QUOTE(Kul | Mo0 @ Nov 4 2009, 12:25 AM)
@.@ moo got 135?!!??! hehehehehehehe kiddingPhotography The Sony Alpha Thread V33!, The Orange Legion
Photography The Sony Alpha Thread V33!, The Orange Legion
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Nov 4 2009, 12:33 AM
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#81
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Elite
3,928 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak |
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Nov 4 2009, 12:34 AM
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#82
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Elite
3,928 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak |
albnok one is minolta 50mm F1.4, not tamron kakakakaa
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Nov 4 2009, 12:36 AM
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#83
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Elite
3,928 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak |
for those who thinks A200/300 focusing system is terrible, or tamron so called 3rd party lens, and lenses that make ur machine works below par performance.
and u arent me, so u wont know how i feel. my camera have backfocus problem since DAY 1, send to sony centre twice, they DID NOTHING.... nothing i focus ever is in focus. but due to practise, i manage to use my head/mind and body to compasate it, by adjusting my body everytime i shoot, to get accurate focus. maybe because, u guys been playing with good accurate machine this while, thus u may had set the "margin" of performance at a little higher, thus a small misfocus or problem, u think ur camera is not up to it. for me, i brought a faulty body. sony didnt fix it for me. so i live with a terrible result, thus i created a low performance 'margin' so everytime i shoot something resulting sharp and nice, i am very happy and think that the camera is doing it's best. 2 week ago, thanks to CLIVENGU who guide me to open up my camera and tweak/calibrate it. now everything i shoot is accurate, even without flash attach for its illuminator. this is a miracle, the machine perform wayyyyyy better then expected. wayyy pass my old 'margin' now my camera felt like a new A310, replacement for my A300 with more accurate focus!. "cover my eye to shoot also sharp like needles." |
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Nov 4 2009, 12:38 AM
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#84
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Elite
3,928 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak |
QUOTE(lildaredevil906 @ Nov 4 2009, 12:35 AM) no la .. albnok brought the 135mm cz.. power i tell u.. minolta F1.4 mike: albnoks is a minolta 50mm 1.7 i think nvm got fast response =P This post has been edited by ieR: Nov 4 2009, 12:40 AM |
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Nov 4 2009, 12:39 AM
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#85
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Elite
3,928 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak |
mikeshashimi: i bet u felt intimated by A700 and 900... last time i joined the TT, i'm like, hide my camera in my bag only....
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Nov 4 2009, 12:41 AM
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#86
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Elite
3,928 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak |
QUOTE(lildaredevil906 @ Nov 4 2009, 12:39 AM) LOL.. ya clive was telling us.. eh.. have fun with ur new calibrated toy =P i wont say sharp, because sharpness depends on DOF... u wan sharp, F8... hahahahawhat u said kinda made me curious.. attaching flash to use the iluminator? do u get sharp results? but i think the answer to ur question is, "it's more accurate". |
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Nov 4 2009, 12:43 AM
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#87
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Elite
3,928 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak |
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Nov 4 2009, 12:44 AM
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#88
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Elite
3,928 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak |
post post post, let us who didnt made it to TT see ur faces~~~
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Nov 4 2009, 12:49 AM
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#89
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Elite
3,928 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak |
QUOTE(lwliam @ Nov 4 2009, 12:46 AM) Ladies and gentlemen, i've got updates from Photography Bay (normally pics and rumors/news that come out here, so far have came true nearly 80% of the time) so see if it really is... urg, i think it will be improved to par like D300 range, a very strong APS-C body, far superior then A550. perhaps 53 AF point? hahaha so kiasu already...you decide » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « why it would come out with another This post has been edited by ieR: Nov 4 2009, 12:52 AM |
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Nov 4 2009, 12:58 AM
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#90
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Elite
3,928 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak |
A100? mike?
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Nov 4 2009, 12:59 AM
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#91
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Elite
3,928 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak |
mike, revenge, i am sure the photo above show that u shoot other people too. post post post..
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Nov 4 2009, 01:32 AM
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#92
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Elite
3,928 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak |
u focus on wrong area? and try using F2.0 or F2.5, at such distance, the DOF is very shallow for F1.4
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Nov 4 2009, 01:42 AM
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#93
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Elite
3,928 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak |
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Nov 4 2009, 01:46 AM
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#94
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Elite
3,928 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak |
i think my turn to dilemma in which UWA is the most valueable to buy... >.< signma tamron SAL? sighhh or buy a 2k ring for gf....
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Nov 4 2009, 02:11 AM
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#95
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Elite
3,928 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak |
QUOTE(achew @ Nov 4 2009, 01:50 AM) if only so....if i get ur gf a 2k ring, she gonna get me a body same like urs? Tainted: grab 50mm F1.8 (if u not planning for FF) for its 50mm, and F1.8 is enough, save the extra money to grab other lens... if u are bokeh freak, u can aim 70200F2.8 |
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Nov 4 2009, 09:31 AM
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#96
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Elite
3,928 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak |
Albnok: (sorry bout yesterday, phone batt died suddenly) i did not say only sony, i am just showing that how sony having the 2nd mirror to send to the sensor down below. many ppl assumed the AF sensor is the main sensor @.@ or on top of the OVF or somewhere else
well for the 2.8 > 3.5 i taken that (now i have to read all 8 page before to find out who said 2.8 is double the brightness of 5.6)... so assuming 2.8 is double the brightness of 5.6, how could it be 70% to F3.5? (but i'd admit that i gotten the wrong info on 2.8>F5.6 is double the light) and i need you to clarify this, does F2.8 helps in lowlight in A200/300? taken point in that, at 18mm F3.5 vs 18mm F2.8. |
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Nov 4 2009, 09:49 AM
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#97
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Elite
3,928 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak |
QUOTE(wuszhtag @ Nov 4 2009, 09:27 AM) someone is selling minolta 50mm 1.7 in gara sales for RM450 best price with no rear cap. does it worth to get? minolta is FF lens or its better to add another few bucks(or hundred) and get sony 50mm 1.8 instead? no rear cap means the dust can enter the leans easily rite?thanks the rear cap is just, when u are not using the lens, (on the table, cupboard, drawer or drybox) it doesnt has a cap to cover the rear from dust etc. but u can grab a new rear cap from lelong or (shops, freelance seller from photomalaysia) for the rear cap for about rm30++. |
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Nov 4 2009, 12:15 PM
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#98
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Elite
3,928 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak |
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Nov 4 2009, 12:17 PM
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#99
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Elite
3,928 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak |
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Nov 4 2009, 12:18 PM
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#100
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Elite
3,928 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak |
QUOTE(clivengu @ Nov 4 2009, 03:50 AM) Hahaha. is amazing right? is like suddenly from 1.0cc Kancil bcome Honda Civic 2.0cc! Power up! Every pictures seems Useable & worth keeping! yup, like A300 MKII hahahaAdded on November 4, 2009, 12:19 pm QUOTE(weixuan @ Nov 4 2009, 11:25 AM) really? wahahha then get from sony, i always tot simple accesories like those cost a bomb from sony.Added on November 4, 2009, 12:34 pm QUOTE(albnok @ Nov 4 2009, 11:43 AM) ieR: F2.8 to F5.6 is TWO stops! That means 4x the light. *faints* i am never good with maths... hahaha, so, like u mentioned, a 56% increasement, does it really help? if light is a full scale of 1(i dont know how to scale light). lowlight means 0.1, 56% = 0.15? does that really help? the 0.05 up...Okay let's say in the dark: 50mm F2.8 has a physical aperture of 50mm/2.8 = 17.8571mm. The surface area is (17.8571/2)^2*pi = 79.719mm2*3.14156 = 250.44mm2 50mm F3.5 has a physical aperture of 50mm/3.5 = 14.2857mm. The surface area is (14.2857/2)^2*pi = 51.02mm2*3.14156 = 160.28mm2 50mm F4.0 has a physical aperture of 50mm/4.0 = 12.5000mm. The surface area is (12.5000/2)^2*pi = 39.0625mm2*3.14156 = 122.72mm2 250mm2 / 160mm2 = 1.56 Thus the difference is 56% more between F2.8 and F3.5. The difference is around 104% between F2.8 and F4.0 but this is not precise. Why? F2.8 is not really F2.80000; it is SQRT(8) or F2.8284271. All full aperture stops are square roots of multiples of 2: F1.0 F1.4 F2.0 F2.8 F4.0 F5.6 F8.0 F11 F16 squared: F1.0 F2.0 F4.0 F8.0 F16 F32 F64 F128 F256 Which is also: 2^0 2^1 2^2 2^3 2^4 2^5 2^6 2^7 2^8 How about half stops or one-third stops? 2^0 2^0.3333 2^0.6666 2^1 2^0 2^0.5 2^1 2^1.5 2^2 Alternatively, let's see what true aperture numbers are: SQRT(1) SQRT(2) SQRT(4) SQRT(8) SQRT(16) SQRT(32) square roots: F1.0 F1.4142 F2.0 F2.8284 F4.0 F5.6569 Braynumb: Do you want full frame or not? Are you prepared with FF lenses? also so that that mean when u gotten more then 0.5scale of light(room with lights), 56% is like boost to 0.75, thus more light is always a big help? so how would be the conclusion @.@ F2.8 helps in daylight but near to nothing at lowlight? but the main question is, (not how much light does it really comes from F2.8 to F5.6) does F2.8 helps on A2/3/330/550 in lowlight? (to answer the people with these question, and my own answer still a NO) again, i shoot very well in the dark because everytime i shoot, i try target something with contrast, not plain flat surface in the dark. something obviously shows black to white, thus i always archive proper focus when i dont mount my flash, if i have my flash, i dont even think focus was the problem. *edit: so this is the technique for the people to learn to improve shooting technique at night. and not forgetting the source of this discussion, worth to upgrade to 16105 from 1750. 16105. hmmm... (for those who still owns a A300 or similiar series, that yet to upgrade to 550 or 700 or 850) but i could state this very well, because my uncle owns a cz1680, and and i play with it often, i made a conclusion, although CZ is higher in apperture, it focus hunt better then 1750, because of the coating that improves contrast which help in focusing. (wayyyyy better) so for those who wans to upgrade from 1750 to CZ, yes it is possible worth your money. but some people just need that F2.8 even at daytime. and CZ might suffer from slow shutter at lowlight iether way. your pick. This post has been edited by ieR: Nov 4 2009, 12:44 PM |
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