this 1?
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=213454

Who who? link?

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Added on February 2, 2010, 3:00 pmWwowoow.. JAMES! GRATS! M6 + M4! The priced offered is very very good.

This post has been edited by pseudoblue: Feb 2 2010, 03:00 PM

I should have been working, but I'm busy doing my shopping.

Congrat James.

I will blame my friends for getting me into a longer lunch. Now see, what happened ......

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Added on February 2, 2010, 3:18 pmHa...ha.. it work ......

This post has been edited by Striderman: Feb 2 2010, 03:18 PM

Zenith, I am in agreement with pseudoblue's advise i.e. keep the M6 while considering other options for it. I know what you mean when you say the size doesn't match with it's brightness. I was once also in the same shoes as you. Take it as part of the learning process. Lesson learned : multi-emitter lights are not throwers in the general sense. They pump out a tremendous amount of light no doubt but it you're more of a throw guy (like me), that light will feel dim. So here's my advise : Meet up with an M6 owner (you know who ... the one who has the most M6s here ) and run thru some of the configurations and see if you like a particular setup. I'm sure after this exercise you'll go incand with the M6 and chuck the P7 head. BUT should you should find that the output is still not up to your liking, then perhaps the M6 is not for you.

Zenith, actually I like standard M6 with MN21 lamp assembly. The throw, the spill, the hot spot are really to my taste. I don't know how to describe it. Maybe alantch can describe it.

James has the fastest shopping hand, ahahaha, congrats. So you got both , wah!

M4 looks nice to me, like Jetbeam M1X form factor.

No need to describe ... just show it to him la.

ok..ok...la sifu.

Eh ... I no sifu la. Just a suggestion to help out a fellow flashaholic.

Here's a nice reference: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=3262050

Note the camera is zoomed in. Distance is from 420 feet. I know the performance of Eagletac M2XC4 and those incan setups are really something. MN21 included.





Btw, Striderman, you're in Kajang right? Perhaps when the southern guys meet again can call you to come along with your M6s Zenith can meet us there too. From Ampang, can take the MRR2 highway to Seri Kembangan.

Congratulations James. That M4 was really a good deal. Ebay selling those for $200++. One expensive lunch you have there .

Zenith, keep the M6 and get yourself FM MN bi pin and a few bulbs. PM FM, he'll be glad to sell you the bulbs together with the MN bi pin. That's what I did. WA1111 & WA1185 bulbs are good enough. As for me, the WA1111 is the best.

pseudoblue, fantastic find.

Zenith, the output of the 1185 in the M6 will be similar in output to the Mag85 with 3 AW C cells in the above rotating GIF albeit with a shorter runtime. Awesome output.

It's on 2x18650. But very true..

I think the reason I didnt have the wow factor because i have not really seen its FULL potential in pitch darkness.
Here in the semi litted environment, flood lights do not really get their shot at glory i think

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Added on February 2, 2010, 5:22 pmHmm.. I think I will keep the P7 first.. Im not actually a lumen crazy guy.. But maybe before I bought the P7 i expected it to be a kinda blasting lumens compared to my humble E1B and 6PDL (80 lumens)

Not to say i don like the P7 but it was not wat i expected. I think I would love it once i really tried it in the forest

This post has been edited by Zen|th: Feb 2 2010, 05:22 PM

Ok guys.. before all that..

I have a HUGE problem with my P7. I was being curious so i jsut put my M6+P7 into the pail of water for about 20 seconds.

And when I took it out, there was not only vapour in the lens but a POOL of water!!
So i opened every connection, re-lubed it and tested it again..

THis time for only 10 seconds while shaking it in water... Same thing.. Water seeped in and there was still a pool of water.

Here are some pics of it







After having a good look at it.. I think the problem is here.. the o-rings below the lens is not in position..
Have a close look to it and u might see what i mean. Could someone help me out with this?? I cant seem to separate the reflector from the lens.







If u can see, on the relfector there is some water mark.. I do not know how to wipe them. HELP!!

Could I bring it to someone's house?? Then i could see how its done...?

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Added on February 2, 2010, 5:32 pmWow.. thanks man!

I think slowly im beginning to see the different view of my P7.. Cause initially i aso wanted something with a decent runtime and something bright. So i believe the P7 fits the criteria..

MAybe i was too hasty in judging the infamous P7.. haha

This post has been edited by Zen|th: Feb 2 2010, 05:36 PM

Lol. I dunno if thermal protection works or not but over-discharge definitely does.

That day ShinnX put a dead battery in and it lit up, flickered then turned off.




Regarding the MiNi's heat on li-ions

Quark 123 Mini_High_________200__turn-on_____________1XIMR16340_________________________ ________,
Quark 123 Mini_High_________192__60 sec_____________1XIMR16340________________________ _________,
Quark 123 Mini_High_________190__120 sec____________1XIMR16340_________________________ ________,

Tested by MrGman.

Using CREE's datasheet, 190L is 95% of 200L, which we shall assume to be 25ºC junction temp.
For the output to drop to 95%, the junction temp should now be between 40 - 45 ºC.
That's after 2 mins. So dun worry about the 1 min will degrade your LED nonesense. =D

As to how long you can use it b4 it overheats, no one knows. Haha. =D Use with extreme caution.

The heatsinking of the MiNi appears to be excellent but there is simply not enough material to keep all that heat. =(

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Added on February 2, 2010, 5:40 pmI'd suggest looking for the person you bought it from. =D

This post has been edited by polkiuj: Feb 2 2010, 05:40 PM

Haha.. I called Philightsophy. .He said if I could have it done by another KL enthusiast I could just send it over. Cause if i were to send it back to him it might take time. But no worries.. Im open to any suggestions

Zenith, look at Metalmania's post here = http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=31241150

Noticed how the head can be opened? Try that and fix your o-ring position.

Yeah, I think the AW Thermal protection refer to the vent where it separate the cathode when on extreme heat (before explosion), hence a protection, but like fuse, it rendered the battery unusable after the Thermal Protection kicks in.

Still, I don't think AW or other battery manufacturer implement a thermal protection for light, eg : cut supply when LED or body or battery reach 70C (like CPU). It is possible, but just not see any one yet.

But I heard surefire has thermal protection in the driver, but also hear-says, nothing in concrete hope it is true. Afterall, if we burnt the LED, they have to replace it , haha.

Hmm that's very true.. I wonder how he did it.. It seems real tight