LightJunk, superb collection!

This might be just the light I was looking for, but we'll see...

DST TLR Titanium AA

This post has been edited by strinq: Jan 13 2010, 10:51 AM

GB GB ... if the price is right

Mr. Prez this one u will like, it got a clip




This post has been edited by damonlbs: Jan 13 2010, 11:00 AM

pseudoblue, alantch...thank you. My first, which still existed was the A2 Aviator. My real first was a Maglite 3D using original bulb. It was stolen at work.

This post has been edited by LightJunk: Jan 13 2010, 11:44 AM

Just did a quick mod last night on my KL6, replacing the Lux V with an MC-E LED wired in 2S2P config. Driver remains stock. It's much brighter now and a donut hole can be seen in the beam at close distances when white-walling.

Before and after comparison pics. Exposure settings are kept the same for all images.

Beamshots : Before / After


Ceiling bounce : Before and after

Hey, how's your Quark Ti holding up, is the quality, body good?

I'm still most impressed with the LF2XT natural anondized. It seems to hold up very well in your pocket full of keys still!

Regarding the current draw results, it's correct that with li-ion it shows as 690mA vs 2000mA. It is because the li-ion's voltage (4.2) is higher than nimh's (1.2-1.3). It seems that it has a buck-boost circuit


haha, i luv the clip but I have concern with Ti being as EDC, seems to scratch easily more. And don't intend for shelf queen much


Flashlight also can get stolen? The person must be a flashaholic, whom must deserve some bezel strike experience

Lightjunk


Wow...Maglite Digital Camo..did u source that locally? DigiCamo and Copper are quite hard to find, copper is even harder...any chance i can get you to send me a Digi camo if its local source?

Don't know if this is something new to you guys, but i charged 2 x RCR123 and ended up with 1 charged to 4.3v and the other 4.2v, checked it on a multimeter.

Poped it in the flashlight and after a few minutes ran it back on the multimeter and both now run at 3.9v, later did another reading and both read 3.7 on the dot. Seem like the V equalize after running...

I thought the 4.3v would have extra juice than the 4.2v coz it has more V...thats sth new to me...

This post has been edited by metalmania: Jan 13 2010, 12:22 PM

Here is the official introduction to my current collection together with specs.



From left to right (Rear)

1. FM 2C body, Surefire M2-BK head & Moddoo Triple R2 4-18V drop in runs by 2 AW IMR26500
2. FM 1C body, Surefire M2-BK head & Nailbender's SST-50 3 level 3-6V drop in runs by 1 AW IMR26500
3. Surefire M6 Scalloped Bezel (LF IMR-3T & LF IMR-M6 lamps, mdocod 2X18650 & 3X17670 battery holders)
4. Surefire M6 CB (MN20, MN21 & MB20 battery holder) (FM bi pin, WA1111 & WA1185 bulbs on the way)
5. Dual bored 2P 18650 Mag 1.25D host & SST-90 DD with d2flex runs by 2 AW IMR18650

From left to right (Front)

1. Fenix TK10 XR-E Q5
2. Nitecore Extreme R2 - my EDC
3. Surefire A2-HA-WH - my first Surefire
4. Surefire 6P bored to fit 18650 cell & Nailbender's Diamond Dragon drop in
5. Mini Mag - stock

Finally at the front most

Digi Camo Mag 3D Triple P7 DSVNI using 4 AW IMR26500 with Der Witchel P7 driver 4-20V

Almost forget, the rear most

Pelican Case 1400

LightJunk

---

Added on January 13, 2010, 2:57 pmHi,

I got mine from here. PM him for your request. Reasonable price too.

RCR123 off the charger will give you between 4.2 to 4.3V range. Once used, it will drop to 3.7. You have both at 3.7V. That means your batteries are good. Maybe battery sifoo can elaborate further. Hope this helps.

Cheers,
LightJunk

This post has been edited by LightJunk: Jan 13 2010, 03:14 PM

LightJunk,
I think you should use this,

FM 1C body, Surefire M2-BK head & Nailbender's SST-50 3 level 3-6V drop in runs by 1 AW IMR26500

as your EDC.

Hi guys, not an expert, just like to share what I know.

Li-on battery should not charge above 4.2V, even if 0.5V will cause the life cycle of the battery to be shorten. (LiFePO4 does not have very big effect if 0.5V) If overheat syndrome present, it could be a dangerous sign before it exploded.

So, make sure your multimeter is accurate, if yes, then you have a charger that not very accurate. Does your battery is a protected type? This mean the protection circuit does not work very well, should cut charging before 2.5V. Because over charge may cause the battery to over heat.

Li-on working voltage is 3.7V, meaning when you run your flashlight, it will pulled down to 3.7V working voltage, but when you off the flashlight, it will rebound to above 3.7V (the resting voltage).

Generally when your battery resting voltage reach 3.7V, it means the battery is low in charge, should charge it. But during the usage of battery, it can go as low as 2.75V before the battery run out of charge.

I also notice many protected cell has high rate of self discharge due to the protection circuit working around the clock, even you do not put them in the flashlight.

Personally, I prefer to use LiFePO4 instead of Li-on, because it has less prone to the over charge/discharge, but it has about half the capacity of li-on

The KISS (keep it simple and stupid)
Li-on Battery should never charge to above 4.2V
The working/nominal voltage is 3.7 or 3.6 means then voltage when its under load (using it)
Resting voltage 3.7 or below means it need charging.
3.7-4.2V roughly shows the capacity of charge from 0% to 100%
Run the battery below 2.75V or charge it above the 4.2V will damage the battery. (If you are using protected cell, it should prevent this from happen)
Use a accurate multimeter if you use it for li-on measurement, most of the time you need to calibrate the multimeter. I calibrate mine myself.

That's the alternative to my Nitecore. I carry both in the bag but Nitecore will always be primary. Good throw for a small light.

---

Added on January 13, 2010, 3:19 pmWell put. Thanks.

This post has been edited by LightJunk: Jan 13 2010, 03:19 PM

I never EDC it without the holster (but i actually rarely EDC anything except for the lf2xt.

It's ano is crazy good. Not only the keys, i've dropped it so many times already (i think at least 20?) and all about from about 1m to concrete/tiles.
Just a slight dent on the head area and extremely slight ano wear. Mad.

This is my understanding of Li-Ions:

To clarify, the LiFePO4 are Li-Ions. All the rechargeable lithium-based batteries are lithium ions, just that they use different chemistries. The "normal" ones which most use (with the protection circuits) are Lithium Cobalt 3.7V chemistry, potentially explosive. The LiFePO4s are a 3V chemistry, but will not explode. I don't believe that they are less prone to overcharging/discharging - in fact, as they don't have a protection circuit, one could accidentally over-discharge or overcharge them. The only difference is that they are generally more "rugged" and can take more abuse without catastrophic failure. (As can be seen in AW's thread - submerging it in water)

Similarly, I've started to grow fond of my IMR Li-ons, which are also Li-Ions, but use Lithium Manganese. They are 3.7V, and are a safe (non-explosive) chemistry. They are very similar to the LiFePO4s but they hold a bit more charge (550mAh) and can withstand EXTREME discharge currents while still maintaining a good voltage level. But I have to watch them - to make sure I don't accidentally discharge them.

At a 1amp discharge rate, you have the following capacities:
[CR123 Non-rechargeable] Li-MnO2: 1473mAh @ 2.15V_average: 3.170Wh Edit: Sorry, used the wrong values just now
[RCR/ICR] Li-Co 16340: 419mAh @ 3.25V_average: 1.363Wh
[IMR] Li-Mn 16340: 515mAh @ (ESTIMATE!) 3.5V_average: 1.777Wh (ESTIMATE!)
LiFePO4 16340: 500mAh @ (ESTIMATE!) 2.95V_average: 1.475Wh (ESTIMATE!)

Sources:
SilverFox's 123 battery shootout
SilverFox's Li-Ion battery shootout
AW's IMR16340 test
AW's LiFePO4 test

This post has been edited by hoongern: Jan 13 2010, 03:45 PM

OK got it..Digi Camo is nice

LightJunk

beamshot plz

LightJunk:

Nice collection!

Yea you are right, but I think susuman meant that the chemistry is more stable with a little overcharge/discharge compared with lithium cobalt

*I'll be adding both of your info (post link) in the batt section



Just to add some observations:
Are you charging using WF-139? They are two versions of it that I know off, the older one will bound to charge more than 4.2v depending on the internal resistance of the battery. Basically, both charging terminals are individually monitored, so they will work differently depending on battery temp and age. My WF-139 charger so far has been charging and terminate @4.2v, sometimes I read more than that but I blame my DMM, it doesn't read very accurately sometimes, but sufficient for my general needs. So to your question and experience, I think it's normal. The more expensive chargers may handle a wider selection of Li-ION batteries and terminate accurately and without trickle charge.

Regarding your voltage equalization, I have this experience as well even with NiMH, but their voltage differences are all not too far apart off the charger, about 1-2%. I cannot explain the technically part on this.


hehe, i love those FM bodies!!

Question, what's the brightness comparison in your eyes for LF IMR-M6 vs Surefire MN21? Is this be the right comparison? hehe

I think the one i have is the new one, it charges to 4.2V, i rarely leave the battery charging unattended. I use a program timer to charge, rarely does it reach 4.2, but since i'm using RCR123 to power up a 9v xenon i charge it to 4.2. LF SP-6 can fit 2 CR123 so got the V to 8.4V just slightly below the 9V limit for the xenon.

I think as far as charging goes , timer is a cheaper and safer option, can program to 1 hour intervals allowing cooling. I usually set it an hour and check with DMM, then charge another hour and check.

As for the charger i think its fine, don't need a better charger , you cam mod a RC charger which is very advance but cost can be high..but very do-able. There are many site's with step by step, perhaps i will leave that mod for a later day.

This is a good one to mod - http://www.rcplanet.com.my/webshaper/store...roductItem=3939
Considering the amount of batteries needed and flashlights, i think this is a worthy mod.


Just want to share one tip, if anyone is using 52mm plastic lens and wish to upgrade to glass lens with coating you can use 55mm camera lens filter, coating is entirely up to you or you can get UCL lens... The lens in the picture is an old rosak lens filter, it has blotches..so can use on my Maglite D Cell, no more scratch on the lens...i also have Boro Lens and UCL . The filter lens is 52mm X 1.9mm

The picture is Maglite D cell bezel :-







This post has been edited by metalmania: Jan 13 2010, 05:20 PM

2x RCR123 is save for your LF 9V xenon (SR/HO-9?). I'm using 2x IMR 18500. No issue with insta flash, and healthy for your Xenon hahaha (but you need an extender or SP-9 body).. and I think 2x IMR 18650 should be fine too

Btw, are you using a program timer with a dialer type? That's a good idea actually. Have one working that'll switch the lights on outside and switches it off automatically in the morn.

Charging with timer is a splendid idea....there is no trickle charge definitely...and you can manage your charging to you daily schedule...
Experiment and experience will give you a good idea how many minutes needed to charge or full charge from flat...

Digital timer :- http://www.mudah.my/7-Days-Digital-Timer-4702491.htm

Analogue :- http://www.mudah.my/Programme-Timer-Socket...asa-4010447.htm

Cheap considering battery coat more

I'm using a digital timer and the lights for my turtle i use dial..turtle need light to bask they also lumen freak too..hahaa

remember to gauge your timer with stop watch to make sure its on que..i have few timers that are off..that god the turtles didn't fry. By the way the turtle's name is Flash and 17 years old Star Turtle...should i register LYN acc for him?

Lightjunk this picture is for you, finally able to upload the maglite cap mod

This post has been edited by metalmania: Jan 13 2010, 05:41 PM