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 Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, v3

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General_Nic
post Sep 29 2012, 01:41 PM

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QUOTE(TheGreatBahamut @ Sep 29 2012, 11:13 AM)
This question maybe ask before but I have to ask again,
I painted my kit with lacquer paint and I want to panel line with Gundam/Tamiya Gold Marker. What shall I use to clean the excessive panel line without removing the lacquer base paint?
If you guys have any other way to panel line over lacquer painted kit may share here too...
*
u can use Gundam Marker Remover
user posted image
General_Nic
post Oct 3 2012, 01:26 AM

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QUOTE(Khai62 @ Oct 2 2012, 03:34 PM)
Just to add you go with out use primer since most paint stick to plastic solidly just that you need primer if you want to do shading or if you want to paint over a dark color part with light color.
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not sure with airbrushed paints since I havent started trying, but acrylic paint from spraycans can be easily removed from plastic with just fingernails sweat.gif

QUOTE(alexwyl @ Oct 2 2012, 11:54 PM)
hmm, any sifu can teach/ correct me?
i wanted to do undercoat with decorative silver but why my kit will become lik this?
it is normal?
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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the top pic u're showing is still just decorative silver or you painted a layer of candy paint?
General_Nic
post Oct 3 2012, 02:02 AM

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QUOTE(alexwyl @ Oct 3 2012, 01:41 AM)
just decorative silver  ohmy.gif
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then that's just how decorative silver looks like
if you want similar with the red one, you need to add another layer of different type of silver
General_Nic
post Oct 3 2012, 03:46 AM

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QUOTE(TT lim @ Oct 3 2012, 03:08 AM)
this will dissolve your lacquer paint too, even when u use gundam marker on lacquer paint,it will dissolve your lacquer paint too,
for gold and silver u can try Artline 990xf series metallic color marker,it have few diff size tips,and it is enamel base,it won't dissolve your lacquer paint and can be wipe off with Tamiya enamel thinner.
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I'm pretty sure Gundam Markers' paint are acrylic, sorry if I'm wrong(with exception GM01 & GM02)
if it's acrylic then i wouldn't affect lacquer paint as lacquer is stronger

as for Artline gold & silver markers, cheaper alternative is to use WD40 No Mess Pen icon_rolleyes.gif

This post has been edited by General_Nic: Oct 3 2012, 03:47 AM
General_Nic
post Oct 3 2012, 03:48 AM

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QUOTE(TheGreatBahamut @ Sep 29 2012, 11:13 AM)
This question maybe ask before but I have to ask again,
I painted my kit with lacquer paint and I want to panel line with Gundam/Tamiya Gold Marker. What shall I use to clean the excessive panel line without removing the lacquer base paint?
If you guys have any other way to panel line over lacquer painted kit may share here too...
*
another way if you want to panel line with different colour ink(other than gold & silver), you can use Real Touch Markers
General_Nic
post Oct 3 2012, 12:42 PM

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QUOTE(TT lim @ Oct 3 2012, 04:00 AM)
paint ( Gaianote GP02 ) Remove by GM300 Gundam Marker

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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it can remove lacquer paint i see hmm.gif
but it doesn't mean Gundam Markers' paint are lacquers, it means the Remover works the same as Paint Remover, removes all paint

QUOTE(shauno @ Oct 3 2012, 11:54 AM)
that's cos acrylic has quite weak bonding with the plastic surface. surfacer will help adherence better. generally tho, lacquer paint stick pretty well to plastic, even if it is not primed.
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even with primer acrylics is still less scratch resistant to lacquer sad.gif
that's why I still prefer lacquer, but for spraycans, lacquers have limited colour choices sad.gif
General_Nic
post Oct 3 2012, 01:01 PM

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QUOTE(Zephro @ Oct 3 2012, 12:44 PM)
Hello sifus. Want to ask something.
What are your methods for really fine panel lining?
Like, even more fine than your standard Gundam Panel Liner pen (which I'm currently using now). Can't seem to reproduce really thin lines on my models.
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I uses Real Touch Markers, but if want the finest panel line use the panel wash technique

here's a tutorial video showing the 3 main ways to fill panel lines


This post has been edited by General_Nic: Oct 3 2012, 01:01 PM
General_Nic
post Oct 3 2012, 04:42 PM

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you over sprayed
you are not suppose to spray 1 shot thick layer, must spray 2 or more thin layers, with allocation of at least 15mins drying time in between layers
General_Nic
post Oct 15 2012, 08:36 PM

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QUOTE(alexwyl @ Oct 15 2012, 12:17 AM)
anyone know where can i buy Pledge wipe and shine? as an alternative of glossy top coat,
and I heard that Krylon Matte Finish is one alternative of top coat flat,hmm..i am wondering is there any others Can Spray alternative?
and how about the quality? which one is the best?
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You can try finding Pledge in hardware stores, especially big ones like Ace, or home cleaning solutions places
Krylon Matte Finish is not an alternative, it IS a flat topcoat biggrin.gif
other spray can brands do have flat topcoat, however they are rare. Heck, even Krylon is rare

QUOTE(steph13 @ Oct 15 2012, 05:56 PM)
i know where to get anchor. how about krylon?
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Krylon are available plenty in Ace Hardware store smile.gif
General_Nic
post Oct 16 2012, 11:17 AM

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QUOTE(steph13 @ Oct 16 2012, 01:42 AM)
ok. thx for the reply. anyway how about yhis brand call pylox?
*
Ace Hardware too smile.gif
General_Nic
post Oct 22 2012, 12:31 PM

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is using Mr. Surfacer enough, or need Mr. Primer Surfacer for priming purpose?
General_Nic
post Nov 23 2012, 12:38 AM

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I just bought Gaianotes Clear & Flat Base, since the Flat Clear was out of stock
any advice or suggestion on what ratio of Flat Base to Clear to use?
General_Nic
post Nov 25 2012, 12:03 AM

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QUOTE(Frisz @ Nov 24 2012, 11:59 PM)
Can someone me what the different between normal thinner with enamel thinner? And what will happen if I color the gundam using normal thinner.
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u mean normal hardware stores thinner?
those will dissolve any paints man, even industrial paint, and even melt the plastic
General_Nic
post Nov 25 2012, 06:10 PM

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QUOTE(Frisz @ Nov 25 2012, 05:56 PM)
What will happen if I mix normal thinner with my gaia color and then apply to the gundam?
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technically you are diluting the normal thinner with hobby thinner, but I have totally no idea what will happen, nor do I want to risk it
but you can experiment on empty runners
General_Nic
post Dec 13 2012, 01:19 PM

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QUOTE(Khai62 @ Dec 13 2012, 12:07 PM)
I use a flat plastic ice cream spoon and wet fingers.
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which type of putty were you using?
I used platic spoon on Tamiya white putty and the spoon is like partially melted ._.
General_Nic
post Dec 13 2012, 04:32 PM

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QUOTE(nazrul90 @ Dec 13 2012, 04:29 PM)
wet finger? isnt that dangerous?
i try that with my hand

and it hurts my finger like plastic cement
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for epoxy putty using hands is fine i think hmm.gif
General_Nic
post Dec 15 2012, 04:27 PM

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QUOTE(naruko85 @ Dec 15 2012, 01:59 PM)
Hi, I am new here and i would like to know a few things:

1. What is the different between the effect of top coat & compound? I heard that compound will polish the parts, but will the effect wear off?

2. Can top coat or compound remove nub/nip marks after sanding?

3. How to restore transparency of clear parts after sanding or how to remove nub/nip marks on metallic parts?

4. Anyone got pictures of applying top coat of flat, semi - gloss & gloss on gunpla?

thanks in advanced
*
Firstly, you need to know that topcoat & compound are totally 2 different things.
topcoat is clear colourless paint to cover and protect anything beneath it.
compound is for polishing, basically an extremely fine sandpaper, to make the surface you are polishing to be very shiny.

topcoat can't remove nub marks, since it's only a layer of clear paint over it, you still can see it.
as for compound, you need to use file, then fine sandpaper, lastly only compound, in this order, then you will get a smooth finish.

I never sanded clear parts before so I can't be sure, but I do think that with compound polishing it's possible
for metallic parts, you clean the nub marks as usual, but NO sanding. Then you touch up using metallic colour markers or paints.

You can sample photos in this thread
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/488910
General_Nic
post Dec 15 2012, 07:47 PM

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QUOTE(Lester1987 @ Dec 15 2012, 06:44 PM)
i got a question about paint. Why all you guys talk about painting using air brush...
the air brush is expensive, if we buy the spray type paint to do the spraying, we can't get the same effect??
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here are some advantages of airbrush over spraycans:
- in the long term, airbrush is cheaper, because only the airbrush & compressor are expensive, but you only buy once.
- bottled paints are cheaper and can last longer than spraycans, because you are mixing with thinner and other paints
- spraycans only come in fixed colours, while with airbrush, using bottled paints allows you to mix colours to your choice.
- with airbrush, you have more control over the spray diameter, hence can control how you spray the parts, and way less of paint wastage, saving you paint, that's killing 2 birds with 1 stone
- with airbrush you can apply shading technique, one that is impossible to do with spraycans
General_Nic
post Dec 15 2012, 08:58 PM

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QUOTE(naruko85 @ Dec 15 2012, 08:11 PM)
But flat top coat can cover the scratches right?
for example this : http://www.hobbyhovel.com/2010/08/tips-and...ted-models.html
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yes flat topcoat can, but only fine scratches like the example shown, but not deep scratches of course
General_Nic
post Dec 15 2012, 11:24 PM

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QUOTE(naruko85 @ Dec 15 2012, 11:18 PM)
For painting, I would like to straight spray paints on the runners since I am very bad with hand painting and cannot afford a airbrush + compressor. But only if I painted the runners 1st, after i remove the parts, will sure git nip/nub marks left over... I cant sand it either because it will spoil the painting before... So anyone got any ideas?

And how efficient is it to paint with markers

thanks
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you can still spray paint part by part, it's like airbrush except that you are using spraycans smile.gif
use these to hold the parts when spraying them
user posted image

then poke them into a foam to let the paint dry

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