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 The suiting thread v2

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silencer
post Aug 11 2010, 01:21 AM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Aug 11 2010, 01:04 AM)
I'll have a dinner coming in a month time and it is a formal dinner. When I'm testing out the "sitting tests" while on a suit at Padini, my friend told me that it is not necessary, as one have to take off their suit when eating.

Is this true? hmm.gif

Very new to suiting here.
Need to know some of the do's and don'ts about suiting for dinner...
*
Wronggggggg..as i wear suit all of the times for dining appointment with my clients....u would only take off your overcoat...which normally happened if u r in oversea during cold season...
V12Kompressor
post Aug 11 2010, 12:21 PM

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QUOTE(silencer @ Aug 11 2010, 01:21 AM)
Wronggggggg..as i wear suit all of the times for dining appointment with my clients....u would only take off your overcoat...which normally happened if u r in oversea during cold season...
*
Thank you for the clarification.

I'm quite surprised to hear that too when my friend told that to me.
bloke1
post Aug 11 2010, 01:58 PM

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Kakmj has terrible taste in clothes.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Aug 11 2010, 02:07 PM
kotmj
post Aug 11 2010, 02:20 PM

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You seem to have developed a fetish for my feet. You want to lick and suck on them, hmm?
bloke1
post Aug 11 2010, 02:43 PM

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Just showing off the long lost art of rolled up pants. You should be proud.
MeToo
post Aug 11 2010, 04:32 PM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ Aug 11 2010, 02:43 PM)
Just showing off the long lost art of rolled up pants. You should be proud.
*
The left side seems to be longer by 1/2 a roll..
kotmj
post Aug 14 2010, 08:18 PM

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I chanced upon a tailoring shop today. It's just a half shop, but it's in an upscale part of KL. I walk past many tailoring shops whenever I go shopping and such, but never bother to go in because most have awful display suits. It's not worth the time. Also, these shops have clueless proprietors. Their stupidity irk me too much. I once showed such a "tailor" GDT's suit jacket, and he had no idea how to determine if it was fully canvassed. Worse, he insisted the buttonholes were machine-made.

But this shop is special. One of the display suits was a plain cream with a dark windowpane over it. There was Shape, sleeves were graceful, lapels too. All very nice. Very obviously above average. The tailor was digging his nose. I stepped in.

Some banter. He asked me who made me my shirt. I told him.

"Oh, Loke Something Something is it? Is he still alive?"

I said, "No, mine is a different Loke. Here's his card."

"Ah this is the son. I dunno if the father is dead or not. His father is the one who makes horse trousers. My father and his father were friends. His father is famous, I saw him once when I was small. But I think the son is in semi-retirement."

I said, "He's very busy of late."

Talked about fully-canvassed stuff, he said nobody ever asked for one. He said you got them to avoid bubbling in the fusing. I said modern fusings never bubble. He said they did, even Sparkmanshop's did. I asked him if he sent his suits to Wardrobe to be made up. He denied any association with Wardrobe.

"Are you a tailor?" he asked.

More banter.

"Come by someday, I'll make you something. I'll make it nice."

Heh, he has no idea what torture it is to be my tailor.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Aug 14 2010, 11:07 PM
malutapimau
post Aug 14 2010, 09:08 PM

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is this shop on 1st floor?
kotmj
post Aug 14 2010, 10:57 PM

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no, ground floor.
beau
post Aug 15 2010, 02:35 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Aug 14 2010, 08:18 PM)
I chanced upon a tailoring shop today. It's just a half shop, but it's in an upscale part of KL. I walk past many tailoring shops whenever I go shopping and such, but never bother to go in because most have awful display suits. It's not worth the time. Also, these shops have clueless proprietors. Their stupidity irk me too much. I once showed such a "tailor" GDT's suit jacket, and he had no idea how to determine if it was fully canvassed. Worse, he insisted the buttonholes were machine-made.

But this shop is special. One of the display suits was a plain cream with a dark windowpane over it. There was Shape, sleeves were graceful, lapels too. All very nice. Very obviously above average. The tailor was digging his nose. I stepped in.

Some banter. He asked me who made me my shirt. I told him.

"Oh, Loke Something Something is it? Is he still alive?"

I said, "No, mine is a different Loke. Here's his card."

"Ah this is the son. I dunno if the father is dead or not. His father is the one who makes horse trousers. My father and his father were friends. His father is famous, I saw him once when I was small. But I think the son is in semi-retirement."

I said, "He's very busy of late."

Talked about fully-canvassed stuff, he said nobody ever asked for one. He said you got them to avoid bubbling in the fusing. I said modern fusings never bubble. He said they did, even Sparkmanshop's did. I asked him if he sent his suits to Wardrobe to be made up. He denied any association with Wardrobe.

"Are you a tailor?" he asked.

More banter.

"Come by someday, I'll make you something. I'll make it nice."

Heh, he has no idea what torture it is to be my tailor.
*
Did you examine the product in the display window as well as other items in the shop?

I recently accompanied a friend to a tailor & was not very impressed with the work product in the shop. There was , however a stunning houndstooth jacket with generously roll well cut lapels and Milanese styled raised working button holes on the cuffs. Upon closer examination the jacket was not made by the tailor himself but an OTR Zegna "Napoli Couture" jacket ( The fore runner of the range topping Zegna Couture line )

Similarly I was at HST to pick up some trimmings ( & 5.1 mm buttons ) for a friend recently when I chanced upon a fully canvassed suit with beautiful finishing & raised button holes similar to one above.

After further discussion it was revealed that the in-house tailor in HST took the initial measurements but most of the work & finishing was done at the client's behest by someone in Italy!! (at very substantial costs !!)

Would appreciate if you could PM me with the name of this new find if it proves convenient to do so.



kotmj
post Aug 15 2010, 05:09 PM

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No single tailor here does anything that deserves the term impressive. The reason is that Malaysian suit customers are highly unsophisticated.

I picked apart a Taiwanese vintage bespoke blazer a few weeks back, and while fully canvassed, the shortcuts taken were awe-inducing. You'd think the Taiwanese would be more sophisticated suit wearers, they having the tradition and the weather for it, but the hymo used was stiff, there was no volume padding in the chest (so it looks flat in the chest, the way Koreans like theirs), and the darts in the canvas were awful machine zigzag stitches. The was no edge tape anywhere. No domette. The only handwork was the lapel pad stitching, done coarsely.

The fabric was a synthetic/wool mix, and the lining ... the worse shit in the universe. I soaked it in water and the dark purple lining started to bleed and the water turned red. Dark red. I initially thought it was due to blood stains.

Really great suits are only made in small pockets of the globe.
bloke1
post Aug 15 2010, 05:55 PM

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How do you say bubbling in canto? Hei pork??
kotmj
post Aug 16 2010, 07:35 PM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ Aug 15 2010, 05:55 PM)
How do you say bubbling in canto? Hei pork??
*
You're the Chinaman, you tell me.

In other news, I wonder if I should bid on this in anticipation of my FC DB.

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malutapimau
post Aug 16 2010, 09:09 PM

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go for it!
beau
post Aug 16 2010, 09:10 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Aug 15 2010, 05:09 PM)
No single tailor here does anything that deserves the term impressive. The reason is that Malaysian suit customers are highly unsophisticated.

I picked apart a Taiwanese vintage bespoke blazer a few weeks back, and while fully canvassed, the shortcuts taken were awe-inducing. You'd think the Taiwanese would be more sophisticated suit wearers, they having the tradition and the weather for it, but the hymo used was stiff, there was no volume padding in the chest (so it looks flat in the chest, the way Koreans like theirs), and the darts in the canvas were awful machine zigzag stitches. The was no edge tape anywhere. No domette. The only handwork was the lapel pad stitching, done coarsely.

The fabric was a synthetic/wool mix, and the lining ... the worse shit in the universe. I soaked it in water and the dark purple lining started to bleed and the water turned red. Dark red. I initially thought it was due to blood stains.

Really great suits are only made in small pockets of the globe.
*
It was the lack of integrity that bothered me in the case of the Malaysian Tailor. The fine sample in the window displayed probably lured potential customers in. He wasn't happy when I insisted on seeing the window display as the display sample seem to be much better than the other WIP ( work in progress ) in the shop.

In HST's case, they were sufficiently forthright to explain that they were not able to make the jacket to that specification but send it to Italy for canvassing & finishing.

I laugh everytime I hear some local tailor who lay claims to make for some famous personality in show business or politics. Why would I want to make a suit in a shop where some titled gentlemen with little taste uses your service. I would not be posting pictures of these individuals on "The Satorialist" anytime soon!!

Bespoke costs are not cheap in Japan, Korea or Taiwan. The Japanese I know seem to prefer the Row or Italy for their tailored efforts , not surprising, given the similar costs whereas the Koreans & Taiwanese tend to gravitate towards the US. The younger & more sophisticated set from these 3 nations are more inclined towards Italian these days.
attacusatlas
post Aug 16 2010, 10:27 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Aug 16 2010, 07:35 PM)
You're the Chinaman, you tell me.

In other news, I wonder if I should bid on this in anticipation of my FC DB.

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*
impressive! my concern is how would you hang it? there is no hook.
kotmj
post Aug 16 2010, 10:28 PM

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The best made in Malaysia jacket (contemporary, not vintage) I've seen was a display suit of a pathetic little tailor in Campbell Complex. I believe it is better made than any ALT stuff. It is fused, of course, but it was very structured and beautiful. Just beautiful. To die for, really. I spent an afternoon looking at many dozen suits in many shops, and this one suit stood out amongst them. But the shop was a hole-in-the-wall and the proprietor was unkept, had a wispy little mustache, wore a worn T-shirt and shorts and sandals. The carpet was threadbare, the cutting board was melamine laminate with large pieces broken off.

I asked to see that display suit, and he gladly handed it to me.

"But this isn't from your shop, is it? The label says it isn't," I remarked.

"No, it isn't mine. A tailor friend of mine loaned it to me to see if I can sell it. He says he rarely wears it."

I noted down the label, and I looked up the shop many times in the internet. They are supposed to have 2 branches, but one was in a shopping mall that crumbled upon itself and the other somewhere else. I called the numbers given but both lines were no longer active. Sigh.


Added on August 16, 2010, 10:30 pm
QUOTE(attacusatlas @ Aug 16 2010, 10:27 PM)
impressive! my concern is how would you hang it? there is no hook.
*
I have Daiso hooks at home.


Added on August 16, 2010, 10:48 pmOh yeah: First fitting of FC DB is tomorrow evening.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Aug 16 2010, 10:48 PM
silencer
post Aug 16 2010, 10:54 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Aug 16 2010, 10:28 PM)
The best made in Malaysia jacket (contemporary, not vintage) I've seen was a display suit of a pathetic little tailor in Campbell Complex. I believe it is better made than any ALT stuff. It is fused, of course, Oh yeah: First fitting of FC DB is tomorrow evening.
*
the copycat of your DB suit will be followed soon.....
kotmj
post Aug 16 2010, 11:02 PM

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Dun worry, the other DBs will not approach the sublimity of mine. Trust me. A DB is difficult to get juuuust right....
attacusatlas
post Aug 16 2010, 11:21 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Aug 16 2010, 10:28 PM)



I have Daiso hooks at home.

pardon my ignorance, you meant you would need another hook to go through the circle to hang your suit?

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