no idea on pakelo.
Torco's sr1 (and above) line up are awesome. anything below, i find them leaving more to be desired.

then again if you're on a new car, shouldn't you be going back to SC and using their EO?

no issue if you use their full synthetics.
for perodua i believe it's petronas (API SN certified btw). only problem is pricing.

residue, not recedue btw

residue.

and no, EO don't produce carbon residues, your engine does.
the difference in EO is how their additive/properties can sustain/neutralize the acidity the carbon that gets suspended in your EO.

residue.

and no, EO don't produce carbon residues, your engine does.
the difference in EO is how their additive/properties can sustain/neutralize the acidity the carbon that gets suspended in your EO.

Stock engines are built with tolerances. So if you decide to use something other than the xW30 weight that Myvis are made for, it'll still work. Like 5W40 on a myvi or 20W50. But you'll notice significant strain on the engine or have poor FC or something like that.

But if you want to change to 0W30, 5W30, 10W30, 15W30 (no such oil) those are fine.

If your engine is balanced, built to spec and heavily modified, then the tolerances is probably a whole lot less. Changing to a weight that it wasn't designed for might overstress parts and cause premature wear.

what grade are you specifically referring to?

well yes and no.

to put it very layman, imagine yourself (the engine moving parts) swimming in a pool of molasses (heavy viscosity engine oil, such as 10w50 maybe), vs swimming in a pool of water (light viscosity engine oil, such as 0w20)

which do you think you'll swim easier/faster?
for grade, i am assuming you're solely referring to viscosity and not something like mineral/semi synthetic (and whatever crazy terms the Europeans like to call it such as companies from motul/liqui moly)/full synthetic or an engine oil's base stock (group III/IV/V etc)

with that said, the traditional believe is that heavier viscosity (oil film thicker) offers more protection, and going lighter viscosity is a risk.
That may very well be true in *most* application especially with API certification SL/SM and before.

with modern engines/engine oil specification/certification (API SN), one can have the same protection using a very thin viscosity EO, if not possibly better especially comparing say, API SN to API SL EO, or a full synthetic of a API certified/Licensed reputable brand against one with no certification and is all claims.

As a matter of fact, for fuel economy's sake, lighter viscosity EO (engine oil) such as 0w20 is being adopted by many manufacturers since 2008/2009 ish.
Honda is even pushing API/SAE to make 0w16 official to cater for their hybrid/earth dream engine vehicles

The only exception is probably high/extreme boosted turbo charged cars, and most probably one subjected to motor sports activities.
in which the very thin oil film strength may not withstand extreme temperatures the turbo charged engines subjects it to, especially when further pushed towards/beyond the engine's limits. (very common in motor sports)

in such cases, the only way you can determine an EO quality objectively is by doing used oil analysis (which i will cover more once i get my very first report lol)
if you're not into extremes/motorsport, just following your manufacturer's recommendation should be more than sufficient

Hmm.. not quite.

The gap between the piston and the cylinder walls are super thin. The thicker the oil the more effort the engine needs to push the oil through the oil channels and all. Some engines are built with very low tolerances. Too thick oil and the engine will seize. Kinda like how F1 engines use single weight oils and are fed intravenously hot into the engine otherwise it's too thick for the engine to start.

The stock Myvi K3VE isn't a low tolerance engine so it'll probably work without issues with 20W50. But why would you want to? Imagine the amount of effort needed to push that thick oil through, you'll experience power loss, sluggish performance and bad FC.

5W30 vs 5W40 isn't that much different in terms of weight. But 5W20 vs 5W40 is quite significant. Aiya, it boils down to your own judgment and wallet size. Can't afford good fully syn oils just buy the Perodua 10W30/5W30 semis. Those are actually quite good for normal cars and are cheaper. But shorten the OCI and that's it.

Beware, there are many recycle oil out there, most of them are rebranded into branded oil. It will harm your engine, i kena already!!!