yup, savvy gearbox only takes in 1 kind of oil. 70w-80 or 75w-80 and it must be less reactive sulfurs found in most GL-5 oils that cause damage. so make sure you get the right oil. Alot of jokers just dump in normal oil after 2 year gearbox condemn then go running around town claiming savvy gearbox stupid and so on. HAHA

Kidmad : a good semi syn oil performs much better and lasts much longer than a regular fully synth oil

Force induction engine is very nice to drive. Lots of torque n power. But must be discipline when comes to oil change.fresh oil is critical upmost important.
If not sludge issue..big problem

read death book, brain no turn!

bro. let said my saga blm manual stated i should use SAE 20W-50 for engine oil so how? my service center use petronas 15w 50. Now i dont service with center. im using 10w 40 magnatec. do you mean i should go back to sae20w 50?

what is your reason?

But if the valve seals and piston rings are doing their job, there won't be much contaminants from the combustion chamber right? Even if there's some, won't that small amount may have been trapped in the oil filter? Just curious.

Makes sense, I like you. What about oils being hydroscopic over time absorbing moisture once it's exposed to extreme heat, and FS oil qualities not breaking down as fast as M or SS?

For Proton BLM/FL/FLX, Proton appears 2b inconsistent in its recommended SAE grades...

For BLMs and pre-Oct(?) 2011 FLs, Proton User Manuals rec 20W50.
Then later in 2011, an amendment sheet was added to FL User Manual changing the SAE grade to 10W30!!

However, most Proton SCs appear 2b using 10W40 during official OCIs...

Now FLXs Manual also rec 10W30. BUT SCs still supplying 10W40?

What is Proton's TRULY OFFICIAL stand/rec on this aspect of maintenance?

Left to "whims & fancies" of SCs? Or mayb even in the hands of Users/Owners?

Anyone, pleez....

if u wann superior protection + healthy engine, regardless of how premium or expensive a fully synthetic cost, highly recommended to change at 7000km interval.

if you're willing to spend, can try out liqui moly or torco. considering your mileage, you could opt for between 3-4 months OCI

not sure if the oil can last over 3 months though. as its mileage OR 3 months, and people who drive their cars daily rarely reach 3 months and change prior that due to mileage reached.

they're hydroscopic.
But I cant find the explanation to cars with 10,000 or 15,000.00 OCI on the service manual

That's where most people do not understand the workings of the engine and then wonder why they can't stretch the oil change intervals. It has nothing to do with the degrading of the engine oil but rather the contamination of the engine oil that shortens the oil change intervals. BMW tried their EURO standard 25k km oil change intervals here and ended with slugging issues and dead engines.

The oil itself will last a very long time if there are no contaminants. For example, gear oil works harder than normal engine oil but last much longer as there are no contaminants being introduced to the system. With every combustion of the engine, blow-bys leak past the piston rings and into the engine. Every stroke of the piston, you are introducing petrol, moisture, acid and carbon into the tiny 4-5L capacity of engine oil. All these contaminants has nowhere to go and resides in the engine oil. The oil filter is only good to remove large particles of contaminants but not things like water and acid.

I change my full syn every 5000km not because the oil is dead but the oil is dirty. Here are some numbers to crunch.. if you drive 5000km at 100km/h, at 3000rpm, it will take you 50 hours to complete. 50 x 60 x 3000 x 2 (each rpm is 2 strokes, up and down) = 18,000,000 strokes. How much junk do you think would have gone past the piston rings after 18 million strokes up and down? That is only 5000km at a constant speed.

Added:  Oh yeah.. I forgot.. that is only for 1 cylinder.. if you have 4 cylinders, multiple that by 4.

anyways, could you also provide an explanation on why some engine oils will degrade/sluggish/bad performance after x k km(eg: 3k km) while some (regardless of mineral, semi or full syn) can last 5k km easily, or even 10k km for the same exact engine? probably also why some "myths" spread from there on how full syn OCI is 10k km, while mineral 5k/semi syn 7k respectively?

as salam,

Extended Drain Interval

the SECRET lie inside the BASE OIL.....whether you using the 75% base oil or the 99.9% Pure Base Oil....

the pure the base oil, the longer the DI....coz the oil tend to hold the oil from degraded and less contamination

sarjantulang

as salam,

Extended Drain Interval

the SECRET lie inside the BASE OIL.....whether you using the 75% base oil or the 99.9% Pure Base Oil....

the pure the base oil, the longer the DI....coz the oil tend to hold the oil from degraded and less contamination

sarjantulang

The base oil plays a part but it is not a quantifiable part. You can't rate the engine oil by the base oil and hence is not used as a rating. This is how fully syn oils are superior against mineral when it comes to protection against the oil breaking down. Similarly some manufacturers use the process of hydro-cracking to improve the base mineral oil, to a point where some even try to be 'Pretend' Synthetics.. no thanks to Castrol for labeling Group III oils as Synthetic..

So the base does play a part.. like an actor in a movie who is not credited at the end.

Like I said, it's non-quantifiable part but it still plays apart. Tiny but still in play. Similar to my case where I destroyed the engine oil in 2000km and turned it to water. That's the base oil giving out. And I repeat myself that most people will not experience what I have gone through. Car and track enthusiast would understand what I'm talking about as most people don't turn oil to water. MOst turn to slug as they have not over worked the oil beyond its design. Some of us have driven our cars hard enough to do that.

With full synthetic, at 5000km it comes out all black due to the contaminants but the integrity of the oil is still there due to the superior full syn base oil. It still feels like oil and looks like oil with suspended dirt. It has not turn sluggy so it hasn't been over-contaminated.

We were testing oils. Wrecked the Castrol Magnatec in 2000km. The engine didn't fail, the oil did. The engine went on for another 60k km before I sold it and it lasted another 40k km with the new owner before the turbine gave out. We just drive a lot harder than most people. We were looking into the effects of using semi-syn and how we can wreck it in turbo engines. At that time when we did the testing, most did not believe that semi-syn only had 5-10 percent actual synthetic to be labled as semi-syn. We were out to prove a point. That was about 12 long years ago.. how time flies..

Kampung theory??

try this:

http://lubricants.petro-canada.ca/resource...02E&language=en
""Petro-Canada’s HT Severe Hydrocracking makes the difference
Conventional processing such as solvent refining can result in a base oil that is 70-85% pure and is pale yellow or amber in colour.

The HT purity process used by Petro-Canada produces crystal-clear, 99.9% pure base oils that clearly outperform traditional solvent-refined materials. Petro-Canada offers a range of PURITY™ base oils that:

Have a high viscosity index (VHVI fluids have a Very High Viscosity Index)
Deliver synthetic product performance at a lower cost
Have low volatility, high thermal and oxidative stability, and excellent low temperature capabilities""
i've test it on my car...already 11,000km and still going...the engine still ok, the EO also smooth and not so blackey...

that's why it is depend on the BASE OIL....the PURE the Base Oil, the higher the Viscosity Index..

and secondly is the ADDITIVE....

sarjantulang