state it out..as that only for my car model... Mobil 1 0w40 (100% Synthetic based)....of coz, this one i dig from my Nissan GTR R35 manual

if 0w40 not available, then Mobil 1 10w40 (100% synthetic based) may be used

that y i said....it all depends on car manufacturer.....this is not a Ferrari or Lambo as u said, but a normal JDM Sports car. it required FS too

as salam,
Car: Proton Saga BLM 2008
MA: 106000++ km

last change EO: December 2011

now clocking more than 16000km with Petro-Canada Duron XL 15w40....last service 89360km...now MA already 106000km++

very satisfied with the performance of the eo....

will send the eo for UOA....
next: Petro-Canada Duron Fully Syn 5w40....

sarjantulang

Ok . Mind to share which model of Torco ? Can I mix Torco with the Liquid Moly Cera Tec ? What does it mean Long-term effect up 50,000KM , does it mean I don't need to change My Engine Oil until 50,000KM or It still can take care my engine although I flush my engine oil out ( during changing oil )?  I am newbie on engine oil , someone help to can guide me ?

Currently I using Shell Helix HX7 10W-40, is it good ?

Mind to tell me any shop in Penang selling Torco and Liqui Moly ?

TR 5 semi syn

and yes i have ceratec and torco together too, no problem. ceratec costs your engine parts and last for 50k km, means you dont have to "reapply" ceratec until the next oil change around 50k km later. and no, you still need to change your engine oil regularly, just that when you change, ceratec still sticks to your engine.

shell helix is by no means bad, however it is a cheaper mainstream oil, so you get what you paid for.

no idea on penang shops

the compound is ceramic based and bears an orange color. opening engine oil cap and looking inside would allow you to see said orange colored liquid/things on the engine. if that isn't convincing enough, im not sure what else is

of course there are some more fact/tech spec based explanation, id just leave it to you to read it from their site or google.

um, it's not glue, how is it supposed to be permanently stuck on your engine if you're going to go purposely scrape it off? it does require re-application every 50k km or so, which should be a good enough indication that it is not permanent.

personally, you spend maybe rm170 for 50k km, take 5k km per oil change and thats 10 oil change and its just rm17 per oil change. difference you can feel in your daily drive, and visible effect (like i said, open up your engine oil cap and look inside) that the material is coating your engine parts (unlike some engine oil claims like *coughcastrolmagnetateccough* ) properly.

i dont mind and i can afford rm17 per oil change. if it didnt work, i consider it a waste of rm170 or rm17/oil change. no big deal. "sadly", it does work and i think i will be sticking to it

yes it can be mixed with any oil

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Added on May 31, 2012, 5:33 pm
Active chemical bonding agent. What about Magnatec?

i see. then what about coatings such as http://www.wpctreatment.com/  ? They get scrapped off too?

for gear oil..can use GL5 oil instead of GL4 oil on 4g13 gearbox?

need a real experience here since many gear oil GL5 claim that can replace or suitable with gearbox with GL4 oil