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 Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, v3

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General_Nic
post Dec 16 2012, 01:42 AM

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QUOTE(Lester1987 @ Dec 16 2012, 12:16 AM)
where to buy these items? and how do you guys normally spray? put the item in the box and spray??
Won't the paint kena other part of the house if we don't have a nice compartment to spray the things?
Any recomended place to get the tools to spray? i mean complete set.
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find mooncake81 or tytroum, they do sell this in set.
otherwise buy the alligator clips or book clips and satay stick separately then make yourself.

as for where to spray, you have few options:
- get a painting booth. Expensive but effective and safe.
- build your own painting booth. Get a large box, cut a hole at the back, then put a PC fan or similar small fan for outward suction. Cheaper than buying a painting booth, but you need to work on it.
- spray outdoors. Easiest solution, but might be harmful, and make sure to spray following the direction of the wind or the wind will blow the paint towards you

QUOTE(naruko85 @ Dec 16 2012, 12:29 AM)
but then it will be very time consuming.. + i am not sure i am patient enough for this.

So markers?
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No, painting with markers actually consume more time, as markers' paint don't give consistent finish. You'll definitely need multiple layers of paint with the marker, while waiting each layer to dry completely(few hours to be safe) before painting the next layer

QUOTE(naruko85 @ Dec 16 2012, 01:22 AM)
Then if i spray paint the runners in the beginning, then cut off the parts, remove the nip/nub marks (worst case is sanding with 1000 or above sandpaper).

1. Will the sanding damage the paint before?
2. What if after that i top coat it with flat one. Will the paint still damaged?

Thanks again~
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yes of course the paint will be scratched, and even with 2000 grit sandpaper you still risk scraping off the paint entirely.
only using polishing compound is safe, but the purpose of using that is to polish smooth your paint surface, not to remove nub marks.

and even though you can remove nub marks safely without damaging the paint, you'll still need to paint the areas with nub mark again, which costs you time.
which in the end you'll end up faster if you paint after removing the parts.

as for topcoat, I think the concern here is not whether the scratches on the paint can be covered or not, but whether you get a consistent finish of your paint or not
General_Nic
post Dec 16 2012, 12:57 PM

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QUOTE(naruko85 @ Dec 16 2012, 12:38 PM)
By the way, I heard saw it somewhere that can extract the paint from a spray can. So back to back can i do like this

1. Spray the whole runners
2. cut down parts and do sanding to clear nip/nub marks
3. extract the same paint out of the can
4. paint the extracted paint from can to cover the damaged painting due to sanding

Actually the reason that i wanted to paint on whole runner is to save the times of spray, I got a lung inflation a few months ago and since then, my respiratory organ are very sensitive. So i would like to avoid inhale the stuff from the spray can, less spraying = less inhalation of it.

Or it is better to stick all parts on a foam and spray it after removing the nip/nub marks?
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reducing the duration of spraying doesn't reduce the toxicity you are exposed to
the best solution is to get a painting booth & a proper painting mask

This post has been edited by General_Nic: Dec 16 2012, 12:57 PM
General_Nic
post Dec 24 2012, 10:23 PM

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QUOTE(Raive93 @ Dec 24 2012, 02:15 PM)
thx bro~

I know that hardware sandpaper are cheaper than tamiya's, but I sure that tamiya's are cheaper than those nail buffer.
On small parts, i normally leave a little nub then sand it with 600 grit, then use nail buffer to water sand it to make it smoother.
On larger parts, i ll clean the nub with design knives then sand with 600 grit and nail buffer too.
i just finish building MG 00 Qant's body, so far it is still not that tight, so i didnt cut the peg, because most peg are small or short one

oh ya, one more thing for now

1. what about the stickers? If i am gonna paint the kit later then that means I cant apply any decal right? then what about the eyes?
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you sure nail buffers are that expensive? you can easily find 1 with minimum 3 grits at less than Rm10, some even less than Rm5
if not can get from Daiso at Rm5

as for eyes, are you going to paint it?
if you are not going to paint it, of course you need to use sticker, or you want a clear part as eyes?
if you are going to paint it, why paint over a sticker?
General_Nic
post Jan 23 2013, 04:21 PM

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QUOTE(shauno @ Jan 23 2013, 02:50 PM)
maybe can try in berjaya time sq? level 7 there is a shop, hobbys and toys if i'm not wrong, and level 5 also has a few places selling paint and some tools. time machine is one of them at level 5, inside the IT center
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Level 5 one already shifted to Level 1 tongue.gif

QUOTE(sai86 @ Jan 23 2013, 03:12 PM)
okie. will scout at the GA at level 7. level 5 IT center is new to me biggrin.gif tqvm for the info.
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the shop in Level 5 has shifted to Level 1, and it sells very limited paints or none at all
try the Level 2 one, just right above this Level 1 shop, it has lots of Mr Hobby paints, not sure if got Tamiya paints
General_Nic
post Feb 9 2013, 01:36 PM

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QUOTE(sekngucing @ Feb 9 2013, 01:31 PM)
between lacquer and acrylic paint, which one is better? for tamiya
-i saw mr hobby product is quite costly. if i didnt find any thinner for my tamiya acrylics, then its waste for my money, i bought quite lots of paint laaa sad.gif
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Tamiya has only acrylic and enamel, while Mr. Hobby has acrylic and aqueous lacquer(acrylic paint with lacquer properties)
General_Nic
post Mar 7 2013, 08:26 PM

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QUOTE(steph13 @ Mar 7 2013, 07:57 PM)
was just wondering possible to get those titanium finish by handbrushing?

So far i have only tried acrlic paints. e.g. silver and gun metal. and tried painting them on inner frame and weapons (guns). somehow it just come out flat normal and not those glossy shiny look that it's resemble metal or steel.

Any help? isit bcoz need a glossy top coat?

thx
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you need to polish the surface with compound wink.gif
General_Nic
post Mar 7 2013, 08:31 PM

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QUOTE(steph13 @ Mar 7 2013, 08:27 PM)
errrr. tamiya compound? haha. polish after or before?
*
here's the breakdown of steps:
1) paint gloss black(to obtain a shinier silver)
2) polish
3) paint silver
4) polish
5) paint clear paint(if you are making titanium colour)
6) polish
General_Nic
post Mar 8 2013, 12:27 AM

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QUOTE(steph13 @ Mar 7 2013, 11:43 PM)
will definately try this outt. thxx. anyway polish using tamiya compound?
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yupe biggrin.gif
General_Nic
post Mar 8 2013, 12:42 AM

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QUOTE(sekngucing @ Mar 8 2013, 12:30 AM)
the tamiya compound can be used on any kind of paint? acrylics? enamel? lacquer?
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it can be use on any paint, even on bare plastic
because it's a liquid sandpaper, it doesn't dissolve any paint, jz sanding, or polishing to be exact
General_Nic
post Mar 13 2013, 05:18 PM

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best advantage of Gaia over Mr Hobby for me, lacquer vs aqueous lacquer thumbup.gif
General_Nic
post Mar 13 2013, 09:00 PM

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QUOTE(shauno @ Mar 13 2013, 05:40 PM)
bro, mr hobby also has a lacquer line..  nod.gif
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ya I knew, but it's rare and is much more expensive than Gaia, no?
General_Nic
post Mar 14 2013, 12:02 AM

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QUOTE(shauno @ Mar 13 2013, 11:21 PM)
on the contrary, mr hobby's lacquer line is more common than gaia. you can get mr hobby lacquer at bts, at time machine and hobbies and toyz, but not gaia. in fact, the only places i know which carry gaia are icw and tkting (online shops not withstanding)
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but those selling at Time Machine are aqueous lacquer(except the Mr Metal series), i did buy them before
General_Nic
post Mar 29 2013, 01:06 PM

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I would like to know, can Zippo fluid substitute enamel thinner for hand painting?
General_Nic
post Mar 29 2013, 01:27 PM

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QUOTE(shauno @ Mar 29 2013, 01:21 PM)
can. but i find that zippo dries very fast, and if you have excess paint which you want to use the next day, you can't "rehydrate" the paint with zippo fluid.

hope i make sense on the second part  sweat.gif
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once dried/hardened, it stays that way, right?
General_Nic
post May 14 2013, 11:52 AM

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QUOTE(OhNooy @ May 13 2013, 11:57 PM)
Does the mark setter useful for dry decal(sticker type)? Need the mark softener to apply during finishing?
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first, sticker is sticker, dry/rub transfer decal is the one that needs to rub on the surface with toothpick

both also don't require any solution, nor does it make any difference when applied
General_Nic
post Jun 17 2013, 11:26 AM

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I need advise, PG Wing Zero Custom's waist has a piece of red part that's made of bendable rubber material
when assemble it needs to be flexible and able to bend in order to put it in
how do I paint it or what I need to do to prevent paint from cracking/chipping?
General_Nic
post Jun 19 2013, 05:01 PM

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QUOTE(wookp @ Jun 19 2013, 04:14 PM)
Hi Sifus,

I currently working on an astray blue and I am planning to use a gold marker for panel lining. How do you remove the excess gold marker? Unlike the black panel marker, you can remove it with an eraser. To further add in, I have already custom colored the surface with Tamiya Gun Metal. I saw on a blog that you can remove the excess with the paint remover; however won't this remove my base paint as well?
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which marker will u be using?
if you use Artline marker, you can remove it using WD40 pen icon_rolleyes.gif
General_Nic
post Jun 20 2013, 12:31 PM

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QUOTE(wookp @ Jun 19 2013, 08:44 PM)
I am using the gundam gold marker.
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not sure if Gundam Marker Eraser works without removing your base paint hmm.gif
if can't, the other option would be using markers from stationary shops like Artline, Sharpie, etc
it's cheaper than Gundam Marker, and more bling bling, plus can remove using WD40 easily without ruining your base paint icon_rolleyes.gif

QUOTE(mazaziman @ Jun 20 2013, 10:40 AM)
you can use mr. paint remover.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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he did mention he knew about this but it will remove his base paint lol
General_Nic
post Jun 21 2013, 10:33 PM

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this thread needs a V2~
VincC454?
General_Nic
post Jun 24 2013, 10:12 PM

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QUOTE(wookp @ Jun 24 2013, 07:49 AM)
Hmm... Where did you guys buy the wd40 pen? I tried using sharpie and wd40 (cotton swab). Ended up removing everything! =_=''

Any videos or tutorial I can view for this? Maybe technique wrong.
*
maybe the spray can WD40 is too strong sad.gif
I got the pen from Ace Hardware

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