Stock engines are built with tolerances. So if you decide to use something other than the xW30 weight that Myvis are made for, it'll still work. Like 5W40 on a myvi or 20W50. But you'll notice significant strain on the engine or have poor FC or something like that.

But if you want to change to 0W30, 5W30, 10W30, 15W30 (no such oil) those are fine.

If your engine is balanced, built to spec and heavily modified, then the tolerances is probably a whole lot less. Changing to a weight that it wasn't designed for might overstress parts and cause premature wear.

I've been driving with the new ENEOS 5w30 Eco Touring EO and so far my review is:

It's bloody quiet when you are accelerating, and you accelerate much faster. The power is there. FC...heck...in the Kelisa thread, On full tank with my Castrol previously with heavy footing (heavy footing until my engine leaking down under...suspension and absorber also starting to koyak....T____T) at most is 420km/fulltank. Averagely is 380/full tank.

With the ENEOS so far(1K mileage) Im clocking at 420km/full tank after 3 times pump.

thanks for the infos as usual
didn't knew Castrol being bad, however it could be just your engine/turbo characteristic/preference against Castrol.

my F5MBB MT is running on Redline MTL (75w80) + lubegard manual additives.
Loving every bit of the shifting lol

a bit inclined on their regular EO though since they are against API certifications and the reason given is costing
however when it comes to manual trannies redline has received VERY positive feedback especially in the BITOG communities, went with it and no regrets
say, not many lubricant company explored with DCT's yet? as VW/ford has been widely using DCT, i'd reckon it'd be a decent business opportunity before everyone jumps on the bandwagon.

and yea learn something everyday and never expected Ester's fragrance to be one of it when it comes to Engine oil technicalities

what grade are you specifically referring to?

I like Eneos too but can only be found at Jusco/ Aeon stores,

Damansara Utama near the Kedai 1 Malaysia row there got 1 shop sells...I got mine ar RM95. Same price as Castrol 10w40.

01-Aug-2014 06:03:48 Send to UNITED STATES POS MALAYSIA INTERNATIONAL HUB <--- lol my used oil sample still sending

So basically engine oil is putting some weights on the piston which call lubricant?


No grade that I'm able to specified but just wanna understand some people change the grade. What can that effect the engine?

well yes and no.

to put it very layman, imagine yourself (the engine moving parts) swimming in a pool of molasses (heavy viscosity engine oil, such as 10w50 maybe), vs swimming in a pool of water (light viscosity engine oil, such as 0w20)

which do you think you'll swim easier/faster?


for grade, i am assuming you're solely referring to viscosity and not something like mineral/semi synthetic (and whatever crazy terms the Europeans like to call it such as companies from motul/liqui moly)/full synthetic or an engine oil's base stock (group III/IV/V etc)

with that said, the traditional believe is that heavier viscosity (oil film thicker) offers more protection, and going lighter viscosity is a risk.
That may very well be true in *most* application especially with API certification SL/SM and before.

with modern engines/engine oil specification/certification (API SN), one can have the same protection using a very thin viscosity EO, if not possibly better especially comparing say, API SN to API SL EO, or a full synthetic of a API certified/Licensed reputable brand against one with no certification and is all claims.

As a matter of fact, for fuel economy's sake, lighter viscosity EO (engine oil) such as 0w20 is being adopted by many manufacturers since 2008/2009 ish.
Honda is even pushing API/SAE to make 0w16 official to cater for their hybrid/earth dream engine vehicles

The only exception is probably high/extreme boosted turbo charged cars, and most probably one subjected to motor sports activities.
in which the very thin oil film strength may not withstand extreme temperatures the turbo charged engines subjects it to, especially when further pushed towards/beyond the engine's limits. (very common in motor sports)

in such cases, the only way you can determine an EO quality objectively is by doing used oil analysis (which i will cover more once i get my very first report lol)
if you're not into extremes/motorsport, just following your manufacturer's recommendation should be more than sufficient

any review for engine oil brand jetron 10-40w semi synthetic ?

Hmm.. not quite.

The gap between the piston and the cylinder walls are super thin. The thicker the oil the more effort the engine needs to push the oil through the oil channels and all. Some engines are built with very low tolerances. Too thick oil and the engine will seize. Kinda like how F1 engines use single weight oils and are fed intravenously hot into the engine otherwise it's too thick for the engine to start.

The stock Myvi K3VE isn't a low tolerance engine so it'll probably work without issues with 20W50. But why would you want to? Imagine the amount of effort needed to push that thick oil through, you'll experience power loss, sluggish performance and bad FC.

5W30 vs 5W40 isn't that much different in terms of weight. But 5W20 vs 5W40 is quite significant. Aiya, it boils down to your own judgment and wallet size. Can't afford good fully syn oils just buy the Perodua 10W30/5W30 semis. Those are actually quite good for normal cars and are cheaper. But shorten the OCI and that's it.

I've used that Eco Touring oil as well. I didn't like it. It's expensive, the car felt heavy and oddly enough the oil seemed to break down faster than expected (FC started getting bad and revving got really heavy). I'm doing a comparison with Perodua 5W30 silver and Pennzoil 5W30 fully syn.

While on the topic of oils of course, does anyone have a grease or oil they prefer for stuff like seal conditioning, doors, hinges and so on?

I tend to lay down a light layer of Dupont Krytox on most friction points in my vehicles use Krytox oil for unpainted exposed plastic surfaces to form a surface barrier. But most of it is used on the door hinges, links and the rubber seals in the form of Krytox grease.

The upside of this grease is that it is extremely hard to remove, thus it keeps any ruberry parts supple and soft for a freakishly long time.

Interesting, it's called "Dupont Krytox"? Is it an automotive grease?

Beware, there are many recycle oil out there, most of them are rebranded into branded oil. It will harm your engine, i kena already!!!

Hmmm...weird...actually how much was yours and whats the price difference? Cuz i got mine from car spare parts shop, RM95 which is the same as the Castrol Mag 10/40 price. But yeah, the last round I used the Eco EO it broke down a little fast. But still maintained the good pick up and good FC. NowI'm at 300km mileage at only half of my tank....which is RM30. Dunno if my metre rosak or not. Penzoil how? Good?

It's an aerospace lubricant designed for use in extremely high temperatures, vacuums and other harsh conditions like in jet turbines. It is a PTFE based lubricant and generally works well with high performance seals like Kalrez and Viton.

I started using it in my pistols and using a normal lubricant like REMOIL I had to reoil the hangun after every weekly outing, but using Krytox I only needed to do it once every six months. Considering the pressures can reach about 42000 PSI, it stood up pretty well.

So then I thought, why not use this on the car? And the rest is history. You can also use the lighter grades as a leather oil.

personally only went with wd40 or wd40 white lithium spray grease

Im abit confused so basically the lighter the oil is the lighter the weight for the piston to move but cant westand the temperature like turbo cars and etc.... I do on mototrsports previously but i didnt really consider the engine oil until i got a great deal of Torco from my supplier.

Wonder my myvi EO can do a oil analysis though...

By the way, izso... If you say 5W30 vs 5W40 isnt much different what about 10W30 vs 5W30?



What happen ? Maybe you could let us know more infor about it..

Brand : JTX1000 GOLD

Model :10w-40 Tribiology
Price :RM185 for 10k millage

FEEDBACK : its proven!! Engine smooth !! Fuel save!! More pickup !! Speechless hmm

This post has been edited by renew01: Aug 5 2014, 10:25 AM