You might want to ask him if the cloth is 2X2 ply.

He said "very pale grey" whereas the pics you posted are of light grey suits.

X Men: First Class has excellent costuming. Great outfits, though the fits on the jackets are decidedly Hollywood.

Great movie too.

I see you all like goddamn cham trying to find fabrics to buy. If you get fed up with trawling ebay you can buy from here

http://www.huddersfieldcloth.com/

More expensive, obviously, but the swatches can be seen at Bespoked 1U and at ALT.

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Added on June 5, 2011, 8:24 pmAnd dudes, please stop PMing me for recommendations for good tailors in KL. Read my sticky!!! I do not reply to such PMs.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jun 5 2011, 08:24 PM

Going to MBT in a few minutes to commission a shirt and pair of trews.

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Added on June 6, 2011, 6:49 pmA forum fan cheong has discovered MBT. He may not know that it is MBT he is using; but the customer is certainly someone who reads this very thread.

MBT was not too impressed with the fit of Zegna No. 1. There are three things that he will do differently.

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Added on June 6, 2011, 7:09 pmI went to a dry cleaner that was recommended to me by 2 old tailors. The interior was quite classy; not as ridiculously boutique-like the way Jeeve's in Bangsar is, but very classy nonetheless. The Chinese lady at the counter was professional like fcuk, I've never experienced customer service like this except in parts of Europe. The shop has been in operation since 1910. (Right now a dozen forum fan cheongs are (finally) registering for an account with lowyat in order to reveal the identity of this dry cleaner.)

RM22 for a jacket, RM13 for trousers.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jun 6 2011, 07:10 PM

I know from the requests he made of MBT for his suit. Taken straight out of my previous sticky.

The company is having an etc. etc. where our etc. etc. from around the region are invited. The etc. etc., too, from another city will be flying in. I think the food and the booze will be quite good.

I spent 2 hours today trying to assemble an outfit. Started off with my Uniqlo navy linen jacket and sharkskin grey trousers. Didn't work. Changed trousers to light grey mohair. Didn't work. I think I understand now what PG said about his not being able to wear odd jackets. Odd jackets optically truncate the body in half making short guys like me look even shorter.

So I put on FCDB and I think it works.


This post has been edited by kotmj: Jun 13 2011, 11:58 AM

It's a "gala" dinner that will take place soon. I am already revealing too much leh!

A tweed jacket? Seriously?

is that tweed jacket fused or did you forget to check?

Everyone makes a clean front.

A very passable suit, but Mr Kwong needs a lot of coaching to rise up to the standard set by Iris Tailor in Singapore. His problem, like that of so many other tailors, is that he has always drafted a certain way and over the decades lost much of the mental dexterity required to make a different sort of cut work.

If you ask for waist supression, most tailors think 1/4 inch less at the rear side body seam. Then you go in for the first fitting and you see a sack and you yell "More!" He then takes out another 1/4". By now that seam has become overworked.

The proper way to do it is to make 3/4" to 1" front darts (instead of the universal 1/2") , take out an extra 1/4 at the front side body seam then take out 1/4" at the rear side body seam. That way, the suppression results in more convexity for the chest while being uniformly distributed.

But this requires thinking, and unfortunately drafting has become so reflexive for these people that it has become mechanical. The lines draw themselves, bypassing the part of the brain responsible for effortful thought.

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Added on June 18, 2011, 12:52 amthe sleeves also need a lot of work. the shoulder slope/neck point is not optimal.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jun 18 2011, 12:52 AM

I had the most surreal experience today. Really. Most of the time my life is damned boring. Then sometimes, I discover something unexpected. Like today.

I have been going to MBT because the guy came across as something special. There are hundreds of tailors in KL, why use him for shirts and trousers? Why have I been following him? Why not try out Mr Kwong?

So I was sipping tea he brewed for me while we chatted about life when a customer walked in. A retired major (Intelligence), Indian, at least 150 kg. About as far from proportionate as you can be.

He was there to try on a sports jacket.

It was a train wreck. Totally did not fit. But MBT was cool. He nipped here, inserted pins there, ripped the shoulder seam and repinned it, redrew the armhole, etc. It was the most thorough and methodical fitting session I have ever witnessed. Took off the collar, repinned the neckhole. Ripped out the sleeve.

20 minutes and about 2 dozen pins later, I beheld a basted jacket with nary a ripple.

I have finally met a masterful fitter in Malaysia.

I told the Major, "MBT is the best fitter I've seen in Malaysia." MBT said, "Oh, hahaha, thank you."

He also managed to refine my trouser fit. Here is what I picked up today, a Loro Piana based on Zegna No. 1's cut (ALT+kotmj) then improved upon by MBT.

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Added on June 19, 2011, 12:18 amForgot to mention I also picked this up today...


This post has been edited by kotmj: Jun 19 2011, 12:18 AM

btw this is what AL made for the capitalist... not perfect, but notice the clean sleeves and clean back... this is what KFW should deliver as a minimum...

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Added on June 19, 2011, 2:12 amthe rear side body seam is not oversuppresed... this is key

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jun 19 2011, 02:12 AM

The skirting bugs me too.

MBT for kotmj...

Seems to be a good fit for a bundle find without alterations

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Added on June 19, 2011, 11:20 pm

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jun 19 2011, 11:20 PM

andrew is all set for the next ice age

All jackets are structured. ALL. All have padding and canvassing.

Back from left: Tailor's ham for pressing the chest area, pressing mitt for sleeves and shoulders, French collar linen, Gütermann polyester thread, lifetime supply of Agremann gimp, several lifetimes supply of Tera 180 (10,000m, enough for 120 bespoke shirts), 6 pairs cotton shoulder pads (softer than poly pads), pine press buck

Front from bottom: Moleskin press buck cover, poly flannel press buck lining, cotton press buck lining. In packet: Cotton flannel, cotton silesia, wool undercollar melton, light wool canvas.

Went to ALT today. I thought that by now The Capitalist would be happily using Edward Sexton for his Beetle suit, but look what I saw...



Yet another DB of his. I remember he used to harbour much doubt about the DB. He wouldn't even consider it. Said he wore it as a school uniform, never again, hate it, makes him look even shorter, so old fashioned, etc.

Until I went and got myself a DB. Then he did too. Now it's all he ever commsissions.

I have some good news for you people. I gave 10 meters of gimp to AL. If you want your buttonholes to have greater plasticity, ask him to use the gimp I gave him. However, I explicitly told him only those customers who give the secret handshake will be entitled to it. The handshake is thus: you make 10X a fapping motion with your right hand near your crotch.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jun 24 2011, 09:59 PM

In the test jacket I'm making, changing the shape of the lapels and the quarters at this stage would cause me to cry. I'd have to remove the 2 lines of hand felling on the front edge tape, remove lots of hand padding on the lapel, re-pad portions of the lapel, replace the tape, refell the tape. Not to mention removing the facing. Major surgery.

I don't know how Mr Kwong deals with that.