Long, long time ago (maybe 2 years) when they were clearing the stock online. Only black is left unfortunately.

Something is wrong with the back. Either the back balance is too long, or it is too short. I think it might be the latter.



There is also a horizontal ripple in the upper back under the collar. It's a common problem and can be made to go away.

I think the length is perfect. A DB is supposed to be shorter than a SB anyway.

Is there canvassing in there already?

You have a good eye. Jacket is a bit tight over the upper shoulders, as my shoulder blades are very prominent and stick out a lot - they have already noted this adjustment though.

I may add a wee bit in length, maybe 1/2". There is canvas already.

I think back balance is a bit short, also my right shoulder has a drop not fully accommodated for, which is causing some diagonal ripples.

Also thinking of taming the lapels a wee bit - a little narrower and pointing lower.

Good points you raised though, thank you!

Too bad it's no longer available. Had some made into a light suit which lasted me 10 years before showing any signs of wear.

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Added on August 5, 2010, 5:16 pmSpeak to my friend to lend you the Blue Mohair Brioni DB that was altered at Iris. Brioni has put sufficient structure into the lapels to allow the peaks to hold up without any thread attachment ( which is common in most DB jackets ). Not sure if Iris can replicate the same structure with your jacket.

This post has been edited by beau: Aug 5 2010, 05:16 PM

Yup, excellent cloth with great performance and drape. A real pity it's been discontinued..

Thanks for that, but it would be a bit strange to approach a relative stranger for his Brioni jacket! Also, I imagine the canvas weight will need to be heavy to achieve that structure.. I like my stuff lightly canvassed and would not in hell go for heavier. Those few threads aren't a deal breaker to me anyway, so no biggie there.

Don't think it's a real issue with him . Iris Tailor should be able to contact him. The beauty of the Brioni suit is how lightly canvassed the lapel is. I've rarely seen a well structured peak lapel that didn't required support or heavy canvassing.Besides he is due to drop in to collect his alterations & to commission the unstructured jacket borrowed from me.

My friend informs me that there was a customer there who bought in his A & S DB to be used as a template for a summer jacket. That would also be a possible sample if Iris kept the patterns. Based on your built , an Italian styled silhouette would probably suit you better. A & & tends to favor the corpulent.

Have you considered trying a slightly extended shoulder? I can see your deltoids. Probably 1/4inch more.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Aug 7 2010, 05:34 PM

Yeah, looks like wider shoulders would be good. Even 1/8th of an inch would be good.

1/4" sounds about right. Thanks chaps.

Absolute beauties. Shall be staring at them at work to decipher their secrets.

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Added on August 8, 2010, 10:52 pmquite nice these. they have no drape. it is drape that gives the old man look to dbs.





This post has been edited by kotmj: Aug 8 2010, 10:52 PM

Where's this place?

I don't know. They are not my pics.

i'm looking to make a double breasted suit just like that. I think i'm going to do it at Richards. The finishing might be poor but the grey suit he made for me fits me very well. people came up to me saying i have a sexy back!

Huh, nobody told me I have a sexy back yet with my suits.

I know. I don't even know backs can be sexy??

I can have it illustrated for you how backs can be sexy, but I would rather not do any harm to my reputation as a (straight) upright person.

no, go ahead. in the name of fashion enlightenment

I want an unstructured, navy linen 6x2 dee bee jacket with white MOP buttons, patch pockets.

^^I'm not stopping you.

Today is a historic day for this country. The first documented fully-canvassed suit has been spoken for. As another first, trousers will be fishtail back, cut specifically for braces with a high rise.

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Added on August 10, 2010, 11:02 pmOn second thought, I wouldn't go with navy linen. I saw one on a mat salleh at a concert, and it looks shabby.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Aug 10 2010, 11:02 PM

I'll have a dinner coming in a month time and it is a formal dinner. When I'm testing out the "sitting tests" while on a suit at Padini, my friend told me that it is not necessary, as one have to take off their suit when eating.

Is this true?

Very new to suiting here.
Need to know some of the do's and don'ts about suiting for dinner...

This post has been edited by V12Kompressor: Aug 11 2010, 01:06 AM