guys...i wanna ask u guys sumting...when when i take pics indoor...under the light...when my camera point directly to the light..where the is few lines on my lcd??

no offence bro, but boleh RTFM tak lol.

most of the questions u ask is already inside the manual.

how to increase sharpness, saturation, all the manual got teach.

and the vertical lines appearing when you point the cam at a bright light source is normal for a CCD sensor. it will appear in video/live view, but it won't appear in photos.

and no, lazy is not an excuse to not read the manual.

sometimes people prefer forum to allow discussion...where people from all over the world can share their opinions and answers...it is not always about the manual or about googling everything...

how do u feel if u ask people to review something u want to buy badly, and then fella give u www.f***inggoogleit.com...frustrating right...you just want that people to share his perspective or opinion right...

that is my 2cents...

well, most of the questions u asked are pretty basic. and honestly, they give a manual for a reason.

peace

LX3 fault den .......
keke

nope, its panasonic fault, or leica? cos they design and built LX3...



sorry, just joking, no offence

juz wana ask....version 2.0 users

if i dun reset back to factory settings ..... not much diff rite???
onli using A mode n M mode

This post has been edited by nomoredfox: Oct 7 2009, 09:54 AM

well, actually the reported bugs only affect on the Custom mode C1,C2.
im using iA and M mode all the time, nothing wrong with the firmware and camera after updated to Ver 2.0

ya...i saw tat too....juz to confirm
hopefully the new 2.1 will boost more ...LOL especially optical zoom ..at least 1 more x la....hahahaha

Nobody's fault hehehe its an acceptable issue of CCD sensors. You'll get bad 'flares' if you shoot up a high contrast and brightness background. But it will not show in the photos. Which is why most DSLR with LiveView have move up to CMOS sensors. The larger the sensor is, the worse 'flaring' you'll get. Its already bad on the LX3 and its sensor size is like what? Just 20% of 4/3 size?

And I don't know why CMOS sensors don't have this problem. Probably I should read about it. I do have a high-end Sony AVCHD camcorder using a CMOS sensor for video recording (a first in the industry?). Shoot it up at a high contract and brightness background, guess what? No flaring.

Don't think so lor... hehehe... cause optical zoom capability is hardware related. The firmware can only improve handling and operations performance. Of course it can also add features but still within the limits of the hardware. Perhaps they can add one more 1x on the digital zoom? Thats doable. But it'll have to strain the noise reduction capabilities. Guess they would have to improve on that first.

Personally I'm more concerned with the white balance and AF speed. The v2.0 seem to be more consistent now.

I agree exploring the manual is the best way to understand your camera more

Here's more resources to read up on why CCD sensors have that effect. Its called sensor blooming and it is a known issue only with CCD sensors. CMOS do not exhibit these properties.

http://www.awaiba.com/en/technology/
http://www.photonfocus.com/html/eng/cmos/c...chnologyEng.pdf
http://www.engineeringtalk.com/news/mlt/mlt106.html

So that basically concludes my explanation. CMOS sensors just don't bloom. Since LX3 uses CCD, we have this problem. It is important to note that this isn't really a big problem but rather an inconvenience during photo framing. And yes it ruins the experience.

me too, im more concern on the white balance as well. its terrible for the Ver1.3 AWB, some of my picture color all look red-ish or green-ish... always have to use Manual WB

I too agree we should be RTFM first before operating... Manual is not that thick anyways one round in the toilet and you will gain much more knowledge on your LX-3

However, Malaysia is a "spoon-fed" culture where ppl expect to be spoon fed the information then looking it up by themselves.

wow...very comprehensive ...hehehe
dis will spend me some time reading
v.sien now

im reading now, snake-ing in office

LOL what's up with the resentment from being asked to read the manual? It's the single most referred to document when it comes to trivial technical inquiries, esp when it's trivial. Google is next.

But I think fiddling with the buttons and controls is the best way to explore the camera. For guys with an attention span of <5 minutes, nothing beats wasting 1000 shutter counts to finally know the camera inside out.

Here are more documents which explains why CMOS is a better choice (depending on application) for fast cameras and live-view.

http://www.dvxuser.com/jason/CMOS-CCD/
http://www.turnkey-solutions.com.au/cam_%2..._technology.htm

Now we do know that a camera with live-view will have to operate the sensor at full time. This is where CMOS is a good choice because it is energy efficient. And because it does not require a lot of power to operate them, they operate cooler. If it operates cooler, noise is usually lesser. Imagine a full time CCD, you're gonna need a lot of 'cooling circuits'. Also CMOS scans and deposits information faster so it is very useful for highspeed cameras. And by high speed cameras, I don't mean those 1D, 1Ds, D3, D3x and the likes. I mean slow-mo cameras where they capture thousands of frames in a second.

This post has been edited by davidmak: Oct 7 2009, 11:03 AM

my cam already have 4000 shutter count in a month!

btw, wonder if they could include AVCHD encoding inside v2.1

Dear LX3 pros,
im currently looking for LX3 fish eye. any idea where can get? my friend say here got.. but find here find there also cannot find there topic.. pls help.. thank you.